Mark, don't throw $ toward anything BUT rotors and/or pads.  I've
replaced rotors and many times had to turn (re-surface) them to eliminate
the pulsating (the word many of us use--along with some of those
"not-so-proud-of words" you mentioned!).
   ALSO, since you have rear rotors, don't overlook them.  If you can
consistently narrow down the one culprit, as you felt it to be the right
front, then you don't have to work any more--just be around to ride with
mechanics/drivers and point out the only one that needs attention to make
brakes stop smoothly and truely!:)
No flaming intended at all.  Just wished to point out it's difficult to even
narrow down which "end" has bad, untrue stopping surfaces.  So, to check if
rears are contributing to pulsating, while driving about 45 on a dry,
smooth, uninhabited road, slowly apply the emergency/parking brake.  Don't
try to bring car to a stop using it, as the rear tires will lose traction so
quickly & make you lose control.  But, notice while braking w/it only
whether you feel the pulsating.  If so, they need trueing also.
........didn't think they would, but had to rule on it first.
   After rear is fixed, test drive and stop normally & see if pulsn. is
still present.  (If it was ok after emerg. br. test, continue to next step.)
    Have front (yes, even they are new) rotors trued/turned. Place pads
with braking surface down onto a level area of concrete--parking lot,
driveway, unpainted shop floor, any place with a surface which will allow
you to scrub them so as to rough their braking surface;  do this while you
let the flatness of the concrete guide the pads during this "truing" process
.  Continue until the surfaces have turned an even grayish color all over
the surface area. Replace and torque wheel lugs to mfg. specs.  This
torquing is very important.
   When you now drive the car, avoid quick-stops or riding the brake pedal
as you drive. Drive so as to keep the brakes as cool as possible for these
formative drives/stops.   In OLDER cars, one thing we were taught to do was
to "burn in" the new br. linings to mate them to the drum surfaces.  This
required just the opposite initial driving necessary with disc brakes!
   All said, yep, I assume your new rotors need trueing.  Got a carload (as
in "train-car") of drums in last year from China and had to use a drum lathe
to true all of them.  It was good $ but overly tiring, so the 3 of us took
turns (no pun intended) running that process.  One of us ultimately dropped
out--uh-oh, 'fraid I revealed which one!
   Don't fault the quality of rotors you got, as I've seen it on both
el-cheapos as well as oem's.  They're just like tires: I bo't 2 sets of
quality Michelins, one set on my dad's Caddy and 2nd set on wife's Caddy.
Both rode perfectly at all the speeds we drove BEFORE the new Mich's.  After
the dealer re-balanced them twice more, I saw some out of round.  Quit with
him & took both cars to old-timer who still had/used his tire-trueing
machine.  He trued and then rebalanced-------SEVEN of the eight-------and
regained the perfect ride it previously had.  Corresponded w/Michelin and
was advised the selling dealer did as expected--balance them only; true
none, as Michelin made NO untrue tire; and replace none, as all any tire
they retailed needed was nothing but balancing.  Guess what!  Since then,
Bridgestone has sold me about 50 sets of mostly-true tires and replaced
those untrue ones; Goodyear has sold me around 30-35 sets with almost all
perfectly rolling tires; and Western Auto has sold me, who knows, maybe
60-??? sets of unknown named tires with pretty metric treads.  These were
labeled to run about 30k miles; they actually gave about 55-65k miles.
Depending on size, most cost around $35 each--in years 1990-1996.
   Pardon my diversion.  BUT: hth.
sdlomi