On a 1995 Camaro Z28, let's say the windows are rolled down all the
way.
If I press the "up" button, the window will go up about halfway, then
it stops. If I press the up button again (immediately), the window
won't move. *But*, if I wait about 20-30 seconds, and press the up
button, the window will move up about one inch.
I have to continue this "wait 20-30 seconds, press the up button to
move the window up another inch, and so on", until the window
eventually goes up all the way.
It's as if I'm waiting on a capacitor to fill up; press the up button
and the power is released to the window motor, then the capacitor has
to be recharged. I'm sure this is not happening, but it sure acts like
it :)
Any ideas? Window motor going out? Both windows exhibit this odd
behavior. Both windows roll down as you would expect, in one
continuous motion.
* - 31 Oct 2007 15:46 GMT
calder.cay@gmail.com wrote in article
<1193838843.395999.99140@o38g2000hse.googlegroups.com>...
> On a 1995 Camaro Z28, let's say the windows are rolled down all the
> way.
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> behavior. Both windows roll down as you would expect, in one
> continuous motion.
You have something binding that is tripping the circuit breaker.
Start by lubricating the window channels with some silicone spray.
If that doesn't help, you might need to pull the door panel off and
lubricate the mechanisms.
Josh - 01 Nov 2007 04:08 GMT
> On a 1995 Camaro Z28, let's say the windows are rolled down all the
> way.
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> behavior. Both windows roll down as you would expect, in one
> continuous motion.
Failing motor. Extremely common on these cars. Bearings in the motor or bearings/gears in the gearhead (permanently attached to these motors) begin failing and binding, causing the motor to overheat, and temporarily tripping the internal breaker. After it cools a bit, it resets.
If you replace it, be sure to choose a better quality motor with a lifetime warranty. The camaro application is almost marginal for an electric motor because of the size and weight of the glass and hardware, and the tight space in which the motor must live. If you replace it yourself, follow the instructions very carefully. I've had to replace both passenger and driver motors in my '96 z28, and it's not hard, but you do need to be careful and follow the instructions to the letter (otherwise, it could be dangerous).
Good luck,
Josh
calder.cay@gmail.com - 01 Nov 2007 14:46 GMT
[snipped]
> Failing motor. Extremely common on these cars. Bearings in the motor or bearings/gears in the gearhead (permanently attached to these motors) begin failing and binding, causing the motor to overheat, and temporarily tripping the internal breaker. After it cools a bit, it resets.
>
> If you replace it, be sure to choose a better quality motor with a lifetime [snipped]
Thanks for the responses. I'm going to remove the panel tonight and
give it a look-see - I'll lube the channels and any other moving parts
just to see what happens. One thing I failed to mention - she's got
~150+K miles, so it wouldn't surprise me if the window motor is going
south.
Checking Rockauto, I show motors by: ACI, Dorman, Cardone Select (not
reman), ACDelco, without regulators ... ACDelco w/regulator. My local
Oreilly carries Dorman and Cardone. I also have a local [independent]
ACDelco parts house.
Comboverfish - 03 Nov 2007 03:59 GMT
On Nov 1, 8:46 am, calder....@gmail.com wrote:
> [snipped]
>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> Oreilly carries Dorman and Cardone. I also have a local [independent]
> ACDelco parts house.
Josh is right. You'll find the motor is bad. The Delco unit from the
dealer or aftermarket Delco/Delphi supplier will probably be made in
Mexico or somewhere similar, but I think the alternatives you've
mentioned will be the same quality or worse. The best deal overall
will probably be the Delco part from an independent parts house or
Rock Auto.
Toyota MDT in MO