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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / November 2007

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Removed Torque Converter (TC) w/Motor

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Joe - 05 Nov 2007 19:34 GMT
Yes, it was a Homer Simpson moment however it was/is my first engine
pull so live and learn? Sometimes the best lessons must occur at the
expense of what little dignity we have left :)

Anyway, was pulling the motor from my '87 Suburban (350 cu. in. with
4WD) and didn't take the 4 bolts off of the flexplate but instead
pulled the motor apart at the tranny with the TC still hooked to the
flexplate so.....what if anything should I be checking that I might
have messed up? If I would have pulled the TC with the Motor out what
is the normal process? Are there any pins, etc that must be removed or
is it just pushed onto the input shaft on the tranny? Everything looks
to be in fine order with no stripped or chipped teeth on the tranny
input shaft but I want to be sure I didn't break a pin off or
something else during the process that I didn't notice.

Thanks,

Joe
N8N - 05 Nov 2007 20:24 GMT
> Yes, it was a Homer Simpson moment however it was/is my first engine
> pull so live and learn? Sometimes the best lessons must occur at the
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Joe

Been a while since I worked on a chevy but I think you will be fine,
just unbolt it from the flexplate and then fit it into the front of
the trans, make sure it is fully engaged, then reinstall as normal.

nate
Don Bruder - 05 Nov 2007 20:45 GMT
> Yes, it was a Homer Simpson moment however it was/is my first engine
> pull so live and learn? Sometimes the best lessons must occur at the
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Joe

To the best of my knowledge, you should be just fine. Pulling TC with
engine is fairly routine, albeit usually somewhat messy as the TC dumps
its fill of ATF all over the garage floor. (Unless, of course, you've
planned to do so, and drain the rig before starting)

Word of advice, though - Don't know if it holds for Chevy products, but
on some Fords, the "socket" on the TC that mates with the input shaft of
the tranny has two "flat spots" on the outer circumference. Fail to line
those flat spot up with the corresponding flat spots inside the tranny,
and as you tighten the bell-housing bolts during reassembly, you destroy
the front pump in the tranny. A couple of years ago, my former landlord
had to have a previously working tranny rebuilt three times in 2 weeks
before figuring out what it was he was doing wrong. It's quite unlikely
he'll ever make THAT mistake again...

Apparently the outer part of the TC meshes with the front pump via those
two flats. Fail to line them up, and you fatally crush the front pump
when you bolt the bell-housing to the engine. And it doesn't take much
at all to do the damage (you only find out for sure when you fire up and
try to drive away after reassembly is complete - there is little or no
indication that your alignment attempt has failed until then)

Signature

Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist,
or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow"
somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my
ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info

Joe - 05 Nov 2007 21:00 GMT
Nate & Don.

Thanks for the input and thanks for the info on the 'flat spots'

Been waiting for a week for a response on a different forum and you
guys mostly cleared it up in a few minutes. Don like your neighbor I
realized I didn't read one sentence correctly which would also explain
why the tranny and engine were a little difficult to pull apart but it
is a error in judgement I shall not make again. Read twice, wrench on
once...

Take care,

Joe
Steve W. - 06 Nov 2007 03:37 GMT
> Nate & Don.
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Joe

While you have it apart and are there replace the transmissions front
seal and the converter bushing. Easy to do now. Also you could flush the
converter with new fluid and drop the pan and change the fluid as well.
Gives you almost all new juice that way.

Watch out for the pump slots when you reinstall it. Just slide it into
place gently and rotate it until it goes into place. Then toss a wire on
an ear and wire it back while you install the engine. Easier that way.
While you have the engine out check your brake lines and cooler lines
for leaks/rust. Easier to replace them with an open engine bay.

Signature

Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York
NRA Member
Pacifism - The theory that if they'd fed
Jeffrey Dahmer enough human flesh,
he'd have become a vegan.

 
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