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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / November 2007Pulsing Brakes
Hope this is the correct forum to ask a question, if not please direct me to where I can go for a bit of help. 2004 Ford E150, 65,000 mi. former professional wrench twister, now only for necessity ;-) . Been experiencing a pulse in braking, not so much if any feeling in the pedal but certainly the shudder. Getting real annoying and I attributed it to the front rotors being out of round. So off to work I went and had the rotors cut, changed all bearings and races along with the pads (NAPA ceramic with all the lubes) and rotated the tires. No joy! Right from the first test down the street, I could feel it doing the same thing. Increases in intensity with speed but not to the same extent as before the brake job. Any thoughts or suggestions? I'm thinking of checking the rear brakes for warping and maybe the tires for a separation. As I said, no feeling in the pedal, but certainly in the ride. Thanks much Al > Hope this is the correct forum to ask a question, if not please direct > me to where I can go for a bit of help. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > tires for a separation. As I said, no feeling in the pedal, but > certainly in the ride. If you feel it it in the steering and not the brake pedal, I would guess tie rod end(s) as the most likely suspect. The possibility of sticking calipers should also be looked at. At highway speeds does it show up with light braking or only when you try to stop fast? -jim -jim >> Hope this is the correct forum to ask a question, if not please direct >> me to where I can go for a bit of help. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >> tires for a separation. As I said, no feeling in the pedal, but >> certainly in the ride. >If you feel it it in the steering and not the brake pedal, I would guess >tie rod end(s) as the most likely suspect. The possibility of sticking >calipers should also be looked at. > At highway speeds does it show up with light braking or only when you try >to stop fast? Couldn't a defective tire cause a twist on the steering as braking force is applied? As the bad spot rotates into contact with the street, the lateral force will be applied and then vanish when the bad spot rotates out of the way. > >> Hope this is the correct forum to ask a question, if not please direct > >> me to where I can go for a bit of help. [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > lateral force will be applied and then vanish when the bad spot rotates > out of the way. Yes possible, but that doesn't fit with the facts he supplied. He said he rotated the tires. I'm guessing that means front to back. He did a front brake job and tire rotation because he believed the problem was in the front - I'm guessing he's right and something is still wrong in front. -jim >> Hope this is the correct forum to ask a question, if not please direct >> me to where I can go for a bit of help. [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > -jim Rusty or rough rear brakes. Could also be a leaking seal or wheel cylinder. Generally if you can feel it in the ride and in the seat it is rear brakes or tires. If you feel it in the wheel as well then look at the fronts. Some vehicles are REALLY bad for this. The 2500 Dodge my FIL has will develop a shudder if it is parked outside overnight and not driven the next day. The slight rust in the drums gets grabby.  SignatureSteve W. Near Cooperstown, New York Thanks guys! >>> Hope this is the correct forum to ask a question, if not please direct >>> me to where I can go for a bit of help. [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] >a shudder if it is parked outside overnight and not driven the next day. >The slight rust in the drums gets grabby. >> Hope this is the correct forum to ask a question, if not please direct >> me to where I can go for a bit of help. [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > At highway speeds does it show up with light braking or only when you try >to stop fast? light braking even at slower speeds. Can't seem to find any play in the tie rod ends, but again, it's a Ford truck so the possibility is there. Thanks > > Hope this is the correct forum to ask a question, if not please direct > > me to where I can go for a bit of help. [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----http://www.newsfeeds.comThe #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups > ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- It is common with power brakes to not feel warped front rotors with brake pedal, but in the steering wheel. I'd say warped rotor on one of the front wheels. I've had this several times on various cars. Don't feel it in pedal, only in steering wheel. =----http://www.newsfeeds.comThe #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups >> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- > >It is common with power brakes to not feel warped front rotors with >brake pedal, but in the steering wheel. I'd say warped rotor on one >of the front wheels. I've had this several times on various cars. >Don't feel it in pedal, only in steering wheel. Even after being machined? >=----http://www.newsfeeds.comThe #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >120,000+ Newsgroups [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > >Even after being machined? ESPECIALLY after being machined, if it was machined by someone who cut them too thin. --scott Signature"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." >>=----http://www.newsfeeds.comThe #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >>120,000+ Newsgroups [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >them too thin. >--scott Thanks Scott, but they were first run, no scoring and there must be some kind of law down here in TX, they get mic'd before and after. Parts houses are very picky about it, I've used a few different ones the past few years. I guess I can knock the wheels off and put a dial on them. I'm still wondering about the backs. Discs, too! >>>Even after being machined? >> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > the past few years. I guess I can knock the wheels off and put a dial > on them. I'm still wondering about the backs. Discs, too! OR, if the rotors are seperate from the hub, you can have crud behind the rotor which makes it "wobble" when mounted. > =----http://www.newsfeeds.comThe #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > 120,000+ Newsgroups [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Even after being machined? I don't see a torque wrench being mentioned... Most modern rotors will warp like mad if a torque wrench isn't used to tighten the lug nuts down. I would try that before anything else. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08 |
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