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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / February 2008

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Portable jump start units and booster packs

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toronado455 - 21 Jan 2008 21:58 GMT
I have a DieHard 750 Portable Power jump starter & DC power source. It
is a 12V 12Ah rechargeable unit with permanently attached 8-gauge
cables with clamps on the ends. The cables are only 18" long, so you
must connect the clamps directly to the posts on the battery you are
boosting. You cannot connect the negative clamp to an unpainted metal
surface away from the battery because the cable isn't long enough.

However, the unit has an ON/OFF switch. So... If the cables are
connected prior to switching the unit ON, does that eliminate the risk
of spark (and ignition of battery gases)?

I've also considered extending the length of the cables by using a
separate set of jumper cables. Would that be a safe solution, provided
I use 8-gauge (or better) cables?
Mike Romain - 21 Jan 2008 22:47 GMT
> I have a DieHard 750 Portable Power jump starter & DC power source. It
> is a 12V 12Ah rechargeable unit with permanently attached 8-gauge
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> separate set of jumper cables. Would that be a safe solution, provided
> I use 8-gauge (or better) cables?

You can just put a multimeter between the cable clamps on volts and on
amps to see if there is any current.  The switch should be a safety or
they would have made longer cables.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08.  Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
toronado455 - 22 Jan 2008 10:14 GMT
> > I have a DieHard 750 Portable Power jump starter & DC power source. It
> > is a 12V 12Ah rechargeable unit with permanently attached 8-gauge
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> amps to see if there is any current.  The switch should be a safety or
> they would have made longer cables.

You mean you think there could be current when the switch is OFF? Is
that why you think I should test it with the multimeter?
Mike Romain - 22 Jan 2008 15:33 GMT
>>> I have a DieHard 750 Portable Power jump starter & DC power source. It
>>> is a 12V 12Ah rechargeable unit with permanently attached 8-gauge
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> You mean you think there could be current when the switch is OFF? Is
> that why you think I should test it with the multimeter?

That would be the only way it could spark when you connect it up.  If
the switch causes an open circuit, no issues.  You can double check with
the multimeter to set your mind at ease.

I would do that.  I 'had' a battery explode in my face when
disconnecting it after a charge.  Once was way more than enough thanks,
I still carry the scars.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08.  Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
y_p_w - 04 Feb 2008 19:10 GMT
> >>> I have a DieHard 750 Portable Powerjumpstarter& DC power source. It
> >>> is a 12V 12Ah rechargeable unit with permanently attached 8-gauge
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> the switch causes an open circuit, no issues.  You can double check with
> the multimeter to set your mind at ease.

I bought my wife the Black & Decker VEC010BD (by Vector Automotive).
It's got an on-off switch and an advertised 300 amps.  I tried using
it last night.  I tried a bunch of different ways of connecting (none
were final connection to ground post with switch on).  I did get it to
spark when making a final connection near a grounding wire clamp
screw.  When I finished the connection with the on-off switch it
didn't spark.

It didn't start the car (Honda Civic LX) either, although I was able
to use it the previous day when the lights weren't turned off.  I
think the previous dead battery incident coupled with brief driving
(didn't really charge the battery) and another "forgot to turn the
lights off" incident probably meant little charge left.  I was able to
use one of my Schumacher Mity-Mite jump starters (no power switch
though) and it started it up the first time with the negative to the
grounding wire screw.

So as a recommendation, I'd say don't get the VEC010BD, which I got
for $35 at Wal-Mart.  I thought it was a deal (also came with a 12V
charging plug to charge the battery from the car and keep settings
when replacing the battery.  It's rather lightweight, which seems to
mean it doesn't have enough to start a car unless you're just barely
under the point where your battery won't crank the engine.  There are
larger B&D/Vector jump starters, as well as others including my
heavier Schumacher Mity-Mite (I think they have a newer version with a
different name - Instant Power?).

> I would do that.  I 'had' a battery explode in my face when
> disconnecting it after a charge.  Once was way more than enough thanks,
> I still carry the scars.

With the Schumacher unit, I've gotten desperate a few times (wouldn't
start when connected away from the battery) and made a final
connection at the battery's ground post, but I saw no spark.  Probably
stupid of me but I didn't know what else to do.  I did turn my face
away just in case.  I think in a real worst case scenario and I'm at
home, I could connect two (from different cars) in parallel with the
ground away from the battery.
 
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