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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / January 2008Removing Crankshaft Pulley
To remove the bolt that holds the crankshaft pulley off Japanese cars and SUVs such as a Nissan, turn it in the direction opposite to the direction the engine turns, right? > To remove the bolt that holds the crankshaft pulley off Japanese > cars and SUVs such as a Nissan, turn it in the direction opposite to > the direction the engine turns, right? I worry making a generalization like this is dangerous. Ed I don't know of any that don't have standard right handed threads. The issue in removing Japanese crankshaft bolts is that they are usually torqued to a level approaching welded-in-place. On 1/24/08 8:44 AM, in article Uu1mj.162622$MJ6.102026@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net, "Ken" <kmurph@worldnet.att.net> wrote: > To remove the bolt that holds the crankshaft pulley off Japanese cars > and SUVs such as a Nissan, turn it in the direction opposite to the > direction the engine turns, right? Ken <kmurph@worldnet.att.net> wrote in news:Uu1mj.162622$MJ6.102026 @bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net: > To remove the bolt that holds the crankshaft pulley off Japanese cars > and SUVs such as a Nissan, turn it in the direction opposite to the > direction the engine turns, right? All the ones I've personally come across have normal right-hand threads regardless of engine rotation direction.  SignatureTegger Which engine turns counter-clockwise? > All the ones I've personally come across have normal right-hand threads > regardless of engine rotation direction. > > -- > Tegger dahpater <dahpater@yahoo.com> wrote in news:5c73c284-b471-46e2-894e- 38e589c74b9d@l32g2000hse.googlegroups.com: > Which engine turns counter-clockwise? Honda/Acura fours. There might be others, but I'm not aware of them. SignatureTegger > dahpater <dahpa...@yahoo.com> wrote in news:5c73c284-b471-46e2-894e- > 38e589c74...@l32g2000hse.googlegroups.com: [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > -- > Tegger Didn't know that. Thanx. >> dahpater <dahpa...@yahoo.com> wrote in news:5c73c284-b471-46e2-894e- >> 38e589c74...@l32g2000hse.googlegroups.com: [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Didn't know that. Thanx. and some of them are on TIGHT. The OEM torque on my buddy's 92 Acura was like 500 foot-pounds. You need a BIG impact to get it off. Weirdly enough, you only put it back on to (IIRC) 100 foot-pounds. Using the OEM service manual would eliminate the confusion generated by posters who have no idea... >>> dahpater <dahpa...@yahoo.com> wrote in news:5c73c284-b471-46e2-894e- >>> 38e589c74...@l32g2000hse.googlegroups.com: [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > You need a BIG impact to get it off. > Weirdly enough, you only put it back on to (IIRC) 100 foot-pounds. Ray <ray@!rollingviolation.example.com.invalid> wrote in news:OO6mj.2635 $ow.1576@pd7urf1no: >>> dahpater <dahpa...@yahoo.com> wrote in news:5c73c284-b471-46e2-894e- >>> 38e589c74...@l32g2000hse.googlegroups.com: [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > You need a BIG impact to get it off. > Weirdly enough, you only put it back on to (IIRC) 100 foot-pounds. Honda crank bolts are final-torqued to somewhere around 120-130 ft lbs. It varies depending on engine model. There is a phenomenon known as "embedment", where the surface texture of the bolt threads sort of mesh with the surface of the receiving threads in the crank nose, to a lesser or greater degree. This embedment results in the need for up to several times tightening torque when loosening. Honda has mentioned this at least once in their internal dealership publication. SignatureTegger > Ray <ray@!rollingviolation.example.com.invalid> wrote in news:OO6mj.2635 > $ow.1576@pd7urf1no: [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > the need for up to several times tightening torque when loosening. Honda > has mentioned this at least once in their internal dealership publication. And so due to embedment, impact wrenches tend to have greater loosening torque than tightening torque. Makes sense, huh? sdlomi2 > Ray <ray@!rollingviolation.example.com.invalid> wrote in news:OO6mj.2635 > $ow.1576@pd7urf1no: [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > the need for up to several times tightening torque when loosening. Honda > has mentioned this at least once in their internal dealership publication. oh. Ok, well, the manual he had only listed the torque we'd need to get the bolt off, not any fancy details like that. We're backyard mechanics, not pros. We had to bring it to a shop to get the bolt loose, no impact we had would do it. So, when do you pass embedment and reach stripville? Like my buddy says, tighten it till it strips and back it off a quarter turn. :) Ray > So, when do you pass embedment and reach stripville? Like my buddy > says, tighten it till it strips and back it off a quarter turn. :) > > Ray Two different mechanisms. Embedment has to do with metals held in tight contact for extended periods of time. Stripping is simply exceeding the shear strength of the bolt material. Embedment can happen at 10 ft-lb of torque and 10 years of time. Stripping of that same bolt might not happen until 5 times that torque. It just depends on lots of things. The material of the bolt, the type, pitch, and depth of threads, the lubrication and cleanliness of the threads during install, etc. etc. etc. >> Ray <ray@!rollingviolation.example.com.invalid> wrote in >> news:OO6mj.2635 $ow.1576@pd7urf1no: [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > oh. Ok, well, the manual he had only listed the torque we'd need to > get the bolt off, not any fancy details like that. What manual is that? The only figures I've ever seen are for tightening torque. > We're backyard > mechanics, not pros. And it's the backyard grease monkeys who post wondering if it's got a left-hand thread because they can't get it undone. What's really hilarious is how the Honda shop manual diagrams always show the bolt being undone by a normal 10"-long hand ratchet. Every time I need a good laugh I go and look at those pictures. Ha ha ha! > We had to bring it to a shop to get the bolt > loose, no impact we had would do it. I've had excellent success with a DeWalt DW-293 electric impact wrench. Capable of 325 ft lbs of torque and no compressor needed. $200 at Home Depot. Great for suspension bolts too. SignatureTegger >>> Ray <ray@!rollingviolation.example.com.invalid> wrote in >>> news:OO6mj.2635 $ow.1576@pd7urf1no: [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] > Capable of 325 ft lbs of torque and no compressor needed. $200 at Home > Depot. Great for suspension bolts too. I'm not sure which manual he had, it's the only Honda I've ever worked on, and it was a couple of years ago. I'm not your average DIYer tho. I'm a car guy. :) (which means I have dead cars, project cars, a race car, a collection of broken engine parts from said race car, 10,000 issues of Car Craft, the shop manual for every car I've ever owned...) I've actually considered a career in the auto repair business in high school, but decided that doing brake jobs in winter wasn't that much fun, and I wanted to be a mech engineer for GM. That didn't pan out either. My friends and I have since added to the tool collection, so if it ever comes up again, we should be able to snap that sucker off. And if not, I have access to a plasma cutter... ;) hey... that works for the race car - need access to a bolt - just cut a hole in the floor and patch it after. Somehow that doesn't seem to fly on other people's fancy cars when I suggest that. Ray >>> Ray <ray@!rollingviolation.example.com.invalid> wrote in >>> news:OO6mj.2635 $ow.1576@pd7urf1no: [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] > What's really hilarious is how the Honda shop manual diagrams always > show the bolt being undone by a normal 10"-long hand ratchet. That's because the manual's pages aren't big enough to show, to scale, a 3 or 4 foot long "cheater pipe". :-) > Every time > I need a good laugh I go and look at those pictures. Ha ha ha! [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Capable of 325 ft lbs of torque and no compressor needed. $200 at Home > Depot. Great for suspension bolts too. > And it's the backyard grease monkeys who post wondering if it's got a > left-hand thread because they can't get it undone. > > What's really hilarious is how the Honda shop manual diagrams always > show the bolt being undone by a normal 10"-long hand ratchet. Every time > I need a good laugh I go and look at those pictures. Ha ha ha! I was thinking about this a bit, and realized I screwed up the year and some of the info. The car was a 98 Acura CL. My buddy is in the armed forces, so he doesn't live here anymore and was borrowing my garage to do the timing belt while he was here on a training course. He had printouts of what looked like the shop manual. Somewhere in there it made mention of needing major force to remove the crank pulley bolt. I think it was on here somewhere that I was told it's around 500 ft-lbs to remove the OEM bolt, which is why our puny little impacts and breaker bars weren't doing it. Needless to say, the OEM Honda crank bolt is on there good. And because those engines spin the other way, you can't use the starter to bust 'em loose. Unless... can you rewire a starter to spin the other way? Ray A heavy duty breaker bar with an impact wrench socket and a long enough cheater pipe will do it.I like cheater pipes. cuhulin On 1/25/08 9:16 PM, in article gCxmj.10511$ow.5523@pd7urf1no, "Ray" <ray@!rollingviolation.example.com.invalid> wrote: >> And it's the backyard grease monkeys who post wondering if it's got a >> left-hand thread because they can't get it undone. [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > Ray For the backyard mechanic without access to an air wrench, you need the immobilizer tool ( a big nut welded to a flange that will accept a breaker bar) that you insert into the receptacle built into the crank pulley, impact socket, impact extension (only if you absolutely need the clearance), hardened breaker bar (2 of them, one to hold the immobilizer & one to put on the crank bolt), a jack stand or something you can use for a fulcrum & a 4 foot piece of gas pipe to extend the breaker bar. Put it all together and pop the bolt loose. Not fun, but do-able. > On 1/25/08 9:16 PM, in article gCxmj.10511$ow.5523@pd7urf1no, "Ray" > <ray@!rollingviolation.example.com.invalid> wrote: [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] > breaker bar. Put it all together and pop the bolt loose. Not fun, > but do-able. The immobilizer tool is not necessary when you use an electric (or air) impact wrench to loosen the bolt. The immobilizer tool (or similar device) is necessary when /tightening/ the bolt again, unless you have a manual transmission. SignatureTegger >>The OEM torque on my buddy's 92 Acura was like 500 foot-pounds. >>You need a BIG impact to get it off. >>Weirdly enough, you only put it back on to (IIRC) 100 foot-pounds. There's no way in heck that Honda applied 500 ft-lb of torque to install that bolt. A Honda engine doesn't come close to that kind of torque, so the crankshaft wouldn't be able to take it without bending. The high torque required to remove it (which I'd wager was still no more than maybe 200 ft-lb) is just because bolts get tight with age, corrosion, and repeated temperature cycles. > To remove the bolt that holds the crankshaft pulley off Japanese cars > and SUVs such as a Nissan, turn it in the direction opposite to the > direction the engine turns, right? Thanks for all the info guys. I've got the service manual, but like most OEM manuals it describes what to do ... not how. They figure that if you're reading it, you're a mechanic and ought to know. Can't argue with that. All it says is "Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt". Re-torque is to 200 ft/lbs. What I'll do is to go to the dealer and get a look at the bolt. |
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