Dear Dave,
Thank you for your reply.
> 1. When you turn the key to Start, do you hear any clicking sounds from
> the engine area?
no clicking sounds.
> 2. When you turn the key to Start, do the dashboard lights or the dome
> light go out or stay on?
I didn't notice. should be go out.
> 3. With the key off, what happens when you turn on the headlights?
> Normal, dim, or off?
Normal
> --Dave
Dave Allured - 29 Jan 2008 20:54 GMT
Okay. You're down to two main problem areas. Try one more test.
Turn on headlights, low beam, so that you or an assistant can see them.
Turn key to start. If the car does not start, then:
1. If the headlights go out or extremely dim, then it is probably an
old battery or corrosion or bad connection on battery terminals or the
main battery wires, BEFORE the connections to the rest of the electrical
system.
2. If the headlights remain bright or only dim a little, then it is
probably one of the following faults in the starter circuit.
a. Corrosion or bad connection on battery terminals or the main battery
wires, AFTER the connections to the rest of the electrical system.
Sometimes the starter wire and the feed to the rest of the system are
both bolted directly on the same battery terminal. You can build up
corrosion in this area and get intermittent connection to either one.
You may have to unbolt the connections to find and clean out all the
corrosion. If you find *any* corrosion inside battery connections,
consider this your prime suspect and clean the heck out of them, down to
bright bare metal.
b. Contacts or brushes in starter motor starting to break down.
c. Bad ignition switch. This can sometimes be discovered by repeatedly
turning the key to Start and twisting it differently each time.
d. Bad or misadjusted starter interlock switch on clutch or
transmission.
There are other more remote possibilities with faults in the related
parts of the wiring system.
For a better diagnosis, you will need to connect either a voltmeter or a
12 volt test light between battery negative and several points in the
starter primary and control circuits, and see where you are losing
voltage.
If you know what you are doing, then even with a really inexpensive
voltmeter you can rapidly find the exact failure point and save yourself
some trouble. Cheap alligator clip test leads can be very helpful by
making solid test connections while keeping your hands free for other
things.
If you detect a good ground at the starter motor case, plus a solid 12
volts on both the starter positive terminal and the starter solenoid
terminal (when you turn the key to Start), and no crank, then you have
just proved that the starter motor is bad. HTH.
--Dave
> Dear Dave,
>
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>
> > --Dave
Evan Jou - 29 Jan 2008 22:02 GMT
Dear Dave,
The car can be started now. I'll try your suggestion next time it won't
start. Thank you!
Evan Jou
> Okay. You're down to two main problem areas. Try one more test.
>
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>
> --Dave
Evan Jou - 29 Jan 2008 22:16 GMT
> Dear Dave,
>
> The car can be started now. I'll try your suggestion next time it won't
> start. Thank you!
Oh, I mean the car can be started when the headlight is on as you
suggested.
> Evan Jou
>
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>>
>> --Dave