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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / February 2008

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78 ford pickup firing problems

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bluegillus@yahoo.com - 24 Feb 2008 21:44 GMT
I have a 78 ford pickup with a 400 engine.  Shut it off a few weeks
ago and it would not start back up.  I am not getting fire while it is
turning over.  As I shut off the key it will hit but not start.  I
replaced the coil, the electronic ignition, the distributor and
rotor.  Also the ignition switch.  The only thing I have not replaced
that I can think of is the pick up under the distributor.  Has anyone
else had this problem?

I checked and have fire to all the wires.  Coil has fire to it and so
does the electronic ignition box.  Checked the coil and it fires off
only as the key is shut off.  The engine hits once and then does not
start.  Could the problem be in the pickup under the distributor.  I
need this truck to get wood out or its going to be REALLY cold in the
house!!!!!!
HLS - 24 Feb 2008 21:44 GMT
>I have a 78 ford pickup with a 400 engine.  Shut it off a few weeks
> ago and it would not start back up.  I am not getting fire while it is
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> need this truck to get wood out or its going to be REALLY cold in the
> house!!!!!!

Those older cars had a parallel ignition circuit, one leg of which was
active
in the start mode and the other in run mode.  "Run" had a resistor in series
with
the supply to protect points and coil.

I suspect your "Run" mode may be okay, but that the "Start" circuit has a
problem.

Just my guess.
sdlomi2 - 24 Feb 2008 23:00 GMT
>snip<

> I suspect your "Run" mode may be okay, but that the "Start" circuit has a
> problem.
>
> Just my guess.

Might a connection, then, from the starter relay be defective?  s
Mike Walsh - 24 Feb 2008 23:20 GMT
> >snip<
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> >
> Might a connection, then, from the starter relay be defective?  s

If I recall correctly Fords of that era used a relay, usually on the fender well, that supplied 12 volts to the starter and a smaller connector that supplied 12 volts to the coil while cranking.

Signature

                  Mike Walsh

HLS - 25 Feb 2008 00:16 GMT
> >snip<
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>>
> Might a connection, then, from the starter relay be defective?  s

Could be a connection. It shouldnt be too hard to find the lack of
B+ on Start.
ratatouillerat@yahoo.com - 25 Feb 2008 01:08 GMT
If it was a Dodge, I'd say "replace the ballast resistor".  Sounds
like that relay does the same job differently.

One other possibility is if the distributor has one or two pickup
coils.  I have seen distributors (Chrysler) with a Start and a Run
coil.  If so, could be the start coil.

Pete
bluegillus@yahoo.com - 25 Feb 2008 01:29 GMT
On Feb 24, 7:08 pm, ratatouille...@yahoo.com wrote:
> If it was a Dodge, I'd say "replace the ballast resistor".  Sounds
> like that relay does the same job differently.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Pete

I replaced the major coil.  Just found out there is a separate pickup
coil in the distributor I have not replaced yet.  If that was bad
would that cause the truck to fire just as you let of the key?
ratatouillerat@yahoo.com - 25 Feb 2008 01:45 GMT
>On Feb 24, 7:08 pm, ratatouille...@yahoo.com wrote:
>> If it was a Dodge, I'd say "replace the ballast resistor".  Sounds
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>coil in the distributor I have not replaced yet.  If that was bad
>would that cause the truck to fire just as you let of the key?

If there's only one coil in the distributor, it should work (or not
work) for both starting and running.  If there are two coils (and I
don't know much about Fords to even know if they used two), then one
could be bad.

Have you checked the relay on the fender someone else mentioned?

Pete
golden oldie - 25 Feb 2008 02:06 GMT
On Feb 24, 6:45 pm, ratatouille...@yahoo.com wrote:
> >On Feb 24, 7:08 pm, ratatouille...@yahoo.com wrote:
> >> If it was a Dodge, I'd say "replace the ballast resistor".  Sounds
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> Pete

If you replaced the ignition module, the cast aluminum box with 2
electrical plugs and it still does the same thing there is a start
circuit that feeds from the starter solenoid to the module. Do you
have 12 volts at the ignition coil with the key on not cranking?
sdlomi2 - 25 Feb 2008 01:59 GMT
> On Feb 24, 7:08 pm, ratatouille...@yahoo.com wrote:
>> If it was a Dodge, I'd say "replace the ballast resistor".  Sounds
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> coil in the distributor I have not replaced yet.  If that was bad
> would that cause the truck to fire just as you let of the key?

If it has only 1 pickup coil(which is diff. from the ignition coil--which
you called "major" coil), & it works on the 'run' side when key is released,
it should work on 'start' side IF there is no broken/open link along the
'start' side wiring coming to it. As HLS told you in the beginning, this
should have been checked as a first step--in MY thinking also. I firmly
believe you will find your problem in this ciruit!  If/when you determine
this to be the fault, please reply to HLS to thank him AND to let others
learn from the outcome.  Thanks, sdlomi2.
HLS - 25 Feb 2008 11:15 GMT
"sdlomi2" <sdlSPAMomi2@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:rhpwj.79387
> If it has only 1 pickup coil(which is diff. from the ignition coil--which
> you called "major" coil), & it works on the 'run' side when key is
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> you determine this to be the fault, please reply to HLS to thank him AND
> to let others learn from the outcome.  Thanks, sdlomi2.

Im not too sure I remember how Fords that old were wired, SD ;>)
Rodan - 25 Feb 2008 04:16 GMT
I replaced the major coil.  Just found out there is a separate pickup
coil in the distributor I have not replaced yet.  If that was bad
would that cause the truck to fire just as you let of the key?
____________________________________________________

There is a wire from a terminal on the starter relay to the (+)
terminal on the ignition coil.   This wire supplies current to the
coil while the relay is energized during starting.

If this wire is missing or broken, or if the relay is not making its
connection, the engine will not start during cranking, but may fire
when the key is released to the RUN position.

Check the voltage on the coil (+) terminal during cranking.    If it
is more than 9 volts, the relay and the connections are okay.
If not, check the voltage at the relay terminal during cranking.
If it is more than 9 volts, the wire is broken.   If not, the relay
is defective.

Good luck.

Rodan.
bluegillus@yahoo.com - 25 Feb 2008 01:32 GMT
> <bluegil...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
> Just my guess

What confuses me is that I checked all the connections and switches.
The only thing I have not replaced yet that I can think of is the
pickup in the distributor.  Everything else that could be changed was
and the wires checked for connections.  Could the pickup cause the
truck to fire off as the key is released?
Kevin - 25 Feb 2008 03:15 GMT
>> <bluegil...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> and the wires checked for connections.  Could the pickup cause the
> truck to fire off as the key is released?

I think you had better check your timing chain.   KB

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Calab - 25 Feb 2008 03:54 GMT
>> What confuses me is that I checked all the connections and switches.
>> The only thing I have not replaced yet that I can think of is the
>> pickup in the distributor.  Everything else that could be changed was
>> and the wires checked for connections.  Could the pickup cause the
>> truck to fire off as the key is released?

> I think you had better check your timing chain.   KB

I concur... Had a timing gear break on a Mustang of mine. The rotor wasn't
turning when I cranked the engine.
Scott Dorsey - 25 Feb 2008 02:08 GMT
>I have a 78 ford pickup with a 400 engine.  Shut it off a few weeks
>ago and it would not start back up.  I am not getting fire while it is
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>that I can think of is the pick up under the distributor.  Has anyone
>else had this problem?

What makes you think it's the ignition?  If you spray WD-40 into the
intake, will it start up as long as the WD-40 is coming in?
--scott
Signature

"C'est un Nagra.  C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

bluegillus@yahoo.com - 25 Feb 2008 06:18 GMT
> In article <9b2a70e2-bfd5-473b-9760-8c5582bc7...@d5g2000hsc.googlegroups.com>,
>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> --
> "C'est un Nagra.  C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

No I am not getting fire except when the switch is released.  I
checked that.  And yes I tried starter fluid.  Am getting plenty of
gas as well.
Mike Romain - 25 Feb 2008 15:35 GMT
> I have a 78 ford pickup with a 400 engine.  Shut it off a few weeks
> ago and it would not start back up.  I am not getting fire while it is
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> need this truck to get wood out or its going to be REALLY cold in the
> house!!!!!!

My Jeep has a Ford Ignition in it...

You could be describing a failure in the 'start' circuit from the
solenoid/relay on the fender to the coil's power.  One of the small side
posts on this starter solenoid provides power when the key is in
'start', then a ballast wire provides power in 'run'.

One quick test for this is to run a small jumper wire from the battery
positive to the coil positive.  If it then starts, a good clean of the
solenoid connections are in order or a wire trace inside the loom
looking for the broken crimp connection where the two circuits connect.

Note:  If it does start this way, it won't shut down until you remove
the jumper.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08.  Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
 
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