 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / March 2008Acura Brakes
I'm planning to replace pads & rotors on my mother's 2000 Acura TL this weekend. I've done lots of disk brakes but never on an Acura. Anything special I should be aware of? Thanks... > I'm planning to replace pads & rotors on my mother's 2000 Acura TL this > weekend. I've done lots of disk brakes but never on an Acura. Anything > special I should be aware of? Thanks... Nothing out of the ordinary... In fact very easy.. (Rear calipers have to be wound in to install the new pads) >> I'm planning to replace pads & rotors on my mother's 2000 Acura TL >> this weekend. I've done lots of disk brakes but never on an Acura. >> Anything special I should be aware of? Thanks... > > Nothing out of the ordinary... In fact very easy.. (Rear calipers have > to be wound in to install the new pads) Thanks for the info. As long as I can get out the screws that hold the front rotor to the hub I think I should be in good shape. I'll probably tackle it tomorrow... >>> I'm planning to replace pads & rotors on my mother's 2000 Acura TL >>> this weekend. I've done lots of disk brakes but never on an Acura. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > front rotor to the hub I think I should be in good shape. I'll probably > tackle it tomorrow... If you live in an area that has snow, removal of those little screws will probably do zero good in removing the rotors.  SignatureTegger >>>> I'm planning to replace pads & rotors on my mother's 2000 Acura TL >>>> this weekend. I've done lots of disk brakes but never on an Acura. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >> front rotor to the hub I think I should be in good shape. I'll probably >> tackle it tomorrow... >If you live in an area that has snow, removal of those little screws will >probably do zero good in removing the rotors. The rotors don't tend to weld themselves so bad that a good smack with a large hammer won't loosen them. The bigger problem are the screws. An impact driver is the tool for the job. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver > The rotors don't tend to weld themselves so bad that a good smack with a > large hammer won't loosen them. > > The bigger problem are the screws. An impact driver is the tool for the > job. Yep, I have one...and a big hammer...and we don't get much snow down here in AZ so hopefully it won't be to difficult. Now I find out that it's due for a timing belt (3.2L V6)...not sure I want to tackle that... "M.M." <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in news:HwmEj.72774$497.23456 @newsfe14.phx: >> The rotors don't tend to weld themselves so bad that a good smack with a >> large hammer won't loosen them. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Yep, I have one...and a big hammer Don't use a big hammer. If the rotors won't come off easily, ask here for a non-destructive technique that uses an 8oz (half pound) ball-peen hammer. SignatureTegger > If the rotors won't come off easily, ask here for a non-destructive > technique that uses an 8oz (half pound) ball-peen hammer. Please share... "M.M." <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in news:UtvEj.72791$497.19542 @newsfe14.phx: >> If the rotors won't come off easily, ask here for a non-destructive >> technique that uses an 8oz (half pound) ball-peen hammer. > > Please share... After raising the car, securing it and removing the road wheel, do this: 1) Get an 8oz ball peen hammer. That's a half-pounder; a little guy. 2) Remove caliper and its mount bracket. 3) With ball end of hammer, tap on the side of the "top hat", about as hard as you'd vigorously knock on a door. Maybe a bit harder 4) Tap as close to the friction surface as you can, to make sure your blows are as far away from the hub as possible. You will damage the friction surface with occasional misaimed whacks, but you're replacing the rotor anyway. 5) Turn the rotor and keep tapping. Turn and tap, working your way around the "top hat". 6) Eventually (a minute or less), you'll start to hear and see rust breaking up and falling out the bottom of the rotor. 7) Keep tapping and turning. 8) At some point, you should be able to make the rotor move by wiggling it with your hands. Find out where it's still stuck, and concentrate your hammering there. 9) Once it's loose enough, THEN you hit the rotor from the back, to drive it off the hub. SignatureTegger > After raising the car, securing it and removing the road wheel, do this: > ... Thanks but it turns out I didn't need the hammer at all. The screws came out with one hit on the impact tool and both rotors came off with one pull. It was a very easy job, as one of the other responders said. I guess not living in snow/ice/salt country makes a difference. "M.M." <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in news:oXEEj.23230$CD7.21387 @newsfe11.phx: >> After raising the car, securing it and removing the road wheel, do this: >> ... [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > pull. It was a very easy job, as one of the other responders said. I > guess not living in snow/ice/salt country makes a difference. As a prisoner of the Rust Belt, I hate all Arizonans on principle. Nobody who has suspension parts that still retain their factory paint after eight years should be allowed to live. Sorry, I'm just feeling sorry for myself... :( SignatureTegger >"M.M." <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in news:oXEEj.23230$CD7.21387 >@newsfe11.phx: >>> After raising the car, securing it and removing the road wheel, do this: >>> ... [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >> pull. It was a very easy job, as one of the other responders said. I >> guess not living in snow/ice/salt country makes a difference. >As a prisoner of the Rust Belt, I hate all Arizonans on principle. At least you can leave a car outside without it becoming too hot to touch. Also car batteries only last 3 years before being killed by the heat. >>>>> I'm planning to replace pads & rotors on my mother's 2000 Acura TL >>>>> this weekend. I've done lots of disk brakes but never on an Acura. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > The rotors don't tend to weld themselves so bad that a good smack with > a large hammer won't loosen them. Yes they do. Oh, yes they do! And when they do, it's a SMALL 8oz hammer which corrects that, when applied just the right way. SignatureTegger >>>>>> I'm planning to replace pads & rotors on my mother's 2000 Acura TL >>>>>> this weekend. I've done lots of disk brakes but never on an Acura. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >> The rotors don't tend to weld themselves so bad that a good smack with >> a large hammer won't loosen them. >Yes they do. Oh, yes they do! >And when they do, it's a SMALL 8oz hammer which corrects that, when applied >just the right way. First you say that rotors tend to weld themselves so bad that a good smack with a large hammer won't loosen them. Then you say the opposite that even a small hammer will loosen them. What are you trying to say? >>>>>>> I'm planning to replace pads & rotors on my mother's 2000 Acura >>>>>>> TL this weekend. I've done lots of disk brakes but never on an [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > What are you trying to say? Both things at once. For different reasons. Brute force does less in this case than judiciously applied light shocks. After raising the car, securing it and removing the road wheel, do this: 1) Get an 8oz ball peen hammer. That's a half-pounder; a little guy. 2) Remove caliper and its mount bracket. 3) With ball end of hammer, tap on the side of the "top hat", about as hard as you'd vigorously knock on a door. Maybe a bit harder 4) Tap as close to the friction surface as you can, to make sure your blows are as far away from the hub as possible. You will damage the friction surface with occasional misaimed whacks, but you're replacing the rotor anyway. 5) Turn the rotor and keep tapping. Turn and tap, working your way around the "top hat". 6) Eventually (a minute or less), you'll start to hear and see rust breaking up and falling out the bottom of the rotor. 7) Keep tapping and turning. 8) At some point, you should be able to make the rotor move by wiggling it with your hands. Find out where it's still stuck, and concentrate your hammering there. 9) Once it's loose enough, THEN you hit the rotor from the back, to drive it off the hub. SignatureTegger |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.