In article
<f3489579-514f-4fac-a40a-e78ae5813cc4@24g2000hsh.googlegroups.com>,

I just did mine in my '82 626. Dunno what Haynes thinks (Since I've got
the factory manual, I consider Haynes and Chiltons to be total garbage
by comparison) but according to the factory manual, it's "one size fits
all" for mine. Dunno what year your 2600 is, but I'd expect that it
would be VERY similar, if not identical - At least until recently, Mazda
tended to find something that worked, then they stuck with it for quite
a while.

For example, from '79 to '82, 626s were identical in every way in
"major" systems like drive train, suspension, brakes, and the core
chunks of the body, with only minor differences in trim details,
placement of idiot lights and/or switches in the dash, and so on to
distinguish one year from another in that range. Never mind the fact
that I can pull an engine and/or tranny from a Ford Courier or the
Mazda-badged version (I think that would be the B2000?) in the 76-'85
range, and drop it into a '79-'82 626 without so much as a nut or bolt
worth of difference - The only significant change would be that I'd end
up with a slightly lower set of gear ratios if I brought the tranny
along in the swap)

I would start by blocking the wheels and putting it in neutral. Then I
would get under and inspect the u-joints for any sign of rust coming out
of the caps and I would be twisting and pushing on each one looking for
slop or play.

Only 0 for play or slop is acceptable. If there is rust coming out of a
cap, the bearings are done and it needs a new one.

The clips would change the driveshaft angles or 'align' it.  This is
likely only needed if you change your springs for a different height and
experience vibes.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08.  Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com