1984 Honda Accord, Automatic 1.8L 4cyl.
After driving the car long enough for the breaks to warm up, the front
breaks begin holding. The break pedal gets very firm with no travel
until the car wont go anymore. After the car sits and cools down, the
breaks release.
I have replaced the master cyl, break booster, front pads and
calipers. Bleed the entire system but the same thing still happens.
Any ideas? No fluid is leaking and the breaks work fine until they
heat up from stopping several times or going down a hill. Someone
suggested the proportioning valve. Can this valve cause this
problem? I have contacted all of the local auto parts stores and none
of them sell any proportioning valves 'dealer only'. I have looked up
used ones on ebay and they seem to all have the same connections mine
has, can I use one from any car as long as it has all of the
connections or does it have to be specifically for this car?
ANY suggestions/info will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
On Apr 30, 4:04 pm, mholst...@gmail.com wrote:
> 1984 Honda Accord, Automatic 1.8L 4cyl.
>
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>
> Thank you
I don't think the prop valve could be your problem, as that would
generally cause issues with the *rear* brakes - the fronts generally
run unproportioned straight from the master cylinder.
Have you ever replaced the brake hoses on this car? My first guesses
would either be simply old front hoses that are acting as check
valves, or else improper master cylinder pushrod adjustment (do you
have enough freeplay in the brake pedal?)
Also, are you sure that it is the front brakes? if they are dragging
badly, you should be able to feel the wheels and find them to be quite
warm. If it is actually the rears that are dragging, there are other
things to check,. like parking brake adjustment.
Finally, if you are sure that the front brakes are the problem, if you
have the ability, next time the brakes start dragging, immediately
jack the whole front of the car up and try to spin the wheels. I'm
assuming that you will find that they are in fact dragging. then
crack a bleeder screw on one wheel, If both free up your problem is
not at the caliper or hose, but in the master cylinder, pedal free
play, etc. If only one frees up then the problem is likely either the
hoses or else bad reman calipers. If they don't free up at all it's a
mechanical problem with the caliper or something in that area.
good luck
nate
mholstein@gmail.com - 01 May 2008 23:33 GMT
THANK YOU!!!!!! It was the master cylinder pushrod. Minor adjustment
and now the breaks are perfect!
After messing with this thing for over 4 months...
A million thanks!
mikey
> On Apr 30, 4:04 pm, mholst...@gmail.com wrote:
>
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>
> nate
N8N - 02 May 2008 13:47 GMT
Great! glad to hear you fixed it and thanks for the feedback.
nate
On May 1, 6:33 pm, mholst...@gmail.com wrote:
> THANK YOU!!!!!! It was the master cylinder pushrod. Minor adjustment
> and now the breaks are perfect!
[quoted text clipped - 56 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -
TE Chea - 03 May 2008 16:22 GMT