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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / May 200898 Grand Am Stalling Problem
My daughter has a 98 Pontiac Grand AM....2.4 lt engine....about 83,000 miles on it. It is having a problem with intermittent stalling. I replaced the spark plugs and cleaned the idle air control motor. It didn't stall for a week..then started stalling again. I replaced the idle air control motor. It didn't stall for a week. I replaced a defective vacuum line from the throttle body to the map sensor and replaced the fuel filter. It didn't stall for about two weeks....thought I had found the problem. It is back to stalling....several times a week. 75% of the time it stalls when it has been driven a short distance....perhaps a few miles....so the engine is warmed up...shut off....come back 10 minutes later....like after running into a store...when she restarts it, puts it in gear, steps on the gas to go....it stalls. Usually, it restarts no problem. 25 % of the time it stalls after a cold start....brief warm up...put it in gear to back up....and stalls. Any suggestions? Gas filter. start by pulling fault codes from the pcm before you throww any more parts at it > Gas filter. > start by pulling fault codes from the pcm before you throww any more > parts at it. No Mr. Wong, that is "wong". You check the "basics" first, which he is doing. He just forgot/didn't know a few things to do/check. Once you've eliminated the basics, and a problem is still there, you can check the codes if you want, but they will be meaningless! Someone could have un-hooked sensors, pulled plug wires, etc. to see if the problem changes/goes away. Of course that will set a code, which is worthless. You need to clear the codes, then drive the car through various conditions, then check for codes and diagnosis/repair accordingly. If there are no codes, then you'll want check "real time data" and see what ain't doin what when it possda. I had it scanned for fault codes. Their were none. I have replaced the coolant temperature sensor, the spark plugs, the Idle Air Control motor, and the fuel filter. To review....it stalls a couple of times a week. 15 % of the time it is after it was started cold and put into gear. 85 % of the time the engine is warm...perhaps having driven 10-15 minutes and sitting at a traffic light...it stalls on its own...or it is turned off after a few minutes of driving...say to run into a store...when it is restarted and put into gear it stalls. If it runs for a while..say driving 20-30 minutes it doesn't have the stalling problem. > I had it scanned for fault codes. Their were none. > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > and put into gear it stalls. If it runs for a while..say driving 20-30 > minutes it doesn't have the stalling problem. If it only stalls in gear, then I'd have to second the Torque converter lockup. there should be wiring at the brake pedal you can disconnect and then drive for a while which will prevent the lockup from happening, which if it's the cause, will prevent it from stalling. The wife's Beretta has had this problem (TH125.) The solenoid starts to stick after a few years and doesn't unlock the torque converter when you stop, so it stalls the car out. It slowly but surely gets worse and starts to happen more and more. One way to tell is when you're driving, tap the brake - the rpms should pick up by about 200 when you hit the brake as the tq unlocks and then the rpm will drop back down when you let go of the brake as the trans locks the torque converter back up. That said, I just solved a driveability problem on the same Beretta... EGR valve. The car set no codes and would idle like crap - like a 69 Camaro with a big cam. If you stood on the gas, it ran great. I threw plugs and wires (worn plugs and cracked wires) at it, then tried cleaning the IAC - no change. Went to the junkyard and got an IAC and an EGR while I was there. Also checked the vapor canister and the PS switch to see if it was mucking with the idle. Replaced the EGR and all done. Also, your car is OBDII, so a good scan tool might help - not just a code reader, but a scan tool. It can show you stuff to help diagnose the actual problem, like the computer thinks it's -40 outside or something really weird and it's trying to compensate... Ray I had it scanned for fault codes. Their were none. I have replaced the coolant temperature sensor, the spark plugs, the Idle Air Control motor, and the fuel filter. To review....it stalls a couple of times a week. 15 % of the time it is after it was started cold and put into gear. 85 % of the time the engine is warm...perhaps having driven 10-15 minutes and sitting at a traffic light...it stalls on its own...or it is turned off after a few minutes of driving...say to run into a store...when it is restarted and put into gear it stalls. If it runs for a while..say driving 20-30 minutes it doesn't have the stalling problem. On May 14, 10:26 am, cwl...@gmail.com wrote: > I had it scanned for fault codes. Their were none. > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > and put into gear it stalls. If it runs for a while..say driving 20-30 > minutes it doesn't have the stalling problem. My WAG would be the torque converter clutch solenoid thats what i was thinking too from the conditions stated > On May 14, 10:26 am, cwl...@gmail.com wrote: > > I had it scanned for fault codes. Their were none. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > My WAG would be the torque converter clutch solenoid it's plain to me you have no common sense when it comes to fixing a car the basics would be check battery connections then scan tool a scantool and fault codes can and do reveal the basics > > start by pulling fault codes from the pcm before you throww any more > > parts at it. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > accordingly. If there are no codes, then you'll want check "real time > data" and see what ain't doin what when it possda. > it's plain to me you have no common sense when it comes to fixing a car > the basics would be check battery connections then scan tool > a scantool and fault codes can and do reveal the basics LOL. I believe your serious. So your telling me this is how you check the basics: "when it comes to fixing a car the basics would be check battery connections then scan tool". Still laughing! >25 % of the time it stalls after a cold start....brief warm up...put >it in gear to back up....and stalls. > >Any suggestions? Check and / or replace the coolant temp sensor. Check the connections to make sure they are sound. Steve B. check the fuel pressure.
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