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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / July 200899 dodge intrepid fuel pump low voltage
Hello, I have a 1999 Dodge Intrepid that has a 2.7 engine that quit running. I could not hear the fuel pump cycling when you turn the key on and the car would not start. I played with the key off and on for several times and then the pump would cycle and I tried to start it and it started ok and ran fine. I test drove the car for 10 mins. and then shut off the car and it would not cycle again or start so I assumed the fuel pump went out. I tried switching the fuel pump relay with another relay of the same part number but still no cycle. I had the car towed to a repair shop and they checked the fuel pump wiring with a test light and it had power at the connection so they proceeded to install the new fuel pump but still the same problem. After they found out the new pump did not work, they checked the voltage and found out there was only 8.5 volts going to the pump. They said they checked all the grounds before they discovered the low voltage. Is there any sensors that would cause the voltage to be reduced? The car over heated a week before because it was stuck in traffic and the outside temp was close to 100 degree's that day but shut it down as soon and the hot like came on. The car also has a remote control starter on it and they are going to check that part out tomorrow but I don't want to pay for all the wasted labor hours if there is a common problem with this year and model. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Email is nick.meyokovich@gmail.com Thank you I don't want to > pay for all the wasted labor hours if there is a common problem with > this year and model. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Email is > nick.meyokov...@gmail.com > Thank you I went through the IATN database and searched Mitchel On Demand and found no recalls or TSB's relating to fuel pump problems. Tons of problems with cam sensors... Ben I cant figure out why a shop wouldnt check voltage and amperage during a fuel pump diagnosis. Did you pay them to replace the pump or to diagnose the problem? If they were paid to diagnose the problem then you shouldnt have to pay parts and labor on the pump. Anyhow... So, you've got 8.5 volts @ the pump. The next thing to check is the voltage input and output at the relay. You should have battery voltage to the relay with the key on.If you have battery voltage out of the relay *when cranking*, there is a bad wire or connector between the relay and the pump. I see this quite often. Good luck, Ben On Jul 25, 3:48 pm, nick.meyokov...@gmail.com wrote: > Hello, > I have a 1999 Dodge Intrepid that has a 2.7 engine that quit running. [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > nick.meyokov...@gmail.com > Thank you > I cant figure out why a shop wouldnt check voltage and amperage during > a fuel pump diagnosis. Did you pay them to replace the pump or to [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > > nick.meyokov...@gmail.com > > Thank you Ben, I will pass this on. I had another intrepid, a 2001 that I had a motor put in and the car would only run if the cam sensor was not plugged in. They could not figure it out so they called in a Chrysler trouble shooter and found out the cam timing was wrong because the new motor was a newer model so they had to pull the front off and chance the timing on it so this guy is going to check out the pump problem. I have had a lot of prior problems with this car shutting off when raining, which was the crank sensor, and then the cam sensor went out. The car in the past would shutter and hardly run sometime but did not do this shutter and loose power since the crank sensor was changed. Does the fuel pump wiring pass through any kind of temp sensors since the overheat problem the other day to cause this problem to prevent engine damage. Everything I checked on, the temp would not cause this problem. I don't have a schematic to follow the wiring and don't know if they even do. This car had a motor put in a few years ago and it is possible they cut some of the wiring harness when they installed the motor. Same garage installed the motor that is doing the work now. Thanks, Nick > I cant figure out why a shop wouldnt check voltage and amperage during > a fuel pump diagnosis. Did you pay them to replace the pump or to [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > > nick.meyokov...@gmail.com > > Thank you On other thing that just hit me was that the relay is not cycling now. Is there two separate power lines running to the pump? I think they told me that one of the lines had a full 12 volts but the other only had 8.5. How is the pump getting 8.5 volts if the relay is not cycling? > On other thing that just hit me was that the relay is not cycling now. > Is there two separate power lines running to the pump? I think they > told me that one of the lines had a full 12 volts but the other only > had 8.5. How is the pump getting 8.5 volts if the relay is not > cycling? There's only two wires to the pump. If one has 12v and the other 8.5v, then you have a bad ground. OK here goes... There are no temp sensors or controls for the fuel pump. There is a 4 wire fuel pump relay located in the power distribution center. Dark Blue/White wire powers the relay through a 10 amp fuse, #13 (left side of dash) Brown wire triggers the relay through the ECM Red wire provides pump power from 40 amp fuse #G in the power distribution center Dark green/White wire powers the pump The black wire that grounds the pump is located under the right rear seat. Before I would chase the overheat thing, I would double check all the basics; check all fuses and and voltage drop all the grounds, especially the ones that were disturbed during the engine change. Good luck, Ben > OK here goes... > There are no temp sensors or controls for the fuel pump. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Good luck, > Ben Ben, Thanks for your input. I stopped out the garage today and was talking to the mechanics today and they did not look at the car today but I told them about the ground connection under the back seat for the fuel pump. We pulled the back seat out and there was no ground but there was a modular connection or quick connect for the fuel pump wiring and lo and behold when pulled apart, the jack or connection was full of corrosion. The one large feed wire was corroded off and we had to cut the wire out of the connection and by pass the jack. The car starts right up so I have to go to the bone yard and get a jack and soldier it in and then heat shrink and seal the connection. I don't know how long it would have taken the mechanics before they pulled that jack apart. Thanks for the tip and all your help. I did cut all the wires and soldier them and heat shrink for a temp fix until I can get a jack so you can disconnect for testing. Thanks again, Nick > > OK here goes... > > There are no temp sensors or controls for the fuel pump. [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > Thanks again, > Nick Cool! >>> OK here goes... >>> There are no temp sensors or controls for the fuel pump. [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > Cool! I wouldn't bother getting a replacement connection. Just cut both ends off and splice in new wires. That should be fine. That connector only allows the rear harness to be replaced if it fails. Not really a needed item. For the splice I would use the same size wire solder the connections and seal them with good heat shrink and some brush on sealant. That repair would be better than the original connection.  SignatureSteve W. Near Cooperstown, New York Life is not like a box of chocolates it's more like a jar of jalapenos- what you do today could burn your a.s tomorrow! |
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