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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / September 2005Overheating Engine on Chevy S-10
Hello everyone, I have 94' Chevy Blazer S-10 2WD. I now have engine overheating problem on this car. When I am driving local, it seems like temp. going up little from the middle, however, when I am driving highway, the gauge is going up to the red zone and "Check gages" light on. And it drops to the middle within couple of seconds. It happens many times while I am driving. I recently did following things. 1. Changed Water Pump (this was bursted and installed new one). 2. Changed Thermostat. 3. Changed Engine Heat Sensor. 4. Coolant is pretty new because it was filled when the water pump was installed. 5. I don't see any boiling coolant or overflowed coolant. No leaked coolant, either. 6. When I touch the hoses that going in/out, I can feel warm with little tight pressure. The mechanic that I have been dealing with, he now recommends to flush the radiator. I looked many news posting in this group to try to find some answers. The car was running fine until the water pump bursted. No overheating problem before. However, it happened once I changed the water pump. Do you think that it's just coincidence? or should I ask the mechanic to look at the water pump? I understand that the overheating problem can be caused by many factors. My worst and last solution could be replacing the radiatior. I welcome to anyone who is willing to give me some tips. Thank you for reading my posting. Young. >Subject: Overheating Engine on Chevy S-10 >From: cooltoriz@hotmail.com (YKP) >My worst and last solution could be replacing the radiatior. You could probably get your radiator cleaned for about $90 or so. You might want to try that before you buy a brand new radiator. Look in the yellow pages for radiator shops in your area. Good luck. Sally sells sea shells by the sea shore because rough men stand ready to do violence on her behalf. > >Subject: Overheating Engine on Chevy S-10 > >From: cooltoriz@hotmail.com (YKP) [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Sally sells sea shells by the sea shore because rough men stand ready to > do violence on her behalf. First of all, thank you for having interest to my post. My another question is "is it possible that the guage moving up and down if the radiator flow is bad?". The guage constantly move slowly from the middle to the top and it goes back to the middle again, and the behavior is repeated while I am on highway. I was thinking that it could be bad/defective thermostat causing the problem. I already mentioned that I changed with new one. One of my co-worker recommended me to try to drive the car without the thermostat. I don't see any danger by doing that except my fuel effeciency will be low without it. If the engine stay at hot temp., that could be bad radiator. However, since temp. going up and down, it might be other parts causing the problem. Again, if you have any new idea, please let me know. Thank you, Young. > Hello everyone, > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > Young. Which engine? Are you sure the thermostatic clutch on the fan is OK? Losing coolant? May be a bad head gasket. Is the oil clear? BOB > Which engine? Are you sure the thermostatic clutch on the > fan is OK? Losing coolant? May be a bad head gasket. > Is the oil clear? > > BOB Thank you for your response. I have 4.3 Vortec engine. I changed engine oil a month ago. It seems like the fan clutch is okay. I don't loose any coolant. However, I smell coolant a little when the temp. going down to the middle. Maybe my nose/mental is too sensitive. I don't see any coolant losing after the driving. How do I verify that the head gasket is okay or not? Am I expect large bill for repairing it? Is it possible that I do myself if I have right tools? Thank you, Young. >> Which engine? Are you sure the thermostatic clutch on the >> fan is OK? Losing coolant? May be a bad head gasket. [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > >Young. Have the cooling system pressure tested. If it holds pressure, the head gasket is probably ok. I'd suspect a bad fan clutch. Basics: Check for a faulty ECT sensor. Check to make sure you have the right coolant consentration level. Check drive belt tension. Check front of radiator for obstructions of air flow. Check radiator internal obstruction as follows: Bring engine to operation temperature. Turn engine off. The rad should feel hot along the left side. The rad should feel warm along the right side. There should be an even temperature rise from the right to the left. Cold spots indicate that there are clogged sections in the rad. Good Luck mine was doing that once and I found a bad water pump and air in the system. > >> Which engine? Are you sure the thermostatic clutch on the > >> fan is OK? Losing coolant? May be a bad head gasket. [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > Good Luck > mine was doing that once and I found a bad water pump and air in the > system. By now we have all heard of those badmouthing GM's DexCool formulation saying it gums up and plugs the system. Have run across several instances suggesting there is always air in the systems this problem is found. That as long as the pressurized system stays full of liquid and air free that no problems occur. Hi, I'm having same trouble on my 4.3 vortec 1996 blazer. Could you tell me how you solved you issue? Have the same problems you mention. I can hear bubbles flowing when the engine starts, then the temp. goes all the way up very fast, check gages light on then temp. goes down again... Ah interior heater doesnt work properly, maybe it has to do with it. Any help? Thanks. >> Which engine? Are you sure the thermostatic clutch on the >> fan is OK? Losing coolant? May be a bad head gasket. [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > >Young. All responds are valid, Rob's clog idea may be it too, you could have an air pocket there causing the problem. I also would double check the new waterpump. On my S15 Jimmy the 4.3 used a reverse rotation waterpump. It looks and fits the same as a normal rotation 350 waterpump. So, I'd have a look at the coolant with the engine running and the radiator cap off. The flow should be from the top hose across the top of the radiator tank toward the cap and then it makes it's way back to the bottom of the tank to the lower hose. If you get bubbles from the lower hose side, then I'd say the waterpump is turning backwards for you engine, or the pump is bad. smac > Hello everyone, > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > Young. >All responds are valid, Rob's clog idea may be it too, >you could have an air pocket there causing the problem. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > >smac If the wrong pump is on it would just mean the impeller is shapped to be turned "the other way" but it's still going to be turning the "right" way for his truck. But it won't pump nearly the volume of water that the proper water pump would. It would be a good thing to check. >> Hello everyone, >> [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] >> >> Young. Who installed the thermostat and is it possible they installed it backwards? What kind of shape is the lower radiator hose in? Is it possible it's collapsing under suction? >Hello everyone, > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > >Young. |
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