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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / May 2007Help with Stripped and Rusted bolt
I need some advice. I am trying to take out the bolt that goes into the positive terminal of my sidepost battery. It's rusted-in and very stripped, nothing I do will budge it and I cannot move the battery out of it's little cramped compartment to get more leverage. Should I take a hacksaw to it? Hammer and Chisil? I cannot really get anything like liquid wrench on the threads since those are sealed over by the connector. thanks in advance. echo*ohce >I need some advice. > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >really get anything like liquid wrench on the threads since those >are sealed over by the connector. You can get bolt removal tools for stripped bolts. They look like a socket but have teeth inside instead of flats that will bite into a rounded nut or bolt. Shock helps too, if you can get hold of a small impact wrench. ||>I need some advice. ||> [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] ||rounded nut or bolt. Shock helps too, if you can get hold of a small ||impact wrench. Be resigned to the fact that the battery is toast, since removal methods would likely break the seal to the case or the connection to the grids. Hopefully you are changing the battery because it is dead. Texas Parts Guy > ||>I need some advice. > ||> [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > you are changing the battery because it is dead. > Texas Parts Guy Rex is correct here, for the most part. If the battery is good, and you have some extra cable to the terminal, you can cut the cable and use water pump pliers to wind the bolt and terminal out together. It still may break the seal to the case though. Chas Hurst >Rex is correct here, for the most part. If the battery is good, and you have >some extra cable to the terminal, you can cut the cable and use water pump [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > >Or........you could cut the cable, then splice another cable to the cut end. I find it hard to believe that you cant back a bolt out of those lead threads. Yes, you may strip everything, but lead is soft and I believe you most likely CAN loosen it. Vise grips, whatever. > I find it hard to believe that you cant back a bolt out of those lead > threads. That's because many side terminal batterys use a steel insert (nut) inside the connection. > Yes, you may strip everything, but lead is soft and I believe you > most likely CAN loosen it. > > Vise grips, whatever. What everyone so far has pretty much missed is; the terminal is leaking acid, that is why the terminal bolt is frozen. Over tightening is the most likely cause... The battery -and- the cable need to be replaced or the same problem will occur in short order. >> I find it hard to believe that you cant back a bolt out of those lead >> threads. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >cable need to be replaced or the same problem will occur in short >order. i've seen terminal removal tools at stores like harbor freight and western auto. i'm sure sears sell the same thing. it looks like a miniature gear puller. this may be what you are looking for, since there will be no twisting to make the crack worse. nanook wrote in rec.autos.tech >>> I find it hard to believe that you cant back a bolt out of those lead >>> threads. [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > miniature gear puller. this may be what you are looking for, since > there will be no twisting to make the crack worse. Uh, no. Those tools are for removing the battery cables from the top mounted terminals. The terminals on those are about 1/2 inch or larger in diameter, and sometimes the cable does not come off of them. The best way to remove those cables is to loosen the nut and then pull with the puller. What the OP has is a side terminal battery. The terminals are mounted flush to the side of the case, and then are drilled and tapped to accept a bolt. The cable ends are wrapped in insulation, with a hole through the middle, and the special design bolt fits into the insulation and screws into the termimal. There is nothing to pull. The batteries are a real pain. Hard to jump, since the bolt heads are so small, and can be hard to change. My own advice is that if vice grips cant' get the bolt out, disconnect the cables from the other end, or cut them off, pull the battery and buy new cables an battery. Possibly going to a more conventional battery.  SignatureDick #1349 "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." ~Benjamin Franklin Home Page: dickcr.iwarp.com email: dickcr@comcast.net Is there also regular terminals on the top of the battery? If so you could use one of them instead. I would try penetrating oil and visegrips first. > I need some advice. > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > echo*ohce Why not just trace the battery wires back to their point of connection [pos and neg] and take them off there? Remove the battery and replace the whole setup with new wires? Use penetrating oil. It 'will' get in there, the rubber cap isn't sealed. Then a pair of vise grips will loosen it. You can grab the whole cable end and try turning that too. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > I need some advice. > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > echo*ohce Hi guys - single female looking for some help! Am having the same problem with the battery in my 1993 Saburban. The battery actually exploded and I couldn't get the positive connection off because the bolt is stripped. Am headed to WalMart to look for the bolt removal tool mentioned below and buy a new battery. If I can't get the postive connection off, can I cut the wire and splice it? Is there anything special I need to know to do that? Thanks!! >I need some advice. > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > >echo*ohce |
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