Well, I've gone and done it again. :-(
I was drilling a frozen exhaust stud out of an aluminum cylinder head and I
drilled too deep right through the bottom of the hole into the water jacket.
Is there any inexpensive way to repair this folly? The head in question is
off a '90 VW Corrado 1.8L 8valve.
Regards,
Brent
Tim Kettring - 18 Oct 2004 05:39 GMT
I wonder if JB-Weld would fix it.
Brent <NONE@NOSPAM.COM> wrote in article
<10n6g4e62j7pf53@corp.supernews.com>...
> Well, I've gone and done it again. :-(
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> Regards,
> Brent
Ted Mittelstaedt - 18 Oct 2004 06:19 GMT
> Well, I've gone and done it again. :-(
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Is there any inexpensive way to repair this folly? The head in question is
> off a '90 VW Corrado 1.8L 8valve.
You don't really need to repair this. All you need to do is coat the
threads of
the new exhaust stud with a liberal amount of high-temp RTV silicon. The
stud
will block the hole.
Ted
Dave Baker - 18 Oct 2004 07:49 GMT
>Subject: Alum cyl head repair
>From: "Brent" NONE@NOSPAM.COM
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>Is there any inexpensive way to repair this folly? The head in question is
>off a '90 VW Corrado 1.8L 8valve.
As long as the stud thread doesn't leak it isn't an issue. Loctiting the stud
in is probably as good a way as any to ensure this. Silicone sealant is
another. Maybe even both. There should be a good 1/4" below the bottom the stud
and the start of the water jacket. Squirt a suitably sized i.e. small dollop of
silicone into the hole and wind the stud in which will push the silicone down
into a plug at the bottom. Let this set for 24 hours, take the stud back out,
clean it up and loctite it back in. Don't use so much silicone it pushes into
the water jacket and blocks that too.
You could also do the same with araldite or JB Weld instead of silicone.

Signature
Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines (www.pumaracing.co.uk)
el Diablo - 18 Oct 2004 11:15 GMT
> Well, I've gone and done it again. :-(
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> Regards,
> Brent
If the whole is visible from the water jacket side (I know probably not) I'd
attempt to get a weld shop to try and seal it before you install it. You may
also have them fill the whole and have the stud location then drilled and
tapped. If it's worth fixing I'd probably get it welded.
Aluminum is easy to weld, you just need to know how.
Brian
Dave Baker - 18 Oct 2004 12:25 GMT
>Subject: Re: Alum cyl head repair
>From: "el Diablo" nomail@spam.not
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>also have them fill the whole and have the stud location then drilled and
>tapped.
Do you think he should weld the whole whole or the hole hole or the whole hole
or the hole whole? So many decisions to make, so little time.

Signature
Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines (www.pumaracing.co.uk)
el Diablo - 19 Oct 2004 00:09 GMT
> >Subject: Re: Alum cyl head repair
> >From: "el Diablo" nomail@spam.not
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> Do you think he should weld the whole whole or the hole hole or the whole hole
> or the hole whole? So many decisions to make, so little time.
Yeah yeah, I see it now. It doesn't take a hole lot of wholes in my head to
understand. ;-)
Brian
Steve W. - 18 Oct 2004 20:14 GMT
> Well, I've gone and done it again. :-(
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> Regards,
> Brent
Brent, If the head is off the car you could weld the hole shut. However
if it is still installed the easiest way to repair it would be to tap
new threads all the way through the hole using a bottoming tap. Leave a
SMALL area that isn't threaded at the very bottom. Make up a plug for
the hole by cutting a short piece off of a bolt of the correct size. Cut
it off grind it nice and clean. Cut a screwdriver slot on one side that
is just deep enough so you can turn it. Now coat the threads with a
coating of Loctite and screw it into place. Let it set a bit and then
measure the bolt that is going into that hole so that your sure it
doesn't bottom out. When you reinstall that bolt give it a light coat of
sealant.
Easy and quick.
Oh and next time Measure another bolt and mark the drill !!!!!
Steve - 18 Oct 2004 21:20 GMT
> Well, I've gone and done it again. :-(
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Is there any inexpensive way to repair this folly? The head in question is
> off a '90 VW Corrado 1.8L 8valve.
Are you sure the stud hole was "blind" in the first place? Exhaust studs
typically DO penetrate to the water jacket on many engines. Maybe you
just drilled all the way through the stud.
Re-thread or helicoil the hole (using hi-temp silicone or loctite on the
outside of the helicoil) and then immediately install the stud and coat
it with high-temp silicone as well.