Possible impending trans failure or CV joint(s) going out. Does it
get worse if you turn one way or the other?
Mike,
I was worried about transmission problems (ie final drive) or CV/axle
problems, but someone mentioned wheel bearing problems. I was able to
replicate the noise after jacking up the car and putting it into gear,
and it appeared to be coming from the right front. So then I take it
to a shop and they inform me it's the left front wheel bearing. Fine,
something about traveling noise and easy to get the side wrong,
whatever. But when they told me it would be $400 to replace a $100 hub
and wheel bearing assembly (that only takes 1 hour and 4 bolts of labor
to replace), I started getting suspicious. And when I went to pick it
up last night, they hadn't replaced it because they said my rotors were
so old they would be too difficult to remove without damaging. They
would have to replace both rotors since you shouldn't replace just one,
and I had the more expensive vented rotors. Can you believe this? A
mechanic can't remove rotors from a 3 year old car because of excessive
rust?? What a load!! Instead of laughing at him, I got my car back,
ordered a new hub/bearing assembly for $85 (instead of the $250 parts
charge the mechanic wanted), and plan to do the job myself this
afternoon. I expect to save over $500 by doing it myself. We'll just
see if a little penetrating oil can't loosen up those rotors.
> > I have a noise in my car's engine compartment that is related to speed (no
> > noise when stationary), not related to engine rpm, and changes pitches as
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> > Greg
> Possible impending trans failure or CV joint(s) going out. Does it
> get worse if you turn one way or the other?
MyStang428CJ - 07 Feb 2005 05:23 GMT
I hate mechanics like that, they give us decent, honest mechanics a bad
name. When your taking off the rotors dont be afraid to hit them in
between the lug studs with a hammer, it'll help loosen the rust and
usually loosens the rotor. Good luck.
gbannish@aol.com - 08 Feb 2005 03:46 GMT
Well I did the job myself this past weekend and to be fair, the rotor
in question was really seized on there good. I wish I had read and
tried your "hammer between the lug nuts" suggestion. After 1/2 can of
PB spray lubricant and a zillion blows with a rubber hammer, I started
beating on it big time with a sledge. The rotor started to shatter,
but it still wouldn't come off. Finally, I loosened the bolts holding
the hub/wheel bearing assembly to the spindle (those were the 3
tightest bolts I've ever dealt with) and used a gear puller to pull the
rotor (with hub attached) off of the car. Once off, it took several
full swings with a sledge to remove the rotor from the hub. I didn't
need to separate them at that point since both parts were now being
replaced, it was more out of curiousity at that point.
I'm not so pissed at the mechanic for failure to separate the rotor
(although one would hope a real mechanic could do this), but I am
annoyed that he misdiagnosed the problem. When I pulled off the wheels
to replicate the noise, it was coming from the right side (not the
left). I wish I hadn't believed him when he insisted it was the left
side. Oh well, live and learn.
Thanks,
Greg
> I hate mechanics like that, they give us decent, honest mechanics a bad
> name. When your taking off the rotors dont be afraid to hit them in
> between the lug studs with a hammer, it'll help loosen the rust and
> usually loosens the rotor. Good luck.