drove around all day, went to start car later and it just did nothing..no
clicks, nothing.
Fuel pump did kick on, and so are all accessories.
heres what I did:
checked battery of course, cables are all tight, no corrosion.
checked ground to motor, it was good and tight.
starter wires are all tight too.
So I jumped it with my truck..no go..car didn't even try to crank.
now heres the kicker, I then got my battery charger and put it on
"boost"..car started immediatly. I then drove car around for awhile,
I then unhooked battery to see if altternator was charging. car didn't die,
so apparently Alternator is fine.
car ran and started fine for 2 days. today, I went to a friends house, car
started fine.
Upon leaving .. it wouldn't start again. Same symptoms as before.
so I replaced battery, thinking it may be bad.
still nothing!
I got my charger out of trunk, set it to "boost"..and bingo..car started
immediately.
so what do you guys think? starter needing a burst of juice to crank? any
ideas?

Signature
d
« Paul » - 21 Feb 2005 00:56 GMT
> drove around all day, went to start car later and it just did nothing..no
> clicks, nothing.
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> so what do you guys think? starter needing a burst of juice to crank? any
> ideas?
Dirty / corroded battery cables.
Billy Bad Assr? - 21 Feb 2005 01:01 GMT
> so what do you guys think? starter needing a burst of juice to crank? any
> ideas?
Starter cables -- perhaps their loose, perhaps solenoid contact plate is
cracked, burnt or perhaps starter brushes/commutator overheated at some point
causing a black-spot on the commutator -- I'd pull the starter and have a good
look at it - check the operation out of the car -- dismantle the starter, have a
look inside -- see any bluish color on the commutator -- would indicate that the
(starter had been engaged for an extended period) commutator may have overheated
at some point i.e. something has got to give -- you can use a millimeter to
check the com - resistance setting!
BBA
Steve W. - 21 Feb 2005 14:41 GMT
Bad battery cable. Probably corroded just about of inside the end. Very
common problem. Replace both cables.
Oh and unhooking the battery to test the alternator is a VERY bad idea.
That is a great way to fry the computer and destroy the alternator.

Signature
Steve Williams
> drove around all day, went to start car later and it just did nothing..no
> clicks, nothing.
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> so what do you guys think? starter needing a burst of juice to crank? any
> ideas?
Swabbie - 21 Feb 2005 21:28 GMT
well...fixed the problem by replacing the starter.
I had NAPA test it, it wouldn't spin.
replaced it, and haven't had a problem since.
thanks for all the help guys
> Bad battery cable. Probably corroded just about of inside the end. Very
> common problem. Replace both cables.
[quoted text clipped - 37 lines]
> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
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HLS - 22 Feb 2005 14:41 GMT
> well...fixed the problem by replacing the starter.
> I had NAPA test it, it wouldn't spin.
> replaced it, and haven't had a problem since.
> thanks for all the help guys
Thanks for the feedback. If it happens again, I agree with the other
posters about the battery cable...these can cause a lot of intermittent
start problems and are not obvious.
My 90 Reatta (which has an electrical system from hell) suffered from
intermittent starts, and I believe replacing the cable end has fixed it.
Other
problems which can crop up include ignition key code read errors, vile
tempered antitheft device, etc.
Swabbie - 25 Feb 2005 19:42 GMT
true..well its been almost a week..and I have no problems with it. so this
time it WAS the starter.
thanks for all the tips though..I appreciate it
>> well...fixed the problem by replacing the starter.
>> I had NAPA test it, it wouldn't spin.
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> problems which can crop up include ignition key code read errors, vile
> tempered antitheft device, etc.