93 civic turns over but won't start

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brettellingson@yahoo.com - 23 Feb 2005 15:57 GMT

Hello,

I've looked at quite a few posts plus I've read, re-read and read
some more of a Haynes service manual and am about at the end of my
rope. Thanks for any help you can offer.

Here's my story:
I drove my 93 civic to work last week and at lunch it wouldn't
start. It would turn over but that was it.

I had it towed home and a friend came over and we checked a few things.
The timing belt seems to look fine. We unscrewed a vent type of nut
from the top of the fuel filter and turned over the engine and gas was
coming out.

Then we checked for sparks on the wires. We didn't have any sparks.
So we started looking at the distributor.

We couldn't see anything obvious so I picked up a ohmmeter/voltmeter
and tested the coil. It seemed to fail the test the book mentions so I
bought another coil. Also, I bought new plugs, new rotor and new cap
and fuel filter (they haven't been replace for too many miles
anyway). I installed all of the above stuff I bought and the car still
won't start.

The sound it makes now, after the new coil, rotor & cap are installed,
when it turns over is a bit different. Sounds like it almost wants to
catch, but doesn't. I checked 2 of the wires (1 & 2) and they both
have a spark going to them. One thing I want to check is to go ahead
and check the other 2 wires. But my guess is that they are fine too. I
say this because I checked the resistance of the wires with my new
ohmmeter and they seemed to check out; that's why I didn't go ahead
and buy new wires.

But the big problem is: the car still won't start!!

So, is it something maybe with the fuel too? I can hear the pump kick
on when I turn the ignition switch on and fuel comes out. One test in
the book says to attach a fuel pressure test kit and test for pressure
(but that's another $30 and 3 hours of time).

I still haven't checked the ICM, but could the distributor be
producing a spark to the wires without the ICM working correctly? As it
stands it seems like maybe I should take back the new coil and get an
entire distributor and put the new one in and see if that would work.
The one in there now is also a replacement I had put in about 3 years
ago. It's one from a 95 honda civic.

At this point I'm ready to go ahead and let a shop look at it. I let
a friend talk me into trying to get it started at home but it's been
over a week since it broke down and I have a spare vehicle to use to
get around but I need my work car back. I'd rather learn to fix it
because it's totally paid for and I would like to continue using my
beloved honda as long as possible.

The car has 196,000 miles or so.

Thanks for any help you can give to save my sanity and get my car
fixed.

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E. Meyer - 23 Feb 2005 17:19 GMT

On 2/23/05 9:57 AM, in article
1109174265.372051.274550@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com,

> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 55 lines]
> Thanks for any help you can give to save my sanity and get my car
> fixed.

Take the cap off the distributor and crank the engine while somebody
watches. If the rotor doesn't turn, you probably have a broken timing belt.
You don't say how you checked the timing belt, so it might be worth another
look.

The master relay powers the electric fuel pump. Since you hear the pump run
when you turn it on, the relay is probably OK.

So focus on why is there no spark.

All the classical reasons for no spark apply. A couple of Honda specific
reasons include the igniter and the ignition switch.

Check the Igniter. See
http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howto/electrical/igniter/igniter.htm

The ignition switch is also a possibility. It is screwed to the back of the
key cylinder with two small phillips head screws. Take it off & pop it
open. If you see evidence of burned contacts, this is probably the problem.
Clean it up and it should run long enough to drive to the dealer and buy a
new one (about $30).

Reply to this Message

Winston - 24 Feb 2005 02:15 GMT

(...)

> Here's my story:
> I drove my 93 civic to work last week and at lunch it wouldn't
> start. It would turn over but that was it.

(...)

Has the timing belt slipped a cog?
The Honda interference engine tends to crash the pistons into the
valves if the timing belt slips too much or breaks.

1) When was the last time the belt was replaced?
2) If within the last 60 K miles or so, how can you check to see
that the timing belt is still positioned correctly?
3) That 'different noise' might be the fact that the valves are
opening at the wrong time or worse, have bent due to a piston
crash because of a slipped belt.

--Winston

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TeGGer? - 24 Feb 2005 03:07 GMT

> Hello,
>
> I've looked at quite a few posts plus I've read, re-read and read
> some more of a Haynes service manual and am about at the end of my
> rope. Thanks for any help you can offer.

Two things to try: First, turn key on (but NOT to Start!) so Check Engine
light comes on. Wait for it to go off. Turn key off, then on again, wait,
then off. Repeat a dozen times. Now try to start.

Didn't work? Second method:

Listen VERY carefully to the area under the dash, to the left of the
steering wheel, as you turn the key.

1) Turn key to ON (but not start): Check Engine light comes on. You should
hear a CLICK from the EFI Main Relay
2) Check engine light goes off: Another CLICK from Main Relay
3) Turn key to START: Final CLICK from Main Relay.

Do you hear any of those clicks?

It may be helpful to put your hand under the dash behind the coin box and
touch the relay to feel the clicks.

If you hear all the clicks, start suspecting the ignition switch. How new
is your key? A worn key can cause this too.

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#stalling

Signature

TeGGeR?

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

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