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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / June 2005

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Briggs & Stratton Intermittant miss, carburator & Ignition ok, it's the Flywheel key !

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ausmartin@hotmail.com - 18 Jun 2005 09:25 GMT
Intermittant miss issue.

My Briggs & Stratton engines are from the 1980's &
I have found the Magnatron transistorised ignition is extremly
reliable, but have cleaned carburators every 5 years from crap &
getting a bit gumy. One them suffers from the zinc metal warping -
effecting tank seal.

I tested if it's the iginition by
Getting an old neon timing light and some clear tubing to allow a .166"
gap between the spark plug and tester electrode if it jumps that and
the engine runs (Remember a Magatron equiped unit requires min 250RPM
to spark)
If you think the cut off wire is shorting disconect it and fire it up
-you need a wooden broom handle handy to disconnect the spark plug boot
to kill the engine though after the test.

The Coil should measure 2500 - 5000 Ohm from spark plug lead to ground
No Ohm reading or much less than 2500 Ohm mean either lead or coil
replacment.

My ran and missed badly indication ignition issues, however the spark
was there ALL the time.

In My case the Engine had come to hard stop several times - as it's a
shredder and the FLYWHEEL KEY was partial sheared causing the timing to
be way off.
So unscrewing the starter clutch using a brass drift and then a 3
legged puller the sheared key was revealed.

After replacing the key with a new genuine B&S aluminium key all was
100%
The reason they are aluminium is to protect the crankshaft from a
sudden high speed stop by allowing the flywheel to shear the key rather
than twist the crank.

I really like B&S Engines except for there Pulsejet carburator with the
zinc warping issues. They do a lot of work between major services.
I was looking into Honda but after finding out you still need to decoke
them and they contain an internal timming belt I have lost  interest in
them at least with B&S you can get parts easly.

Hope this saves someone some time & money.
N8N - 18 Jun 2005 12:56 GMT
> Intermittant miss issue.
>
[quoted text clipped - 39 lines]
>
> Hope this saves someone some time & money.

Hmm, I missed your original post - sadly for you - as I have seen this
issue before.  I used to live in a rented house that had a very rocky
yard, and my landlord lived across the street.  He had several
lawnmowers (kept in my garage; we'd both just grab one whenever we
needed it) and I replaced many flywheel keys on them - I think they
sheared whenever the blade hit a particularly big rock, and eventually
the timing would drift far enough the engine would run rough.  This is
both with B&S and Tecumseh engines.

There was one engine that I couldn't remove the flywheel on with any
tool in my arsenal... I don't remember which engine that was though.
Must have partially welded itself to the crank when it spun.  Yeah,
they were hard on equipment...

nate
Ted Mittelstaedt - 19 Jun 2005 07:02 GMT
> Hmm, I missed your original post - sadly for you - as I have seen this
> issue before.  I used to live in a rented house that had a very rocky
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> the timing would drift far enough the engine would run rough.  This is
> both with B&S and Tecumseh engines.

I've never had this problem - both my lawnmowers are belt-driven
blades on them which prevents shocks like that from busting the
keys.  Most of the vertical rotary units are belt drives,
but the mower I use is an old Allis Chalmers lawnmower that is a
regular flat mower.

Ted
John S. - 20 Jun 2005 15:04 GMT
> > Hmm, I missed your original post - sadly for you - as I have seen this
> > issue before.  I used to live in a rented house that had a very rocky
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> but the mower I use is an old Allis Chalmers lawnmower that is a
> regular flat mower.

Most of the vertical shaft mowers I've seen have the blade attached
directly to the crankshaft, thus the need for a shear key.  Rider
mowers and multi-blade mowers will have some sort of indirect drive to
the blade(s).

> Ted
John S. - 18 Jun 2005 15:19 GMT
Yeah, a sheared key can be the last thing we look for.  I spent a
couple of hours once looking fruitlessly for a more expensive cause of
the problem. Fortunately they are a cheap part.
chip - 21 Jun 2005 01:16 GMT
>Yeah, a sheared key can be the last thing we look for.  I spent a
>couple of hours once looking fruitlessly for a more expensive cause of
>the problem. Fortunately they are a cheap part.

a sheared key is an easy diag, when you pull the cord and it kicks
back you know right away what it is. i've seen them sheared far
enough, that the kick shattered the plastic handle.
                                  Chip
Daniel J. Stern - 21 Jun 2005 01:47 GMT
> >Yeah, a sheared key can be the last thing we look for.  I spent a
> >couple of hours once looking fruitlessly for a more expensive cause of
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> you know right away what it is. i've seen them sheared far enough, that
> the kick shattered the plastic handle.

On the other hand, it's very easy to shatter the plastic handle *without*
a sheared key, if the engine is equipped with that asinine vertical-pull
starter Briggs used for a few decades.
John S. - 21 Jun 2005 13:27 GMT
A kickback isn't always a good diagnosis of a sheared key.  I've seen
old Briggs & Tecumsehs kick back for no good reason.
 
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