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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / June 2005testing relay?
Have a horn relay. Haynes manual does not show wiring diagram. Following is stamped on relay GE 70 DC12V20A N.O. IMASEN 8J-26 One pair of contacts is marked N.O. COIL Other pair is marked COM COIL Any suggestion which pair is control and which is power? Can I test with VOM (voltmeter), jumnper wires, test light? The relay has a couple of plastic tabs on it so I might be able to remove the cover and look inside as a last resort but am concerned about ruining relay. It's off an '89 Festiva and the parts stores I called can't get a replacement (at least not the parts book replacement). Was able to remove horn and test by connecting directly to battery. Horn works. Tested horn circuit with test light. No light at horn end when horn button pressed. Suspect relay. Have removed relay. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned The coil connections are the trigger and should show some continuity with a meter on ohms. This need 12 volts and a ground to energize the coil and close the connection. It doesn't usually matter which is power and ground on the coil. The N.O. is 'normally open' and should be hooked to the horn wire. The com is the input power from the steering column that will connect to the N.O. when power runs through the coil. Opening up the relay is a good idea though. You can see if the contacts are burned or the coil looks melted. You 'can' wire in a standard Bosch relay, but you might have to reposition the wires. I use crimp on spade connectors to do that. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Have a horn relay. Haynes manual does not show wiring diagram. > Following is stamped on relay [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm > warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned > Have a horn relay. Haynes manual does not show wiring diagram. http://u225.torque.net/haynes_instructions.html > One pair of contacts is marked N.O. COIL > Other pair is marked COM COIL You're misreading the markings, as it seems. I think you've actually got two "coil" contacts, an "N.O." contact and a "COM" contact. The two "coil" contacts are the triggers, what you are calling "control", 85 and 86 in DIN nomenclature (interchangeable since this is obviously a relay without a suppressor diode). The "N.O." would be the contact that goes live when power is applied across the coil (DIN 87), while the "COM" would be the high-current power input (DIN 30). > Can I test with VOM (voltmeter), jumnper wires, test light? Put 12v across the two "coil" contacts and listen for a click. If you get a click, leave 12v hooked up across the coil and use a VOM to measure the resistance across "COM" and "N.O". It should be negligible (essentially zero). > concerned about ruining > relay. Don't worry so much about it. If you apply 12v across any combination other than the two "coil" terminals, you won't burn anything up, it's just that nothing will happen. > It's off an '89 Festiva and the parts stores I called can't get > a replacement (at least not the parts book replacement). Exact replacement not needed. Get a standard relay (Bosch 0 332 019 151 comes to mind) and bracket (Hella 87123, for instance) and terminals (Hella 87272). Terminals will be labelled 85, 86, 30, 87. See above for breakout. You don't even need to buy this relay new; go hit a junkyard. DS ag384@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (William R. Watt) writes in article <d9uj08$jgo$1@theodyn.ncf.ca> dated 29 Jun 2005 16:41:44 GMT: >Have a horn relay. Haynes manual does not show wiring diagram. >Following is stamped on relay [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >Any suggestion which pair is control and which is power? >Can I test with VOM (voltmeter), jumnper wires, test light? Others have explained what these connections mean, I'll add some test procedures. First take the relay off and test the rest of the circuit as follows: 1. Jumper the N.O. and COM connections, and you should hear the horn. 2. Have an assistant press the horn button inside the car, and you should be able to measure some voltage across the 2 COIL connections. Probably 12V, given what is stamped on the relay. 3. If those both work, use jumpers to apply 12V across the 2 COIL connections on the relay. Measure the resistance from N.O. to COM. It should be 0 when the coil is energized and infinite when it's not. -- spud_demon -at- thundermaker.net The above may not (yet) represent the opinions of my employer. Thanks. That was great. The relay checked out OK. The problem was a bad circuit ground. I'll print off a copy of the diagnostic procedures for future reference, and give a copy to the owner of the local independent parts shop. He's good at helping people with problems and coming up with low cost repairs. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned >Have a horn relay. Haynes manual does not show wiring diagram. >Following is stamped on relay > GE 70 > DC12V20A > N.O. > IMASEN > 8J-26 >One pair of contacts is marked N.O. COIL >Other pair is marked COM COIL If you don't know the different between a coil and a contact, you have no business doing electrical troubleshooting. |
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