Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / July 2005
Dead Toyota won't budge
|
|
Thread rating:  |
Julie P. - 04 Jul 2005 15:42 GMT Hi, I have a 1985 Corolla LE that has been unoperational for about 2-1/2 years now, due to a fuel delivery/carburetor problem most likely. It has been sitting in my driveway all this time (dirt and grass). I intend to get it operational sometime this summer, hopefully. But for various reasons, the car needs to moved now to another spot in the driveway, about 30 feet away.
I tried to push the car myself (put the automatic transmission in neutral, ignition unlocked, parking brake was off--and always has been), but the car would not budge. I realize I am a girl, but I should have been able to at least get it to move a little. The driveway is fairly level in that area, and there was nothing blocking the wheels. (I did pump the brake pedal a few times before attempting to move the car--maybe the pads got stuck against the rotors?)
So I got the handyman to help me push the car, but even then, after three attempts, we could not get it to budge, either forward or backwards!
When I first had the car towed to my driveway a year ago, between the tow truck guy and myself, we were able to push the car into the right spot. It was hard, but the car did move.
So I am just wondering what could have happened between then and now to make it immovable?
Thanks!
Julie
Julie P. - 04 Jul 2005 16:03 GMT > So I am just wondering what could have happened between then and now to > make > it immovable? Also, the handyman said he would use his truck and a chain next week to help pull the car out. Where would be the best place to attach a chain? There are two front loops to hook a chain under or near the front bumper, but I am worried it would not be strong enough, due to rust. Could a chain be strung around one of the front control arms?
Julie P. - 04 Jul 2005 16:06 GMT > So I am just wondering what could have happened between then and now to > make > it immovable? An idea that comes to mind is to use two jacks, and put one under each control arm, where the struts are. And then move the car this way. But would it be hard to roll the jacks through dirt and grass?
Or are wheel dollies expensive?
sdlomi2 - 04 Jul 2005 16:40 GMT >> So I am just wondering what could have happened between then and now to >> make > it immovable? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Or are wheel dollies expensive? Sounds like you need a tow truck to move(drag?) it. Brakes possibly seized to the rotors/drums from sitting so long. Sorry, but jacks likely will not roll thru the dirt and grass. s
Julie P. - 04 Jul 2005 20:26 GMT >>> So I am just wondering what could have happened between then and now to >>> make > it immovable? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > seized to the rotors/drums from sitting so long. Sorry, but jacks likely > will not roll thru the dirt and grass. s Thanks sdlomi! I'll see if I can unseize the rear drum brake shoes.
Mike Romain - 04 Jul 2005 16:29 GMT The brake pads or shoes can swell from humidity and end up stuck to the drums or rotor, most likely the rear drums though. A couple hits with a big hammer usually does the trick. We has a stuck van in the driveway for 2 years and just had to use a 10 lb sledge to get the back wheels moving again. Upon inspection, the parts were new, but the shoes had stuck to the drums.
Oh, a tow truck just dragged it skidding, they wouldn't release that way.
Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Hi, I have a 1985 Corolla LE that has been unoperational for about 2-1/2 > years now, due to a fuel delivery/carburetor problem most likely. It has [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > Julie Julie P. - 04 Jul 2005 20:25 GMT > The brake pads or shoes can swell from humidity and end up stuck to the > drums or rotor, most likely the rear drums though. A couple hits with a > big hammer usually does the trick. We has a stuck van in the driveway > for 2 years and just had to use a 10 lb sledge to get the back wheels > moving again. Upon inspection, the parts were new, but the shoes had > stuck to the drums. Thanks Mike! Where did you hammer it? Did you bang the rear hub or wheels on the front, or on the drum itself?
I hope it is this simple. :)
Mike Romain - 04 Jul 2005 22:57 GMT On the wheels themselves 'usually' works, they(mine) were steel rims. One side was off anyway for something else so we hit the drum face a couple times. The heavy solid impact from a big hammer normally will crack thing loose.
I doubt the front wheels are seized. If they are you take off the wheel and use a small pry bar or large screwdriver to push the caliper piston back in and just tap the pads with a small hammer and and they will move.
Mike
> > The brake pads or shoes can swell from humidity and end up stuck to the > > drums or rotor, most likely the rear drums though. A couple hits with a [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > I hope it is this simple. :) Julie P. - 05 Jul 2005 00:35 GMT > On the wheels themselves 'usually' works, they(mine) were steel rims. > One side was off anyway for something else so we hit the drum face a [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > back in and just tap the pads with a small hammer and and they will > move. Hey thanks Mike!
Here is an update:
You guys were right: both rear wheels were frozen to the brake shoes.
I got the right-side wheel free after hammering on the drum; however, the left side is only partially free. I managed to get the drum off by hammering and prying with a screwdriver, but when I put the drum back on, I have trouble spinning the wheel. I can spin it about a half-turn either way, and then it locks up completely. It becomes really stiff. I tried hammering the shoe assemblies in various directions, but this did not help.
So I put both wheels back on, and thee results were better, but I still could only push the car about 1/2 foot (by myself).
I plan to check the front wheels tomorrow, but I don't know what else to do to free the left rear wheel, other than remove the shoes themselves. Who knows how hard that will be, although the brake lines back there look surprisingly well, considering the car is 20 years old! Anyone else have any other advice or ideas?
On the positive side, my new cordless impact wrench works nicely, although it takes a little longer to remove nuts, since it is only 170 ft. lbs., but it is not as noisy as my electric one. I did manage to chip up my 13/16" socket though by hammering on it after the lugnut got stuck. It seems that my once 13/16" lugnuts are now 21 mm (7/8") due to the rust!!
Mike Romain - 05 Jul 2005 03:24 GMT > > On the wheels themselves 'usually' works, they(mine) were steel rims. > > One side was off anyway for something else so we hit the drum face a [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > socket though by hammering on it after the lugnut got stuck. It seems that > my once 13/16" lugnuts are now 21 mm (7/8") due to the rust!! The shoes should have an adjustment so you can back them off a bit to make a looser fit or you can sand the drums with sandpaper to get rid of the stuck on junk. Usually a star wheel that turns at the bottom is the adjustment, but I am not sure on yours.
Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Julie P. - 05 Jul 2005 04:17 GMT >> > On the wheels themselves 'usually' works, they(mine) were steel rims. >> > One side was off anyway for something else so we hit the drum face a [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] > the stuck on junk. Usually a star wheel that turns at the bottom is the > adjustment, but I am not sure on yours. Hi Mike, thanks! If I find the front wheels are not the problem tomorrow, then I will try sanding the drum or adjusting the shoes as you suggested. I'm just trying not to make this into a major job, since all I want to do for now is just move the &%$#%^ car a few feet. :-)
Julie
Mike Romain - 05 Jul 2005 14:47 GMT > >> > On the wheels themselves 'usually' works, they(mine) were steel rims. > >> > One side was off anyway for something else so we hit the drum face a [quoted text clipped - 54 lines] > > Julie As long as you don't breath on the brake pedal, you can just leave the drum off to move the car a couple feet....
The wheel nuts might not fit tight, but for a couple feet it shouldn't damage anything.
Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Julie P. - 06 Jul 2005 03:28 GMT > As long as you don't breath on the brake pedal, you can just leave the > drum off to move the car a couple feet.... > > The wheel nuts might not fit tight, but for a couple feet it shouldn't > damage anything. Thanks Mike! If I can't manage to adjust the shoes or sand the drum, this is what I will do then. I would never have thought of this! It rained here today, so I didn't get anything done. But maybe tomorrow!
Julie
wws - 04 Jul 2005 20:44 GMT > Hi, I have a 1985 Corolla LE that has been unoperational for about 2-1/2 > years now, due to a fuel delivery/carburetor problem most likely. It has [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > > Or are wheel dollies expensive? Yes. Jack the rear end up and try to turn the wheels. If they are stuck use a GBH( great big hammer ) cinder block or the like and teach it who is boss.
Julie P. - 04 Jul 2005 21:33 GMT >> Hi, I have a 1985 Corolla LE that has been unoperational for about 2-1/2 >> years now, due to a fuel delivery/carburetor problem most likely. It has [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > If they are stuck use a GBH( great big hammer ) cinder block or the like > and teach it who is boss. Well, I've been looking for an excuse to use my new cordless impact wrench anyway. so I might as well give it a try :)
|
|
|