 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / July 2005Removing GM Intake Manifold Heater Hose Outlet Nipple
96 Chev Truck 4.2 V6 - 160,000 miles. It was seeping water out of the bottom of the aluminium nipple thing that has a quick disconnect attached to it. When I touched it, the nipple snapped off flush with the manifold. My question is, what is the best way to get the rest of the nipple out of there? Looks like an Ease-out might do it but I thought there may be some other techniques. The remnants are highly corroded and soft. Also, if little bits of aluminium fall down into the hole, will this damage the motor in any way? I thought about heating it with a torch to see if the aluminium would melt out of the threads or maybe threading a steel nipple in there to push the rest of the nipple down into the manifold? Thanks, Libby > 96 Chev Truck 4.2 V6 - 160,000 miles. It was seeping water out of the > bottom of the aluminium nipple thing that has a quick disconnect [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Thanks, > Libby An easy-out may work, but it will probably crumble the remaining nipple into pieces. Obviously pieces of metal in the intake manifold would be bad, but if they were tiny (dust-like) they shouldn't cause any real problems. It's certainly the lesser of two evils to have a little metal dust in the intake verses the crankcase. Whatever you do, chase the threads when done with a pipe tap. It's either 3/8" or 1/2" NPT thread. Toyota MDT in MO In article <1121172661.270964.195030@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, > 96 Chev Truck 4.2 V6 - 160,000 miles. It was seeping water out of the > bottom of the aluminium nipple thing that has a quick disconnect [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Thanks, > Libby I cut two slots partially thru the threads with a stub of a hacksaw blade, the remainder can be dug out with an awl or ice pick. A shop vac can be used to suck up the debris. It doesn't look like there is enough metal in there to cut any slot in. Maybe I am to the awl point now. This dumb design is shaking my solid allegience to Chevrolet engineering : ) Geeze, if you like *advanced engineering*, try Toyota, GM may well now be the best among the big 3, however. > It doesn't look like there is enough metal in there to cut any slot in. > Maybe I am to the awl point now. This dumb design is shaking my solid > allegience to Chevrolet engineering : ) I'd rather walk. > It doesn't look like there is enough metal in there to cut any slot > in. Maybe I am to the awl point now. This dumb design is shaking my > solid allegience to Chevrolet engineering : ) I'll second Neil's way of doing it. That's the way I get all of these broken nipples out of the manifold. I make 4 cuts, but that's just personal preference. Ian Ok, I am not sure I understand. I have a threaded hole in the manifold that has a hollow soft metal tube threaded into it. Are you guys sawing down into the hole to divide the tube into pieces, or are you sawing across the top to create a "screwdriver" slot into the tube? That second one can't work, not enough metal. The first one seems risky to the steel threads of the manifold. It is risky, but if you are careful, the score will allow a chisel to snap the tube. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Ok, I am not sure I understand. I have a threaded hole in the manifold > that has a hollow soft metal tube threaded into it. Are you guys sawing > down into the hole to divide the tube into pieces, or are you sawing > across the top to create a "screwdriver" slot into the tube? That > second one can't work, not enough metal. The first one seems risky to > the steel threads of the manifold. > 96 Chev Truck 4.2 V6 - 160,000 miles. It was seeping water out of the > bottom of the aluminium nipple thing that has a quick disconnect [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Thanks, > Libby As other posters have suggested, sawing into the remaining nipple, try just ONE slot for starters. And use only pulling strokes with the hacksaw blade so as to minimize filings going into the manifold. Once this slot is cut, use of a punch or awl to peel the remainder out. Often just one slot is sufficient and one scored slot partially thru the manifold threads can easily make a fluid-tight connection, using proper dope when assembling. If the filings-into-manifold concern you so much, you could insert a small rag(or piece of one), with a strong cord attached around a corner for later removal. Holding it firmly against the bottom of the hole, you can carefully remove it, along with many of the filings, when the sawing is completed. Other tips often helpful: grind a single, fine-thread blade, so as to make it narrow enough to allow cutting strokes inside that hole. For a handle, wrap a shop rag around the upper end to make a comfortable, safe handle. HTH & good luck, s OK, I sawed two slots and used an awl to pry out the pieces. Worked like a charm. I could not get it to break loose with the easeout, probably due to lack of strength or leverage. Thanks everyone for your help. Libby > > 96 Chev Truck 4.2 V6 - 160,000 miles. It was seeping water out of the > > bottom of the aluminium nipple thing that has a quick disconnect [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > handle. > HTH & good luck, s > 96 Chev Truck 4.2 V6 - 160,000 miles. It was seeping water out of the > bottom of the aluminium nipple thing that has a quick disconnect [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Thanks, > Libby Just for reference, I have a 96 1/2 ton with 5.7 and had the same problem. I was successful with the easyhout. bb |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.