spots in an enamel paint job

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eganders@yahoo.com - 10 Aug 2005 03:04 GMT

About 10 years ago I used DAR Acrylic Enamel by PPG on my bike and it
turned out great. This evening my son and I painted a new fender panel
on his Sebring with it and it showed promise, but had some really nasty
dimpled spots over most of the area. I had him clean the new panel
with paint thinner before we started, but I did not watch how he
cleaned it. It does not look like the old fashioned "fisheye" because
it is a single dimple, not the ring with a dimple.

* Are the spots caused by incomplete cleaning, water in the line or
what? As I said, we used paint thinner. Should we have used another
cleaner? Should there have been a more thorough cleaning job?
* Can we use 360 or 400 sandpaper to level the paint and then apply
another coat. Or would it be better to sand down and rub out.
* Is there a maximum time limit to put down additional coats?

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Daniel J. Stern - 10 Aug 2005 03:54 GMT

> About 10 years ago I used DAR Acrylic Enamel by PPG on my bike and it
> turned out great. This evening my son and I painted a new fender panel
> on his Sebring with it and it showed promise, but had some really nasty
> dimpled spots over most of the area. I had him clean the new panel with
> paint thinner before we started

Paint thinner isn't even *close* to being an adequate pre-paint cleaning
fluid. It leaves an oily residue that will interfere with paint adhesion
and cause dimples.

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Ted Mittelstaedt - 11 Aug 2005 07:29 GMT

> About 10 years ago I used DAR Acrylic Enamel by PPG on my bike and it
> turned out great. This evening my son and I painted a new fender panel
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> another coat. Or would it be better to sand down and rub out.
> * Is there a maximum time limit to put down additional coats?

If you didn't prime your wasting your time. Paint doesen't stick to
anything
worth sh.t except for primer. To do it right most people blast with walnut
shells, then metal prep, then an acid-etching primer. However you can do
quickie jobs just by wet sanding the existing paint to roughen it up, prime
over that, then paint. Of course the paint will probably peel off in a few
years but you will probably sell the car by then.

There's tons of links out there, Google is your friend.

Ted

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Nate Nagel - 11 Aug 2005 10:48 GMT

>>About 10 years ago I used DAR Acrylic Enamel by PPG on my bike and it
>>turned out great. This evening my son and I painted a new fender panel
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> Ted

also use windex as a final wipe down after the lacquer thinner and
before paint.

nate

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sdlomi2 - 12 Aug 2005 22:11 GMT

PPG should offer a cleaner to use immediately prior to painting. Just
forget the cost--it's cheap when it saves a re-do! If the paint is a
non-metallic color, you can use 400 to wet-sand and then buff out, POSSIBLY
to your satisfaction. If it was metallic, AND you sprayed clear on top, you
can do the same thing.
If it is metallic and NO clear was used, or in any case, you can sand it
and apply coats on top.
ENSURE sanding gets all the dimples, eyes, spots(whatever we call them)
completely flat in any case.
Too much time should not be a factor. A minimum time of several days of
drying should be sufficient for acrylic enamel.
HTH & good luck. s

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