 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / August 2005Strength of Impact Wrench to Remove Caliper Bracket Bolts?
Looks like I better buy an impact wrench since these caliper bracker bolts don't want to come off (used PB, propane torch, etc). I've stripped nuts, broken tools, etc. Basically, what do I need to get the job done as far as specs go on the wrench if I go electric (as far as torque is concerned)? I dont want to spend too much for a wrench that is overkill, but I just want to get the job done right and over with. Thanks, Jim > Looks like I better buy an impact wrench since these caliper bracker > bolts don't want to come off (used PB, propane torch, etc). I've [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Thanks, > Jim Better get a good one: 200-300 ft lbs. I have an old, old Porter-Cable that would cost about $250 today. It comes in handy for field service with a heavy extension cord. A good item to have, although I rarely use it. Nothing says an impact wrench will get the bolts off either now. Perhaps you should think in terms of cutting nuts and drilling bolts. That would not have been the first choice, but now maybe it should be as you can predict you will be done in short order. > Looks like I better buy an impact wrench since these caliper bracker > bolts don't want to come off (used PB, propane torch, etc). I've [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Thanks, > Jim A good breakover bar and * really good sockets or torx bits * are cheaper and you can probably apply more torque. The hammering of an impact wrench is certainly an advantage. I have an electric Hitachi. There are probably better around but I got a good buy on this one on Ebay and it had done everything I could ask of it. > > Looks like I better buy an impact wrench since these caliper bracker > > bolts don't want to come off (used PB, propane torch, etc). I've [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > got a good buy on this one on Ebay and it had done everything I could ask of > it. Get a workshop manual and look up the torque settings for the types of things you work on. Then get a wrench at least 50% higher capacity. 200- 300 ft lbs as another poster suggested sounds about right. >Looks like I better buy an impact wrench since these caliper bracker >bolts don't want to come off (used PB, propane torch, etc). I've >stripped nuts, broken tools, etc. Basically, what do I need to get the >job done as far as specs go on the wrench if I go electric (as far as >torque is concerned)? I dont want to spend too much for a wrench that >is overkill, but I just want to get the job done right and over with. If you've already rounded off the nuts or bolt heads, an impact tool isn't going to be much help. Start looking at a big pair of vise grips, the rounded bolt removers that Sears sells, and at the end just cutting off the nut or grinding the head off the bolt in question. I had a similar situation recently and in the end I just ground off the bolt head with a dremel. Would have saved myself a lot of trouble if I had done that to begin with. "Ryan Underwood" <nemesis@icequake.net> wrote in message > If you've already rounded off the nuts or bolt heads, an impact tool isn't > going to be much help. Start looking at a big pair of vise grips, the rounded > bolt removers that Sears sells, and at the end just cutting off the nut or > grinding the head off the bolt in question. I had a similar situation recently > and in the end I just ground off the bolt head with a dremel. Would have saved > myself a lot of trouble if I had done that to begin with. Sometimes there is no other way, but usually you can loosen these, and most other bolts, by using good tools and judicious technique. Penetrating oil can be a big help, sometimes applied several times over a period of time. (If you see the brake job coming, you can squirt the bolts every evening the whole week before you do the work, and drive it in between. If you cant, you cant) Stay away from the vise grips unless all else fails. These and cheap wrenches bugger up a lot of bolts. If you dont get movement when you try to loosen the bolt, tighten it very slightly and attempt to loosen it again. Sometimes this back and forth movement will give you some movement. Those cheap mechanical impact wrenches can do a good job sometimes. Use a good quality bit or socket, and give it a sharp whack will a ball peen hammer. A poor man's delight, they can save your hiney. Heat helps, but again be judicious. >I had a similar situation recently >and in the end I just ground off the bolt head with a dremel. Would have >saved myself a lot of trouble if I had done that to begin with. Unless it is a small bolt, I would pass on the dremel and get a 4 1/2 grinder to grind it off. I recently had to grind off some exhaust bolts and it was taking me more than 1/2 hour using a dremel tool. I got a 4 1/2" grinder and finished each bolt in less than 5 minutes. the dremel tool is very handy, but sometimes you need something bigger with more power. --------------- Alex drive it to a garage and pay them $20 to "break the bolts loose" and then re-tighten them just enough so you can drive it home Mark |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.