You may get lucky.

A car my parents had blew a radiator hose and overheated. After
refilling the radiator we had coolent coming out the tailpipe.

Get the water pump fixed !

get it fixed then go from their?

if you knew it was leaking you should have fixed it then  ---know it
may cost you mega bucks if it's major motor problems

thanks for keeping the mechanics busy

Aluminum head(s)?  Good luck.  Aluminum block?  Start praying.

Hopefully the motor is not seized.  Try turning it over by hand as a
preliminary assessment.  If is not seized, you can run it for just long
enough to assess its condition even with the bad water pump, once it has been
sitting and is cold.  While it is running, look for steam out the tailpipe,
bubbles in the radiator, oil in the radiator, milky oil, external oil leaks
from HG area, etc.  After running it, shut it down and let it sit.  Remove
the spark plugs and check for water in the cylinders.  If you don't detect
any problems up to this point, it may be worth repairing, but you still may
have a gasket failure in your future.

By the way, it is not a good idea to run a car with a leaking cooling system,
even if the leak is minor.  If it is leaking externally, it is not cooling
effectively, because the coolant's density is decreased as it wants to boil.

Here's a problem.  You don't think a quart every two days could cause
overheating?

Here's a problem.  You have been driving with an inoperative temp
gauge?

Here's a problem.  At this point metal transfer has probably occured
between the pistons and cylinder walls, not to mention cylinder warpage
and extreme heat stress to other vital components such as crank,
bearings, head mating surfaces, and valve guides.

The entire block could be esentially wasted at this point and the head
gaskets could still hold coolant.  Head gaskets don't cause an engine
to seize!

If it starts and runs and doesn't belch oil out the tail pipe and into
the air cleaner housing, then you may have a chance at salvaging the
engine.  If this is the case, you may want to consider the following:
Change the oil and filter, keep a sample of the old oil, run the engine
again for about 15 minutes (keeping radiator topped off) then stop
engine and drain a sample of the "clean oil" and send both samples to
be tested.  If the "clean" sample shows a extrordinary amount of
aluminum, lead, tin, and steel then you will probably want to junk the
engine.  OTOH, if both samples are relatively metal free given their
respective time spent in the engine, then you are *probably* OK and
should proceed with the waterpump and radiator replacement.  And then
fix the temp gauge problem. It's probably just a loose wire or broken
terminal at the sender.

Toyota MDT in MO