Valve-timing must be *EXACTLY* right for things to work. "One tooth off"
is nowhere near "close enough" - there is *ABSOLUTELY NO ROOM* for any
error - It's either set correctly, and the engine runs (although it may
run poorly due to other factors) or it's not, and short of going back in
and redoing the job (PROPERLY this time), nothing you try will get the
engine to run AT ALL. Depending on the engine, one tooth worth of valve
timing error can be enough to punch valves through pistons.

If the timing is screwed up, potential problems range from the quite
mild ("darn, won't start")  to the substantially worse ("It tried to
turn over, but went "CLANK!", and now I can't even rotate the
crankshaft"), to absolute disaster in the form of destruction of the
engine. ("Wow... Look at all these valve-shaped holes in the tops of the
pistons", or "Are you *SURE* valve stems are supposed to look like the
warning sign for a curvy road?", or "I don't recall installing a two
piece camshaft...")

Sounds like you've encountered the "best case" (Won't start) scenario.
Count your blessings (First one being that you didn't punch a valve
through a piston in the process of trying to start a mis-timed engine),
and get back inside to put things back together CORRECTLY.

You are dealing with two different kinds of timing.

First there's valve timing which makes the valves open and close when the
piston reaches certain points in its up-and-down motion. Valve timing is
controlled by the timing belt. For it to work the camshaft and the
crankshaft have to be positioned correctly when the timing belt is installed.

Second there's ignition timing which makes the spark plugs fire when the
piston reaches a certain point in its up-and-down motion. Ignition timing
is controlled by the position of the distributor until the engine warms up
when its finely adjusted on modern computer-controlled engines by the
computer.

When you change a timing belt the ignition timing shouldn't be affected.
At least mine wasn't when I changed the timing belt on my car. I did check
the ignition timing after changing the timing belt and it was fine.

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William R Watt    National Capital FreeNet    Ottawa's free community network
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If there is no spark, then there is something else wrong.
Something may be unplugged.  Ign.mod? Crank sensor? etc.
Even if the cams were way off, there should still be spark.
The engine probably won't start though.
As you know, the distrib runs off of the left (front) bank.
Check the wires.
Put    ford probe engine    into Google.  There is a lot of info
on the 2.5 available.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/9755/engine.htm
BTW: running with one cam tooth off will eventually destroy the engine.