I have a few aluminum rims with tubeless tires that i seem to have
a continuing slow leaking problem. Any tips on how to seal these
up more permanent? Most of the auto parts store seem to just have
the stuff to put in the whole tire to seal punctures. (green slime ?)
I just want to seal the bead area. Some guy at the parts store suggested
Joy dish soap directly rubbed on but i have my doubts about that.
I can break the bead to get to it.
Bob
Kevin Bottorff - 05 Sep 2005 20:46 GMT
> I have a few aluminum rims with tubeless tires that i seem to have
> a continuing slow leaking problem. Any tips on how to seal these
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
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take them off dismount them and clean the rims sealing area with a good
wire brushing, power brush prefered. then use a good rim and tire
lube/sealant on the bead and they will be good for several years again.
be sure to do the valve stem hole also. aluminum corodes and you just
have to clean it up. KB

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Ol' Duffer - 06 Sep 2005 13:39 GMT
> I have a few aluminum rims with tubeless tires that i seem to have
> a continuing slow leaking problem. Any tips on how to seal these
> up more permanent? Most of the auto parts store seem to just have
> the stuff to put in the whole tire to seal punctures. (green slime ?)
> I just want to seal the bead area.
It may be more than the bead that is leaking. Cast aluminum/
magnesium alloys are somewhat porous and prone to leakage.
It used to be common practice to seal the inside of rims with
clear lacquer. I think makers are using a plastic polymer
product now, but I see no reason the old methods wouldn't work
for DIY. Clean and re-seal, should be good for another 5 years.
Marco Licetti - 06 Sep 2005 20:40 GMT
I use Permatex silicone sealant, not as toxic and more enviro friendly than
others, and mos timportant it does what advertised for:
SEALS
Slime is asuch garbage lord!!!! I CURSED THE DAY I BOUGHT THIS THING
CLAIMING TO FIX TIRES, IN FACT I DID FIX TIRE... WITH PERMATEX 9SIMILAR TO
3M SILICONE SEALANT, BLACK) AND ALSO THEIR MORE EXPENSIVE OEM/PROFESSIONAL
VERSION GASKET MAKER BLACK, UNLIKE SLIME.
SLIME WAS WHITE, LOOKED NASTY!! AFTER DRYING IT... DRIED OUT OR SOMETHING,
IT DISAPPEARED I DONT KNOW WHY, THE HOLE WAS COVERED WITH THINN LAYER NO
MATTER HO WMUCH DAMN PASTE I APPLIED IT DRIED AN DAGAIN LOOKS LIKE GARBAGE
SO FO RME PERMATEX AND 3M, ONE OR BOTH
Big Al - 08 Sep 2005 05:32 GMT
>> I have a few aluminum rims with tubeless tires that i seem to have
>> a continuing slow leaking problem. Any tips on how to seal these
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> product now, but I see no reason the old methods wouldn't work
> for DIY. Clean and re-seal, should be good for another 5 years.
Late 80's Mustangs had a problem with porous wheels. They used some kind of
soft paint to seal them. Sorry, I have no idea what it is, but it's light
gray.
Al
Dan Beaton - 08 Sep 2005 13:26 GMT
>>> I have a few aluminum rims with tubeless tires that i seem to have
>>> a continuing slow leaking problem. Any tips on how to seal these
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Al
Some wheel refinishing shops offer a leak repair service. Check the Yellow
Pages under Wheels.
Dan
(This account is not used for email.)
451CTDS - 13 Sep 2005 18:25 GMT
If the problem is old dried out tires, spray the bead with a vinyl
treatment, such as Armor All. Softening the rubber tightens the bead
seal, if that doesn't work, remove the tire, mostly deflate it, and step
on bead as you apply treatment, this lets treatment penetrate bead,
reinflate + reinstall. If that doesn't work, go for the paint job, and
bead sealer.
John S. - 06 Sep 2005 15:06 GMT
> I have a few aluminum rims with tubeless tires that i seem to have
> a continuing slow leaking problem. Any tips on how to seal these
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Bob
Do you know where the leaks are?
Before fixing the rims, be sure to check the stems for a good seal to
the rim, lack of cracking around the base and a correctly functioning
valve.
Bob Urz - 06 Sep 2005 15:31 GMT
>>I have a few aluminum rims with tubeless tires that i seem to have
>>a continuing slow leaking problem. Any tips on how to seal these
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> the rim, lack of cracking around the base and a correctly functioning
> valve.
The particular one i am working on now is off my taurus. It was holding
air fine until a nail got it. I put a patch on the inside and lightly
sanded off the bead rims before putting it back on. I used a manual
harbor freight tire machine to do it. It seems to be leaking less now,
but still a very slow leak.
Now, my 96 S10 aluminum rims seems to only leak when it cold outside.
I have not broke them down yet. Trying to get a plan first.
I really did not want to put the sealer down the valve stem route.
Bob
Bob
John S. - 06 Sep 2005 16:23 GMT
Try to track down where the leak is by putting the wheel with fully
inflated tire in a water tank. Soap can stop tiny leaks for a while,
but don't expect a permanent fix. A varnish like product is not a good
idea because it will harden and crack.
If the Harbor Freight tire machine is a cheaply designed model, then it
could have very well scored the inside rim. Check the inside very
carefully. Also, try rotating the tire to a new position on the rim.
> >>I have a few aluminum rims with tubeless tires that i seem to have
> >>a continuing slow leaking problem. Any tips on how to seal these
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> harbor freight tire machine to do it. It seems to be leaking less now,
> but still a very slow leak.
> Now, my 96 S10 aluminum rims seems to only leak when it cold outside.
> I have not broke them down yet. Trying to get a plan first.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
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. - 06 Sep 2005 15:53 GMT
Put a tube in it and all those problems will be gone.
> I have a few aluminum rims with tubeless tires that i seem to have
> a continuing slow leaking problem. Any tips on how to seal these
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
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* - 06 Sep 2005 16:34 GMT
> Put a tube in it and all those problems will be gone.
Put a tube in it and your problems will be just beginning......
Most tubeless tires have ribs molded into the inside that will quickly
chafe holes in tubes........especially given the flex of a radial tire's
sidewalls......
Fix the actual problem correctly instead of putting a Band-Aid on it.....
. - 06 Sep 2005 17:14 GMT
> > Put a tube in it and all those problems will be gone.
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Fix the actual problem correctly instead of putting a Band-Aid on it.....
What a steaming pile of sh.t. I've used this method
COUNTLESS times, mainly due to bad bead sealing
or side wall punctures, over the decades (including
nearly new tires) with the tires successfully used
until cord was showing.
Marco Licetti - 06 Sep 2005 20:44 GMT
aRE YOU gAY?
. - 06 Sep 2005 21:18 GMT
> aRE YOU gAY?
No. Sorry to disappoint an obviously lonely, Prodigy queen
dipshit from Brooklyn searching newsgroups for a date.
N8N - 06 Sep 2005 21:19 GMT
> > > Put a tube in it and all those problems will be gone.
> >
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> nearly new tires) with the tires successfully used
> until cord was showing.
Related to Judy Diarrhea by any chance?
nate
. - 06 Sep 2005 21:28 GMT
> > > > Put a tube in it and all those problems will be gone.
> > >
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> nate
Probably related to the miscreants
in Westminster, Mass, I'd say.
mperkins - 14 Sep 2005 05:09 GMT
they make a special product called bead sealer. Most pro tire shop have
a can of this stuff by their tire changer. It almost like a rubber
cement. Grey Products is one of many manufactures of this product. Also
the work invovled to break a automotive tire bead is well worth the
money to have a shop do it with the right equipment. You should lso
rebalance your tires after this done. Good Luck.