Those are options, John, but one of the motivations here is to get the
thing out of hear soon. The charity places will tow it, but may take
over a month to get around to it.

Paying to have it towed will be a lot more than I would spend on
refurbing the calipers, so long as I do the work myself. *If* that's
where the problem is. That's why I'm asking.

I hope that explains things.

Thanks,

Mike

Let me respond to all of your posts here:

Thanks Dan. That sounds likeliest, while keeping everyone else's
comments in mind.

John S.,

I hear you, and I don't expect miracles. I'm pretty cynical about my
chances, actually, but I'm holding out for cheapness! <grin>

My next experiment will be to remove the inboard brake pads,
temporarily reinstall the calipers, and apply the brakes to extend the
cylinders. I'll then push them back in with a C-clamp, then repeat a
time or two more.

My hope is the brake fluid will get into the dry parts of the cylinder
and lubricate enough (and break up the rust enough) that they'll
retract again. I don't care if it's not a permanent fix, obviously.

If that doesn't work, I'll probably investigate a tow-bar, which is
something I had *not* thought of before. For *that* suggestion, thank
you Ted! I'll pass on the idea of running with just the rear brakes,
though. <grin> Not that it couldn't work, but it's a little riskier
than I like.

To all, thanks for your comments. I'll work on it and let you know how
it turns out!

Mike D.

No, not so!  The trick is to make sure to have the same stopping distance
as when you have the front brakes.

I'm too lazy to do the math but assumimg your right and that his back brakes
will give him 30% of the stopping distance all he needs to do is drive 30%
of the speed limit and he will have the same stopping distance.  Obviously
the traffic behind him won't care for this so he will need to do this late
at
night, when there's little traffic.  And since the vehicle's been sitting
for
10 years hopefully he doesen't live in a state that has mandatory insurance
because going down a road marked 45Mph at a max speed of  13Mph
is sure to attract attention from the local police.

Another way to do it would be to rent (or build) a tow bar, assuming he
has a trailer hitch on a working car.  He would need an assistant to
ride in the van and push on the van's brakes to make the brake light go on
when he brakes.

Ted

Hey f.ck you a.s hole  RAY the guy just want's to get it to the bone
yard  AND DOES NOT WANT TO PUT NO $$$ INTO IT    ---DID YOU READ THE
POST AND UNDERSTAND YOU FUCKIN  COCKROACH    LIKE HE IS GOING TO BE
DRIVING 50 MPH  TO THE BONE YARD !!!!!!!!!!!!  A MEAR 15  MPH IS JUST
FINE

11. Raymond J. Henry   Sep 11, 9:13 pm     show options

Calipers need to be replaced, is my bet. What causes them to return is
the drag on the seals when the pistons are pushed out. Lay a rubber
band on a table, and gently move your finger slightly over the upward
edge. What you see is basically what the seal in the caliper does, it
"leans over". A good seal will try to return to the straight position,
dragging the piston back with it.

However, don't count on that being the end of it. You may be in need
of new flex lines, The problem could also exist in the master cylinder
or the proportioning valve. A basic test would be to crack the bleeder
when the front brakes are "hung". If the brakes release, you are
looking at more than calipers.

I'd bet on the calipers, personally. But I'd be prepared for more.

Whatever you do, don't block off the front lines, and attempt to drive
it with only rear brakes. You would have only about 30% of your
braking power. Not to mention that if an emergency occurred, and you
had to apply the brakes hard, you might as well have no brakes. With
the weight shifting to the front end, the rear wheels would tend to
lock, and the best that you could hope for is not to get it sideways
before you hit something.

Moving a car anywhere without proper brakes is extremely stupid, and
suggesting anyone do so is a sure sign of some severe mental handicap.

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