I'm a mechanic but never spent much time on air con repairs. I recently
purchased a 1997 GMC Safari but the compressor wouldn't engage so I
figured the 134 was low. I had it charged and it worked great for a day
but there must be a leak. The condenser looked pretty rough so I bought
an excellent one from a low mileage wreck. When I disconnected the
condenser, there was still pressure in the system, not a lot but I would
think if there was a leak, there would be no pressure.
I did try a can of red dye but I can't see any obvious leaks. I don't
want to start throwing parts at this van. Any air con techs out there
have any ideas or the best way to get some cold air from this puppy.
Thanks
Larry
www.rovatune.com
> ... Any air con techs out there
> have any ideas or the best way to get some cold air from this puppy.
Ask at one of these sites. You'll get lots of good info..
http://www.acsource.net/acforum/
and/or
http://www.autoacforum.com/categories.cfm?catid=2
>I did try a can of red dye but I can't see any obvious leaks. I don't
>want to start throwing parts at this van. Any air con techs out there
>have any ideas or the best way to get some cold air from this puppy.
Shaft seal on the compressor is a very common failure. Take it to an
a/c shop that uses a sniffer and have them check for leaks. Well
worth the $30 or so they will charge to let you know where the leak
is.
Steve B.
HLS@nospam.nix - 16 Sep 2005 14:37 GMT
> On Thu, 15 Sep 2005 23:03:37 GMT, Larry Webb
> Shaft seal on the compressor is a very common failure. Take it to an
> a/c shop that uses a sniffer and have them check for leaks. Well
> worth the $30 or so they will charge to let you know where the leak
> is.
>
> Steve B.
I have heard about this situation with GM compressors, Steve. If one had
the inclination,
would it be feasible to adapt a 'better' type of compressor to GM
applications? I know a lot
would depend on space available, etc. Which would be the compressor of
choice if one
wanted to undertake this swap?
Spud Demon - 16 Sep 2005 16:44 GMT
Steve B. <none@none.com> writes in article <jg7ki1pe2t5db7fr5esl8prfbqitdmo5bn@4ax.com> dated Fri, 16 Sep 2005 01:22:56 GMT:
>>I did try a can of red dye but I can't see any obvious leaks. I don't
>>want to start throwing parts at this van. Any air con techs out there
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>worth the $30 or so they will charge to let you know where the leak
>is.
For $30 he can probably get his own leak checker. I was reading my propane
torch manual the other day and there's a similar model that is equipped as
an AC leak detector. The flame changes color when any trace of Cl or F gets
in the air intake. Mine can't be used that way because the flame is too
close to the intake, but the similar model has a hose attachment.
-- spud_demon -at- thundermaker.net
The above may not (yet) represent the opinions of my employer.
HLS@nospam.nix - 16 Sep 2005 17:43 GMT
> For $30 he can probably get his own leak checker. I was reading my propane
> torch manual the other day and there's a similar model that is equipped as
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> -- spud_demon -at- thundermaker.net
> The above may not (yet) represent the opinions of my employer.
I bought one of those things some years ago. For me, it was worthless as
mammaries on turtles,
but they still sell them so I guess they work for some people and some
applications.
Ted Mittelstaedt - 17 Sep 2005 09:13 GMT
> > For $30 he can probably get his own leak checker. I was reading my
> propane
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> but they still sell them so I guess they work for some people and some
> applications.
I didn't think the flame type leak detectors worked on anything other than
chlorinated refrigerants like R12.
Regardless, you can get a good modern electronic leak detector that will do
both R12
and R134 off Ebay for about $50 - I did.
Ted