Trouble taking apart alternator

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Pigeon Hohl - 04 Oct 2005 01:40 GMT

My alternator stopped "alternating", so I took the one out of my
"parts car" to replace it with until I could deal with the problem.
However I did something really idiotic. I broke the positive terminal
bolt. So I have a working alternator that I can't use. I assume that the
stud is a simple carriage bolt, and that I could easily find a
replacement.

A local shop-guy buzzed the pulley bolt off for me using an impact
wrench, and I removed the pulley and the cover. However, I can't get
the main spinning assembly to come out. (the bolt is on the other side)
Could it be that the shaft is stuck in the other bearing due to
corrosion? I put the pulley nut back on and tried tapping outward to try
to free the assembly, but it doesn't seem to want to budge.

Any ideas? And is it a simple matter to replace the stud once I get to
it?

FWIW, the alternator is a Mando, made in Korea. (for a Hyundai Excel)

Pigeon

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Nate Nagel - 04 Oct 2005 02:20 GMT

> My alternator stopped "alternating", so I took the one out of my
> "parts car" to replace it with until I could deal with the problem.
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> Pigeon

why do you need to get the armature out of the front half of the
housing? can't you just replace the stud and be done with it? maybe
I'm not visualizing this correctly.

anyway, yes, that bearing is often a tight fit. I ASSume that there's a
special press for the job, but I usually just use a plastic mallet.
Probably not the right tool for the job but I haven't (touch wood)
screwed one up yet.

nate

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Walter - 04 Oct 2005 03:08 GMT

> A local shop-guy buzzed the pulley bolt off for me using an impact
> wrench, and I removed the pulley and the cover. However, I can't get
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Pigeon

As someone who professionally rebuilt alternators at one time, I feel
qualified to answer this question.

If your alternator is what I'm thinking it is, the pulley nut comes off
and the pulley should come right off. To get the rest of the alternator
apart, though, there are 3 (or 4) other bolts ... sometimes having
phillips type screw heads on them (though a wrench is always easier to
get them out). Once they are out, the rest of the alternator should
come apart.

You didn't say what year car this alternator is for (I'm imagining it's
around 89-93 or so), so I don't know what type battery post is in it ...
but in some cases you can replace the battery stud with a regular bolt
(be sure to replace all the insulators or you're going to have a
problem) and in some cases you can't. I don't know which is which in
this case because I don't have the alternator in front of me.

As a caution, be sure to put the pulley back on with all the spacers and
things or you risk cracking the housing when you put it back together.

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Pigeon Hohl - 05 Oct 2005 23:08 GMT

> You didn't say what year car this alternator is for (I'm imagining it's
> around 89-93 or so), so I don't know what type battery post is in it ...
> but in some cases you can replace the battery stud with a regular bolt
> (be sure to replace all the insulators or you're going to have a
> problem) and in some cases you can't. I don't know which is which in
> this case because I don't have the alternator in front of me.

Hmmm. Perhaps it's possible to use a regular bolt instead of the
original splined stud? Please see my other post with the pics.
It's a Mondo alternator, made in Korea, on a '91 Hyundai Excel.

Pigeon

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Walter - 06 Oct 2005 05:21 GMT

> Hmmm. Perhaps it's possible to use a regular bolt instead of the
> original splined stud? Please see my other post with the pics.
> It's a Mondo alternator, made in Korea, on a '91 Hyundai Excel.
>
> Pigeon

Any bolt will work as long as it's insulated properly. FWIW, when I was
in the business, I'd have sold you the stud you need without trying to
sell you the whole alternator. I don't know what it would've cost, but
it probably would've been a phone call away.

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Paul Hovnanian P.E. - 04 Oct 2005 03:25 GMT

> My alternator stopped "alternating", so I took the one out of my
> "parts car" to replace it with until I could deal with the problem.
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> corrosion? I put the pulley nut back on and tried tapping outward to try
> to free the assembly, but it doesn't seem to want to budge.

Be careful. The slip rings could be hanging up on the brushes. They
won't stand up to a lot of punishment so don't force it unless you are
sure that the brush assembly is clear of the rotor.

> Any ideas? And is it a simple matter to replace the stud once I get to
> it?
>
> FWIW, the alternator is a Mando, made in Korea. (for a Hyundai Excel)

I don't know that one, but in many alternators with integral regulators,
the regulator can be removed and the brush assembly accessed behind it.
In some cases, the regulator and brush holders are a single unit.

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Pigeon Hohl - 05 Oct 2005 22:25 GMT

> > My alternator stopped "alternating", so I took the one out of my
> > "parts car" to replace it with until I could deal with the problem.
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> the regulator can be removed and the brush assembly accessed behind it.
> In some cases, the regulator and brush holders are a single unit.

Thanks for the responses. I've been away for a while,
but this group still kicks a.s.

I finally got the thing apart by gently tapping on the case.
The brushes were probably indeed hanging it up.

I was able to tap out the remainder of the bolt with a drift.
For this photo, I have partially inserted the splined end of the stud
into it's sleeve, and put the broken end in the other side to give an
idea of the size:

http://www.oceandave.com/bolt/focus_bolt.jpg

Can anyone tell me what this type of bolt is called, and/or where I
might possibly find a replacement? Here's an extreme close-up of the
bolt to give a better idea what it looks like:

http://www.oceandave.com/bolt/close_bolt.jpg

If I can't find a replacement, I was thinking of "JB-Welding" the pieces
back together, or finding someone to possibly TIG weld it for me.
Any other ideas? There doesn't see to be any local Alternator-repair
places that will sell parts; they want $$$ for a re-built unit...

Finally, here's another shot of how the bolt looks lined up at the point
of the break--and is somewhat close to actual size at approx. 2":

http://www.oceandave.com/bolt/inline.jpg

Thanks again for the help.

Pigeon

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Nate Nagel - 05 Oct 2005 23:16 GMT

>>>My alternator stopped "alternating", so I took the one out of my
>>>"parts car" to replace it with until I could deal with the problem.
[quoted text clipped - 55 lines]
>
> Pigeon

Why don't you just take the corresponding bolt from the alternator that
doesn't work?

nate

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Pigeon Hohl - 06 Oct 2005 01:53 GMT

> Why don't you just take the corresponding bolt from the alternator that
> doesn't work?

because it's in the car that runs, and I have to drive somewhere to
get the pulley-bolt taken off with an impact wrench.
Plus I would be stranded if something went wrong, or took longer than
anticipated. Also, I will be need 2 alternators for both my Excel's, and
I don't think I could get core credit for the one with the broken bolt.
(unless I just "JB Welded it" and innocently handed it over ;-)

I didn't think it was possible to drive without the alternator,
could I get away with it without screwing anything up?
(assuming the positive lead was safely isolated, of course)

Pigeon

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Nate Nagel - 06 Oct 2005 10:32 GMT

>>Why don't you just take the corresponding bolt from the alternator that
>>doesn't work?
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> I don't think I could get core credit for the one with the broken bolt.
> (unless I just "JB Welded it" and innocently handed it over ;-)

Don't mention it and they won't notice. It's not like you didn't
already try to buy the bolt from the same place... what do they expect
you to do?

> I didn't think it was possible to drive without the alternator,
> could I get away with it without screwing anything up?
> (assuming the positive lead was safely isolated, of course)
>
> Pigeon

Sure, as long as you don't go far enough to drain the battery - assuming
that you can remove the alternator belt without disabling any other
accessories.

nate

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Spud Demon - 06 Oct 2005 18:46 GMT

Pigeon Hohl <pigeon@dontfeed.org> writes in article <pigeon-B10881.17532105102005@cnews.newsguy.com> dated Wed, 05 Oct 2005 17:53:21 -0700:

>because it's in the car that runs, and I have to drive somewhere to
>get the pulley-bolt taken off with an impact wrench.

Another option would be to use the impact wrench to loosen the bolt, then
re-tighten it with a rachet. That way you'll be able to get it off later
with the rachet.

>Plus I would be stranded if something went wrong, or took longer than
>anticipated. Also, I will be need 2 alternators for both my Excel's, and
>I don't think I could get core credit for the one with the broken bolt.
>(unless I just "JB Welded it" and innocently handed it over ;-)

I'd just argue. "Hey, you told me you'd refund the core charge when I
brought in the broken one, and here it is." They will take it.

>I didn't think it was possible to drive without the alternator,
>could I get away with it without screwing anything up?
>(assuming the positive lead was safely isolated, of course)

Yes you can do that if your battery is in good shape. Do it during daylight,
and turn off all unnecessary electrical accessories (blower, radio, etc.).

I haven't read the whole thread but why don't you fix the car that doesn't
run first, then use that while you're fixing this one?

-- spud_demon -at- thundermaker.net
The above may not (yet) represent the opinions of my employer.

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