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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / October 2005Adding Oil - Can't mix brands??
[crossposted to alt.autos.fiero,rec.autos.tech,sci.electronics.design; I've included s.e.d because those guys are versatile! But followups are not set - please, if you reply, crosspost at least once, so I'll catch the reply, but then please set followups using your better judgement. Thanks!] Well, it's Saturday, so the place where I had my last oil change is closed. But, having some free time, I thought I'd look under the hood - actually, I wanted to put water in my DieHard. While I was in there, I decided to check my oil - it's an 86 GT, with the V6 - and I'm a couple of quarts low. Yesterday, before I knew I was a couple of quarts low, I was blithely driving all over town. Now, I've looked, and I'm afraid to drive until I get a couple of quarts of oil in it, but, since it's Saturday, and the shop is closed, and I can't find their service sticker (or it's been sun- bleached so I can't read it), so I don't know what brand of oil they used. So, is it still true that you can't mix brands of oil? I haven't got cash on hand to do a full-on oil change, but a couple of quarts should only be a couple of bucks. Is there a brand of oil that's safe to add even if I don't know what brand is in there now? Kind of like type O blood - the universal donor? ;-) I guess the question is, will I be OK to continue to drive while a couple of quarts low (I have good oil pressure) until I find out what brand they used, or should I go down to the Pep Boys or Kragen and find some "universal replacement" oil? Thanks, Rich > [crossposted to alt.autos.fiero,rec.autos.tech,sci.electronics.design; > I've included s.e.d because those guys are versatile! But followups are [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > Thanks, > Rich Where did you get the idea you can't mix brands ? It all originally comes from the same stuff out of the ground you know ! ;-) Graham >> I guess the question is, will I be OK to continue to drive while a couple >> of quarts low (I have good oil pressure) until I find out what brand they [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Graham I got that idea from some guy at the oil store sometime last millennium: "It's OK to mix weights, but not mix brands." Supposedly, something to do with the particular additives. Thanks! Rich >I got that idea from some guy at the oil store sometime last millennium: >"It's OK to mix weights, but not mix brands." Supposedly, something to >do with the particular additives. BS! I've always buy whatever brand name oil is on sale. I change my oil on a regular basis, every 3k miles, with no ill effects. Just make sure you get the proper viscosity oil. -------------- Alex > >I got that idea from some guy at the oil store sometime last millennium: > >"It's OK to mix weights, but not mix brands." Supposedly, something to [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > regular basis, every 3k miles, with no ill effects. Just make sure you get the > proper viscosity oil. I rarely buy brand name oil. There's a good motor factor near me that stocks decent 'small name' brand oil that's widely used by the trade for a fraction of the price. Means you can buy semi-synthetic for the price of brand name dino oil. Europeans are forever baffled by US oil change intervals like 3000 mi too ! Graham > > >I got that idea from some guy at the oil store sometime last millennium: > > >"It's OK to mix weights, but not mix brands." Supposedly, something to [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Europeans are forever baffled by US oil change intervals like 3000 mi too ! So are Americans. I use synthetic and shoot for anywhere from 8,000-12,000 mi depending on when it's convenient for me. 3,000 mi is nonsense from several decades ago and has no relevance to today's engines or oils. Pete C. >So, is it still true that you can't mix brands of oil? Mixing brands isn't the very pinnacle of practice. Mostly, because the additive systems used in the oils may be different and, when mixed together, may not function quite as well as either manufacturer had intended. But I don't think serious problems will occur when you add in a different brand between full oil changes. It's more important to maintain a proper oil level, I think, than any variance in performance from adding in a different brand. Jon >>So, is it still true that you can't mix brands of oil? > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Jon Thanks for this. :-) Cheers! Rich > Is there a brand of oil that's safe to add even if I don't know what brand > is in there now? Kind of like type O blood - the universal donor? ;-) [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Thanks, > Rich I saw on an infomercial you can get this stuff to put in with your oil, and then you can drain all the oil out and, like, stll drive around. So maybe you could get some of this stuff and drain all the oil, just to be on the safe side. > > Is there a brand of oil that's safe to add even if I don't know what brand > > is in there now? Kind of like type O blood - the universal donor? ;-) [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > you could get some of this stuff and drain all the oil, just to be on the > safe side. Don't be ridiculous. He said he was broke, how the hell can he afford a drain pan if he can't afford an oil change? >is it still true that you can't mix brands of oil? > Rich Grise If you never allow someone to put Pennzoil or Quaker State in your car, it will never be an issue. http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:ZLms9LDGUqoJ:www.boatforumz.com/-perfect-moto r-oil-ford-302-ftopict12770.html+paraffin+Texas-crude+Pennsylvania-crude http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:jXHnvPM9C6gJ:wetlands.simplyaquatics.com/manu als/USN/Salvage-Manual/VOL6/APP_F.PDF+paraffin+Texas-crude+Pennsylvania-crude Amen, Quaker State and Penzoil have contributed to many an engine's short life. > So, is it still true that you can't mix brands of oil? I haven't got cash > on hand to do a full-on oil change, but a couple of quarts should only > be a couple of bucks. "Still" true? It was never true to begin with. Sounds like something that your grandfathers grandfather passed along. > Is there a brand of oil that's safe to add even if I don't know what brand > is in there now? Kind of like type O blood - the universal donor? ;-) Yeah, the stuff that says "Motor Oil" on the label. Follow your owners manual recommendation on viscosity and you'll be fine. > I guess the question is, will I be OK to continue to drive while a couple > of quarts low (I have good oil pressure) until I find out what brand they > used, or should I go down to the Pep Boys or Kragen and find some > "universal replacement" oil? That oil pressure reading is from but one spot in the oil system, it in no way means that there is adequate pressure under these circumstances anywhere or every where else in the system, that is why your engine has both a dip stick and a pressure gauge. Your logic has you cutting off the arm to save the hand. Just put some oil in it. > > So, is it still true that you can't mix brands of oil? I haven't got cash > > on hand to do a full-on oil change, but a couple of quarts should only [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > Your logic has you cutting off the arm to save the hand. > Just put some oil in it. In particular - low oil level wil cause problems with hydraulic lifters. Graham >> > So, is it still true that you can't mix brands of oil? I haven't got cash >> > on hand to do a full-on oil change, but a couple of quarts should only [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > Graham Yes - this is why it had started going "ticka-ticka" when I started it. I want to thank you all for your answers - Being the impatient guy that I am, I went ahead and took the chance, bought two quarts of the least expensive oil I could find, poured it in, and the car seems happy now. :-) I have REAL GOOD oil pressure now. :-) :-) :-) I also watered the battery a little - but that's a topic for another post. Thanks! Rich > I have REAL GOOD oil pressure now. :-) :-) :-) > > I also watered the battery a little - but that's a topic for another > post. Did you mix brands? >> I have REAL GOOD oil pressure now. :-) :-) :-) >> >> I also watered the battery a little - but that's a topic for another >> post. > > Did you mix brands? I recommend Sparkletts ;) Bob >> I have REAL GOOD oil pressure now. :-) :-) :-) >> >> I also watered the battery a little - but that's a topic for another >> post. > > Did you mix brands? Yeah, but several people reassured that these days, they're all pretty much interchangeable, just don't mix weights. So I got a couple of quarts of 10-40, which is as close as I could find to what I think is already in there. Also, I have a voltmeter on my dash and it was reading a little low, and, like, when I used the turn signal, the radio would get a little quieter. Surprisingly, one cell in my DieHard took about a teaspoon of water, and now I've got a good solid 13.5V. :-) I also filled up, and found that I'm getting better than 15 MPG around town - wasn't there a thread about gas mileage somewhere? Thanks! Rich I read in sci.electronics.design that Rich Grise <rich@example.net> wrote (in <pan.2005.10.11.15.35.01.581097@example.net>) about 'Adding Oil - Can't mix brands??', on Tue, 11 Oct 2005: >>> I have REAL GOOD oil pressure now. :-) :-) :-) >>> [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >Yeah, but several people reassured that these days, they're all pretty >much interchangeable, just don't mix weights. Quite right. Don't EVER put pure D2O or T2O into your battery. Especially T2O; it's far too costly. OTOH, most brands of H2O mix quite well.  SignatureRegards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only. If everything has been designed, a god designed evolution by natural selection. http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk > I read in sci.electronics.design that Rich Grise <rich@example.net> > wrote (in <pan.2005.10.11.15.35.01.581097@example.net>) about 'Adding [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > OTOH, most brands of H2O mix quite well. Some brands of H2O are rather costly as well. Some are more expensive than beer, or even gasoline! SignatureKeith >> I read in sci.electronics.design that Rich Grise <rich@example.net> >> wrote (in <pan.2005.10.11.15.35.01.581097@example.net>) about 'Adding [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] >Some brands of H2O are rather costly as well. Some are more >expensive than beer, or even gasoline! But its good to use distilled water for battery and cooling system. greg > >> I read in sci.electronics.design that Rich Grise <rich@example.net> > >> wrote (in <pan.2005.10.11.15.35.01.581097@example.net>) about 'Adding [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > But its good to use distilled water for battery and cooling system. Somewhere or other I read that distilled is not recommended for the cooling system. Something about it being more corrosive and the regular "drinking water" being recommended instead if your tap water is not useable i.e. hard water. Pete C. I read in sci.electronics.design that Pete C. <aux3.DOH.4@snet.net> wrote (in <434C1936.69DE5D3B@snet.net>) about 'Adding Oil - Can't mix brands??', on Tue, 11 Oct 2005: >Somewhere or other I read that distilled is not recommended for the >cooling system. Something about it being more corrosive and the regular >"drinking water" being recommended instead if your tap water is not >useable i.e. hard water. Yes, distilled water will totally wreck an aluminium engine, given time, and there may be Al parts in there that you don't know about. If the book says you must use a corrosion-inhibited coolant, IT MEANS IT! SignatureRegards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only. If everything has been designed, a god designed evolution by natural selection. http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk >>Somewhere or other I read that distilled is not recommended for the >>cooling system. Something about it being more corrosive and the regular [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > and there may be Al parts in there that you don't know about. If the > book says you must use a corrosion-inhibited coolant, IT MEANS IT! Distilled water mixed with a proper antifreeze (containing corrosion inhibitors) isn't going to corrode anything any faster than tap water, bottled spring water, mud, Perrier or any other DHMO-based liquid. It will in fact leave behind less residues, like lime from tap water. SignatureIf John McCain gets the 2008 Republican Presidential nomination, my vote for President will be a write-in for Jiang Zemin. > I read in sci.electronics.design that Pete C. <aux3.DOH.4@snet.net> > wrote (in <434C1936.69DE5D3B@snet.net>) about 'Adding Oil - Can't mix [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > and there may be Al parts in there that you don't know about. If the > book says you must use a corrosion-inhibited coolant, IT MEANS IT! Horse poop. Running ANY type of water without antifreeze or corrision inhibitors will do that, but distilled water is the best choice to start with before you add your antifreeze or corrosion inhibitors if for some reason you can't run antifreeze (racing for example). >> I read in sci.electronics.design that Pete C. <aux3.DOH.4@snet.net> >> wrote (in <434C1936.69DE5D3B@snet.net>) about 'Adding Oil - Can't mix [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > with before you add your antifreeze or corrosion inhibitors if for some > reason you can't run antifreeze (racing for example). I've also heard that you should mix them (the water and antifreeze) before you pour them in, because they have different specific gravities, and you could get somehting like strata - or little nooks and crannies where you don't get a good mix. But, everybody's heard a lot of old wive's tales about how to take care of cars. :-) Cheers! Rich > I've also heard that you should mix them (the water and antifreeze) before > you pour them in, because they have different specific gravities, and > you could get somehting like strata - or little nooks and crannies where > you don't get a good mix. Perhaps, but that wouldn't last more than a few seconds once you start the engine and get the water pump pumping. FWIW, I generally mix them before pouring into the radiator. You can feel the container heat up a little as you stir them together, so its obviously an exothermic process when antifreeze goes into solution with water- at least it was with the older ethylene glycol based coolants. I haven't filled any of my cars with G-05 HOAT coolant yet. > FWIW, I generally mix them before pouring into the radiator. I haven't had much success at getting all the plain water out after flushing the system (comparing measured output to stated system capacity), so I generally start with some straight antifreeze to balance; I guesstimate the amount of water still in there and add antifreeze to get about 60% antifreeze / 40% water. Then I work with the premix from there. It seems picky, but IIRC the last time I went through this there was close to a gallon of water left in the system after flushing. SignatureIf John McCain gets the 2008 Republican Presidential nomination, my vote for President will be a write-in for Jiang Zemin. > > Yes, distilled water will totally wreck an aluminium engine, given time, > > and there may be Al parts in there that you don't know about. If the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > with before you add your antifreeze or corrosion inhibitors if for some > reason you can't run antifreeze (racing for example). I agree with you, Steve. Distilled water without corrosion inhibitors can be quite corrosive, even to stainless steels and aluminum, but with an effective inhibitor package, its use poses no problem. In some cases, natural minerals of various types dissolved in the water provide some degree of corrosion protection, but I wouldn't want to bank on this. >> > Yes, distilled water will totally wreck an aluminium engine, given time, >> > and there may be Al parts in there that you don't know about. If the [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] >provide some degree of corrosion protection, but I wouldn't want to bank >on this. The old suggestion ws to replace antifreeze every 2-3 years, because the inhibitors start to break down. If I don't do that, I just add some inhibitor after that time period. They also call it water pump lube and corosion inhibitor. Its a white liquid. I think it also make seals expand a bit. Reminds me when I used to use Mobil 1 in my Datsun. I read where they have to get the mixture just right so seals do not shrink, but do not expand too much. I used to get some kind of sepage though. The sides of my engine would get wet with oil when I ran it hard. greg >>> > Yes, distilled water will totally wreck an aluminium engine, given time, >>> > and there may be Al parts in there that you don't know about. If the [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] >>provide some degree of corrosion protection, but I wouldn't want to bank >>on this. Tell you about my Mustang story. Took my 64.5 Mustang to Ca. high desert. For one reason or another, I had to refill my radiator several times. After a couple years, the mineral build up was so bad, I had a tuff time driving it anywhere without overheating. Finally got my Datsun, one reason I had to. greg >The old suggestion ws to replace antifreeze every 2-3 years, because >the inhibitors start to break down. If I don't do that, I just add some [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > >greg > Tell you about my Mustang story. Took my 64.5 Mustang to Ca. high desert. > For one reason or another, I had to refill my radiator several times. > After a couple years, the mineral build up was so bad, I had a tuff time driving > it anywhere without overheating. Finally got my Datsun, one reason I had to. > > greg Here is a little suggestion: if you are going to use tap water, use it from the HOT water faucet. Carbonates have the odd property of being less soluble in hot water so a lot of them fall out in the hot water heater and there is less in the hot water to clog up your engine. This works for coffee makers too. SignatureRobert W. Hughes (Bob) BackYard Engineering 29:40.237N, 95:28.726W or perhaps 30:55.265N, 95:20.590W Houston, Texas "The city with too much Oxygen" rwhughe@oplink.net I read in sci.electronics.design that R W Hughes <rwhughe@oplink.net> wrote (in <11kqja6hds88747@corp.supernews.com>) about 'Adding Oil - Can't mix brands??', on Wed, 12 Oct 2005: >Here is a little suggestion: if you are going to use tap water, use it >from the HOT water faucet. Carbonates have the odd property of being >less soluble in hot water Well, not quite. What happens is called 'temporary hardness' because it is removed by (preferably) boiling the water. Calcium and magnesium bicarbonates are quite soluble in water, but are decomposed by boiling, to form the carbonates, which are far less soluble and are precipitated as 'lime scale'. SignatureRegards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only. If everything has been designed, a god designed evolution by natural selection. http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk > The old suggestion ws to replace antifreeze every 2-3 years, because > the inhibitors start to break down. If I don't do that, I just add some inhibitor [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > greg I did that in the old days, but not anymore. The water pump lubricants/corrosion inhibitors that used to be available were based upon 'soluble oils' and these were not healthy for hoses and other rubber parts. Don't know if they are still the same because I havent researched what is now available. They were intended to plate out as an oily film on the cooling system surfaces and isolate those surfaces from contact with the water and corrodents. Air was the most likely corrodent in those old systems. Captive overflow systems probably help prevent corrosion in those old cast iron blocks as much as anything as they helped keep air intrusion to a minimum. The water pump lubricant was usually something like the BASF Pluronic block polyols. Properly chosen, they could be good lubricants, dispersants, etc. and did not foam. Engine systems soften use more varied metallurgy today, and the requirement for corrosion prevention systems may be more complicated. It would be chemically incorrect to say that all the decomposition of antifreeze has to do with deterioration of the corrosion inhibitor packages. Glycols themselves can decompose too, usually yielding complex mixtures of oxidates (acids). Air is never totally excluded, and over time this decomposition occurs. These acidic materials (similar to oxalic acid) can take up iron, increase corrosion, and in some cases cause precipitates. In some systems, the corrective measures taken are to simply buffer the pH up with borate or caustic soda, but at some point you are forced to change out these fluids. I didn't mean to lecture on chemistry, but my point is, for longest life and best service, you should flush the system and change out the coolant at some appropriate interval. You may get by with not doing it, but it is not really good practise. >> The old suggestion ws to replace antifreeze every 2-3 years, because >> the inhibitors start to break down. If I don't do that, I just add some [quoted text clipped - 59 lines] > >You may get by with not doing it, but it is not really good practise. Very good. I feel stupid. I recall realizing that stuff expanded rubber like parts, after I put some into my overflow resovour. A very high concentration contacting the suction hose. Some time later I found the hose inside the overflow container on the bottom. It fell from the nipple on the lid. After I took it out I could not believe how big it got. Somehow this post sounds a little lame. greg > Somehow this post sounds a little lame. > > greg Not at all, Greg.. They have sold millions of gallons of those products. There may be some now that are less interactive with rubber goods. > Very good. I feel stupid. I recall realizing that stuff expanded rubber like parts, after I put some > into my overflow resovour. A very high concentration contacting the suction hose. Some time later I [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > greg Lame as in its time for someone to say , "that's what SHE said..." ??? >>But its good to use distilled water for battery and cooling system. > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Pete C. The idea that distilled water could be "corrosive" is ludicrous. Distilled water allows the corrosion inhibitors in the antifreeze its mixed with to work without interference from random concentrations of dissolved minerals and ions in tap water (which varies from season to season in most areas, not only from region to region). Filtered and deionized water is a good second choice to distilled. >>>But its good to use distilled water for battery and cooling system. >> [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >season in most areas, not only from region to region). Filtered and >deionized water is a good second choice to distilled. I am familiar with the cautions of using distilled water in stainless steel water baths. greg I read in sci.electronics.design that Steve <no@spam.thanks> wrote (in <vZCdnWn0oJZGuNDeRVn-pQ@texas.net>) about 'Adding Oil - Can't mix brands??', on Wed, 12 Oct 2005: >The idea that distilled water could be "corrosive" is ludicrous. But it IS, especially when hot, with OTHER THINGS being present, such as different metals, carbon dioxide and oxygen. When you put it into the cooling system, it doesn't stay pure water for very long! SignatureRegards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only. If everything has been designed, a god designed evolution by natural selection. http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk > I read in sci.electronics.design that Steve <no@spam.thanks> wrote (in > <vZCdnWn0oJZGuNDeRVn-pQ@texas.net>) about 'Adding Oil - Can't mix [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > different metals, carbon dioxide and oxygen. When you put it into the > cooling system, it doesn't stay pure water for very long! Geez, people! That's what the antifreeze corrosion inhibition package is for. The whole point is that the final result of mixing antifreeze with distilled water is MORE stable and MORE predictable in its behavior than starting with tap water or drinking water of largely unknown content, some of which might work against the corrosion inhibitors in the antifreeze. > >> I read in sci.electronics.design that Rich Grise <rich@example.net> > >> wrote (in <pan.2005.10.11.15.35.01.581097@example.net>) about 'Adding [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > But its good to use distilled water for battery and cooling system. Yes, but the distilled brand is free. I throw away a couple of gallons of it every day from June to November. SignatureKeith > I read in sci.electronics.design that Rich Grise <rich@example.net> > wrote (in <pan.2005.10.11.15.35.01.581097@example.net>) about 'Adding [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > OTOH, most brands of H2O mix quite well. How about HDO? HTO? DTO? I read in sci.electronics.design that Richard Henry <rphenry@home.com> wrote (in <3r2drmFgp6khU1@individual.net>) about 'Adding Oil - Can't mix brands??', on Tue, 11 Oct 2005: >How about HDO? HTO? DTO? These hybrids have NO place in a high-fidelity battery. SignatureRegards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only. If everything has been designed, a god designed evolution by natural selection. http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk > Quite right. Don't EVER put pure D2O or T2O into your battery. > Especially T2O; it's far too costly. > > OTOH, most brands of H2O mix quite well. Even H20(17) and H2O(18), not to mention the D and T variants on those? > > Quite right. Don't EVER put pure D2O or T2O into your battery. > > Especially T2O; it's far too costly. > > > > OTOH, most brands of H2O mix quite well. > > Even H20(17) and H2O(18), not to mention the D and T variants on those? Can OTOH go in a battery? Ken I read in sci.electronics.design that Ken Taylor <ken@home.nz> wrote (in <T233f.17$S24.615@news.xtra.co.nz>) about 'Adding Oil - Can't mix brands??', on Wed, 12 Oct 2005: >Can OTOH go in a battery? HTO2? Very heavy hydrogen peroxide. Well, the molecules are small enough to fit through the filler hole... (;-) SignatureRegards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only. If everything has been designed, a god designed evolution by natural selection. http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk I read in sci.electronics.design that Paul Burke <paul@scazon.com> wrote (in <3r3rerFhnf2hU1@individual.net>) about 'Adding Oil - Can't mix brands??', on Wed, 12 Oct 2005: >> Quite right. Don't EVER put pure D2O or T2O into your battery. >>Especially T2O; it's far too costly. >> OTOH, most brands of H2O mix quite well. > >Even H20(17) and H2O(18), not to mention the D and T variants on those? Why stop at 17 and 18? O can appear as at least O13 to O20, rather fleetingly in some cases. O13 has a half-life of 9 ms. SignatureRegards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only. If everything has been designed, a god designed evolution by natural selection. http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk > I read in sci.electronics.design that Paul Burke <paul@scazon.com> wrote > (in <3r3rerFhnf2hU1@individual.net>) about 'Adding Oil - Can't mix [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Why stop at 17 and 18? O can appear as at least O13 to O20, rather > fleetingly in some cases. O13 has a half-life of 9 ms. And gives new meaning to a "hot" battery... ;-p I read in sci.electronics.design that Steve <no@spam.thanks> wrote (in <vZCdnWv0oJZfu9DeRVn-pQ@texas.net>) about 'Adding Oil - Can't mix brands??', on Wed, 12 Oct 2005: >> I read in sci.electronics.design that Paul Burke <paul@scazon.com> >>wrote (in <3r3rerFhnf2hU1@individual.net>) about 'Adding Oil - Can't [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > >And gives new meaning to a "hot" battery... ;-p Yes, although the positrons wouldn't get through the casing. But the electrolyte would fizz due to the nitrogen evolved. SignatureRegards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only. If everything has been designed, a god designed evolution by natural selection. http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk > >> I have REAL GOOD oil pressure now. :-) :-) :-) > >> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > a couple of quarts of 10-40, which is as close as I could find > to what I think is already in there. What do you have anyway? > Also, I have a voltmeter on my dash and it was reading a little > low, and, like, when I used the turn signal, the radio would > get a little quieter. Surprisingly, one cell in my DieHard > took about a teaspoon of water, and now I've got a good solid > 13.5V. :-) Thats scary. > I also filled up, and found that I'm getting better than 15 MPG > around town - wasn't there a thread about gas mileage somewhere? I wish! greg > Thanks! > Rich On Tue, 11 Oct 2005 11:38:07 -0700, szekeres wrote: >> > "Rich, Under the Affluence" <nevermind@example.net> wrote in message >> >> [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > What do you have anyway? 1986 Pontiac Fiero with the V6. (I'd have to look up the CID.) >> Also, I have a voltmeter on my dash and it was reading a little low, >> and, like, when I used the turn signal, the radio would get a little >> quieter. Surprisingly, one cell in my DieHard took about a teaspoon of >> water, and now I've got a good solid 13.5V. :-) > > Thats scary. Why is this? Thanks, Rich I buy whatever's on sale and regulary mix brands depending on what I have on hand. You have to match the viscosity (eg 10W30) and grade (eg FH) to what's in your owner's manual. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned Rich, > So, is it still true that you can't mix brands of oil? I > haven't got cash on hand to do a full-on oil change, but > a couple of quarts should only be a couple of bucks. It's usually okay if you don't mix Tyrannosaurus-based motor oil with any from the Brachiosaurus. Read the label very carefully, and make sure that the motor oil your using is at least Dinosaur-based, i.e., not prehistoric foliage- based. Ask the person selling it if you need to. --Mike Many years ago, when multi-viscoscity oil was the new latest thing in oil, there was some truth to what you said. At that time, the oil additive packages of each oil may not necessarily be compatible, and the mixture of two (oils) viscosity modifying packages would combine chemically to make a thick sludge. But that ended probably in the (early) 1950's, as improvements in oil additive packages happened because of that problem. It has not been a concern for a long, long time. However, don't try mixing a synthetic with a motor oil, necessarily. But motor oil to motor oil is fine. It's a Grandpa's story. True at one time, but not now. Best-- Ron Registered Certified Fluid Power Engineer (finally retired) > [crossposted to alt.autos.fiero,rec.autos.tech,sci.electronics.design; > I've included s.e.d because those guys are versatile! But followups are [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > Thanks, > Rich >Many years ago, when multi-viscoscity oil was the new latest thing in oil, >there was some truth to what you said. >At that time, the oil additive packages of each oil may not necessarily be >compatible, and the mixture of two (oils) viscosity modifying packages would >combine chemically to make a thick sludge. Here's my version. It wasn't very long ago that any high multiviscosity oils created sludge with heat like 10W-40. Thats why 10w-30 was standard with diesel or most any engines under strain. I read that in CR at least 15 years ago. Sometime after that, things changed, to where they started recommending the things other than 10W-30. For the most part, all oils must be made to combine, even synthetic. greg >But that ended probably in the (early) 1950's, as improvements in oil >additive packages happened because of that problem. [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] >> Thanks, >> Rich > [crossposted to alt.autos.fiero,rec.autos.tech,sci.electronics.design; > I've included s.e.d because those guys are versatile! But followups are [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > Thanks, > Rich throw some Castrol GTX 10-40W in it. kind of sounds like your engine either leaks it or burns it. SignatureReal Programmers Do things like this. http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5 ... >> I guess the question is, will I be OK to continue to drive while a >> couple of quarts low (I have good oil pressure) until I find out what [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > throw some Castrol GTX 10-40W in it. > kind of sounds like your engine either leaks it or burns it. Yeah, I'm pretty sure "leaks it" is closer to the truth - there are spots where I park it. And, of course, I was raised to believe that car motors always consume some amount of oil, as if it's just a normal thing to do. And from the little I know about internal explosion engines, it seems logical. When I was in the US Air Force, I used to watch the ground crew servicing an EB-47 (yeah, very few people have heard of them - very weird airplane) and the first thing they did was pour about six quarts into each engine. But that's supposedly not a design flaw. At the airplane factory, they probably called it a "feature". ;-) Thanks! Rich I read in sci.electronics.design that "Rich, Under the Affluence" <nevermind@example.net> wrote (in <pan.2005.10.10.15.31.28.75147@example.net>) about 'Adding Oil - Can't mix brands??', on Mon, 10 Oct 2005: >When I was in the US Air Force, I used to watch the ground crew >servicing an EB-47 (yeah, very few people have heard of them - very >weird airplane) HEAVY!! http://www.dyess.af.mil/airpark/eb-47e.htm SignatureRegards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only. If everything has been designed, a god designed evolution by natural selection. http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk > I read in sci.electronics.design that "Rich, Under the Affluence" > <nevermind@example.net> wrote (in [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > http://www.dyess.af.mil/airpark/eb-47e.htm Yikes! I obviously misremembered the airplane's designator - this isn't the one I worked on at all. Here it is: EB-57 "Canberra". My mistake - but, well, I was in the Air ^ Force, and it was some time ago. (I was but a lad...) http://www.nasm.si.edu/research/aero/aircraft/martin_eb57.htm The ones I worked on were painted in camouflage, and instead of bombs in the bomb-bay, it had a modified bomb-bay door with jamming transmitters mounted on it and antennas sticking out the bottom. Thanks! Rich > > I read in sci.electronics.design that "Rich, Under the Affluence" > > <nevermind@example.net> wrote (in [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > ^ > Force, and it was some time ago. (I was but a lad...) I was wondering about that. The EB47 was just a B47 with some electronics doodads, mostly used by the Navy, IIRC. > http://www.nasm.si.edu/research/aero/aircraft/martin_eb57.htm > > The ones I worked on were painted in camouflage, and instead of > bombs in the bomb-bay, it had a modified bomb-bay door with > jamming transmitters mounted on it and antennas sticking out > the bottom. A friend was a crew chief for the RB57 that's now in the USAF museum at Wright Patterson (it's restored to its Vermont Air Guard clothes as it was when he worked on it). He also did some baby sitting for "specials", during the Cuban Missle Crisis, that officially didn't exist. Shhh! SignatureKeith All oil sellers recommend that you don't mix different brands of oil. I.e. you should use only there brand. Although it is theoretically possible, but highly unlikely, that there could be some problem with different additives, it is much better to mix oil of different brand and viscosity than to drive with low oil. > [crossposted to alt.autos.fiero,rec.autos.tech,sci.electronics.design; > I've included s.e.d because those guys are versatile! But followups are [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > Thanks, > Rich SignatureMike Walsh West Palm Beach, Florida, U.S.A. > All oil sellers recommend that you don't mix different brands of oil. I.e. you should use only there brand. > Although it is theoretically possible, but highly unlikely, that there could be some problem with different additives, it is much better to mix oil of different brand and viscosity than to drive with low oil. I think we might be surprised if we knew how many motor oils used exactly the same additive packages from primary suppliers. There are a few main suppliers, and many of the formulations are generically and functionally very very similar. www.shell.ca/code/motoring/encyclopedia/motoroil/synthetic_oils.html re : mixing motor oils... > <<<snip>>> > > So, is it still true that you can't mix brands of oil? <<<snip>>> > > Thanks, > Rich Brands won't matter, but you shouldn't mix synthetics (which I doubt you have if you're that broke, no offense intended) with organic oil (everything not synthetic). So don't throw in some Mobil-1 with 99 cent/quart generic motor oil. I'd be more concerned about driving around with only half a pan of oil in your car, especially stop & go city driving. Cheers, - JJ > Brands won't matter, but you shouldn't mix synthetics...with > organic oil ... Why not? What about the blends that are synthetic/dino? Please explain and/or cite some supporting data. Add isn't it all organic? > Brands won't matter, but you shouldn't mix synthetics (which I doubt you > have if you're that broke, no offense intended) with organic oil > (everything not synthetic). So don't throw in some Mobil-1 with 99 > cent/quart generic motor oil. The very first synthetic I used was Amsoil. I used it because it was the only synthetic at that time that could be mixed with organic oils; Mobil 1 specifically prohibited mixing at that time. Nowadays I see that the Mobil 1 label specifically allows mixing, as did Pennzoil's old synthetic and the one or two others that I looked at. I've heard there is one that doesn't allow it. I suspect the label will tell on synthetics. SignatureIf John McCain gets the 2008 Republican Presidential nomination, my vote for President will be a write-in for Jiang Zemin. > Brands won't matter, but you shouldn't mix synthetics (which I doubt you > have if you're that broke, no offense intended) with organic oil > (everything not synthetic). So don't throw in some Mobil-1 with 99 > cent/quart generic motor oil. > Cheers, > - JJ According to some official sites, it doesn't make a darn bit of difference. Mix what you will. > will I be OK to continue to drive while a couple > of quarts low (I have good oil pressure) Gah. Put more oil in. Whoever told you not to mix brands was also probably telling you how you're supposed to change the air in your tires every 3 months, right? :-). > until I find out what brand they > used, or should I go down to the Pep Boys or > Kragen and find some "universal replacement" oil? Ask them for that and they'll laugh their a.ses off! (And probably give you the same answer they give to those who want to change the air in their tires...) Tim. >So, is it still true that you can't mix brands of oil? I haven't got cash >on hand to do a full-on oil change, but a couple of quarts should only >be a couple of bucks. The only problem (and the reason you heard that claim?) might be switching to synthetic oil after driving tens of thousands of miles on regular oil. Gummed-up oil seals might become "too clean" and lose their band-aid effect. I vary synthetic brands since they are all rated as compatible with the same engine materials. Waters |
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