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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / October 2005Another PO171 situation
My 2000 Echo check engine light keeps coming on. The first time a mechanic found nothing and the light went off. (Gas cap?) The light came on again and I had it put on the computer. The neighborhood mechanic said he got a code he was having trouble following up.(?) Hovever,the light went off. The light has been on again for about a month and I had Monro run it through the "Orbit computer scan" when I had it in for an oil change. It came up with code PO171,system too lean,bank 1. It was suggested I take it to the dealer. Guess what. When I started the car,the light was off. Does this sound like an intemittant O2 sensor that resets itself when put on the computer? Should I ignore it? All I know about cars is what I read on this board. A lean code like this can be caused by many things, a contaminated maf, (needs cleaning), air entering anywhere into the intake behind the maf, low fuel pressure, last thing usually is the sensor itself falsely telling the pcm it is running lean. This will take some expert diagnosing using a proven trouble tree type diagnostic procedure, which is built in to some high line scanners. > My 2000 Echo check engine light keeps coming on. The first time a > mechanic found nothing and the light went off. (Gas cap?) The light [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > intemittant O2 sensor that resets itself when put on the computer? > Should I ignore it? All I know about cars is what I read on this board. >A lean code like this can be caused by many things, a contaminated maf, >(needs cleaning), Takes all of 10 seconds to clean that. BTDT > air entering anywhere into the intake behind the maf easy enough to check >, low >fuel pressure, even easier to check > last thing usually is the sensor itself falsely telling the >pcm it is running lean. This will take some expert diagnosing using a proven >trouble tree type diagnostic procedure, which is built in to some high line >scanners. Baloney. Pull the sensor and bench test it. Lg >> My 2000 Echo check engine light keeps coming on. The first time a >> mechanic found nothing and the light went off. (Gas cap?) The light [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups >----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- Both gentileman are correct, it can many things that will create a false reading.....Without proper diag. all we are doing is are throwing parts greniades at the problem at hand. ... i have seen a problem some Toyota's be the o2, on occassion i have seen faulty Comp. and or wiring Thanks for the quick replies. One of my questions is,what significance is there in the light going off after the car is hooked up to the computer? If the light does not come on again,should I forget about it? BTW,I cannot even change a wiper blade without screwing up,so whatever gets done will by by a mechanic. > Thanks for the quick replies. One of my questions is,what significance > is there in the light going off after the car is hooked up to the > computer? If the light does not come on again,should I forget about it? > ... I believe most code readers have the ability to clear the code, making the light go off. That could be the case for you. But if the problem isn't fixed it will come back on eventually. When my Mazda threw that code a few weeks ago it turned out to be a split in the big hose between the air cleaner and the intake, after the maf, just as someone else here gave as a possible cause. Easily fixed with a piece of duct tape until I can get a replacement. How do you bench test the operation of a 02 sensor short of using a scope to watch it's activity in the exhaust stream, oh baloney one? >>A lean code like this can be caused by many things, a contaminated maf, >>(needs cleaning), [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] >>----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption >>=---- To add. I've looked at that bench test you linked and it still cannot determine if the switching cycle meets the operating paramenters of an obd11 pcm. Otherwise the test is a good starting point. > How do you bench test the operation of a 02 sensor short of using a scope > to watch it's activity in the exhaust stream, oh baloney one? [quoted text clipped - 49 lines] > ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption > =---- > To add. I've looked at that bench test you linked and it still cannot >determine if the switching cycle meets the operating paramenters of an obd11 >pcm. Otherwise the test is a good starting point. If I'm so full of baloney, how come my car(s) run like a Top, and other people's cars run like sh.t? Got a clue, any idea? Maybe it is possible that I know more than you *think* I know. Your impression of my skill levels has no relevance to what they actually are. I already corrected a serious engine surge problem on this glorified taurus. didn't take the time to mention it, because of the inevitable flames that would have followed. So, why should I waste my time trying to help people who only spit on me for gratitude. Lg >> How do you bench test the operation of a 02 sensor short of using a scope >> to watch it's activity in the exhaust stream, oh baloney one? [quoted text clipped - 53 lines] >http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups >----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- Lawrence, was kidding with the baloney reference, you started this, I have seen your posts/replies and they are comprehensive for sure, just thowing out a discussion on different ways to test the 02 sensor, second half of that article gets into it better. Calm down here, no one is challenging your knowledge here, we all have varying backrounds in the auto field. I think we can , by the tone of the questions and replies, determine what some one's abilities are. That is why I suggesed that he may be in over his head. >> To add. I've looked at that bench test you linked and it still cannot >>determine if the switching cycle meets the operating paramenters of an [quoted text clipped - 79 lines] >>----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption >>=---- >Lawrence, was kidding with the baloney reference, you started this, I have >seen your posts/replies and they are comprehensive for sure, just thowing [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >can , by the tone of the questions and replies, determine what some one's >abilities are. That is why I suggesed that he may be in over his head. Yes -he- is in over his head, by his own admission, which leads me to question why he queried =this= n/g in particular, which is populated with highly experienced professionals and advanced amateurs ( counting myself amongst the latter ). He had to know he was going to get a technical answer to his question. Now he says he doesn't know how to change a windshield wiper blade and is going to take the car to a mechanic. ;-\ He is definitely in *over his head.* My URL reference was just a blip that I could make available with little effort. My service manual goes into the detail in a much more meaningful way. BTW, baloney is good. I just had two heated baloney sandwiches, so right now, I -am- full of baloney ! 8-) Lg >>> To add. I've looked at that bench test you linked and it still cannot >>>determine if the switching cycle meets the operating paramenters of an [quoted text clipped - 83 lines] >http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups >----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- Lawrence, cool, we can move forward now and jointly help here when possible. >>Lawrence, was kidding with the baloney reference, you started this, I have >>seen your posts/replies and they are comprehensive for sure, just thowing [quoted text clipped - 119 lines] >>----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption >>=---- >Lawrence, cool, we can move forward now and jointly help here when possible. Yep. Nobody has all the answers. Too many different makes and models of vehicles to keep track of. We need input from people who have experience. Re my engine surging problem, the syptom was the engine would surge heavily at idle but never while the vehicle was in motion. Clue: Something to do with IAC, throttle, position sensor, something in that area. I took the IAC off, cleaned it out ( against the rules ), cleaned the throttle butterfly valve, reassembled...same problem. Took a flashlight to the throttle plate and moved it 90 degrees to the bore, and there was a dam of *crap* piled up BEHIND the throttle air control vane. Behind it where you couldn't see it. So I scrubbed the crap out of that area to get it down to *bore diameter* and now the engine runs like new. This on a car with only 18K miles on it. Now how much would that have cost me if I brought it to a *dealer* service shop. I paid something like $5 for a can of throttle plate cleaner. That was my entire investment. I also got to clean the MAF sensor, air filter, IAC piston and seals, and so forth. Fixed. Less than 1 hour of labor and $5 for a can of spray. That's a story with a happy ending. Something else: My alternator outputs 14.4 volts, but my Davis Car Chip records this as 13.8 volts. Screwy. Another thing... My car takes 6 WATTS of power when it is *turned off.* No it isn't a parasitic load like a light left on, cause I can see the amperage rise and fall as lights turn on and off ( e.g. trunk light and so forth ). That is the power necessary for the Anti Theft Control System, power to keep the ECM memory alive, and who knows what else. That's 6 watts being sucked off the battery 24/7, whether the car is running or off. Result: When I put my battery charger on the car this last weekend ( haven't done it in a while ) the battery took a HUGE charge. Now I do have *all electric* this and that. Windows, door locks, seats, everything has a motor connected to it, not to mention the rear window defogger, the rear mirror defoggers ( yes, I have HEATED MIRRORS ), and who knows what else. Bottom line is, if you have a car like mine, it might be a good idea to put a charger on it every now and then, especially if it is used for short trips around town. There is a lot to learn. I checked the electrolyte level in my *maintenance free* battery and THAT was down also from the beginning of this summer, and I had to top up the cells. Bottom line is, keep an eye on what is going on under the hood so you don't get any unpleasant surprises. I check my serpentine belts, everything when I pop the hood. fluid levels, cables/wires/drips, it only takes a few minutes and will guarantee you'll be driving problem free when Winter hits. Lg > Another thing... > My car takes 6 WATTS of power when it is *turned off.* No it isn't a [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > last weekend ( haven't done it in a while ) the battery took a HUGE > charge. I hate to say it Larry but you've got a problem. I'm not sure why you measure battery drain in watts, it's generally measured in milliamps. 6 watts would be about 500ma and on your car 20 would be considered normal. How are you measuring it? Are you leaving the meter connected for at least a half hour to give the GEM module time to go to sleep? Bob >> Another thing... >> My car takes 6 WATTS of power when it is *turned off.* No it isn't a [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] >half hour to give the GEM module time to go to sleep? > Bob No, I didn't give the GEM module time to go to sleep. But the car has been garaged for about 2 or 3 hours now since I came back from shopping, so I'll go read the drain now. I use a clamp meter on the ground to chassis from the battery. Get the current, multiply by the voltage. Result = Watts. You got a problem with that? Smoke it. Stand by for my *new and improved* reading with the GEM module sleeping soundly. Post coming shortly. Lg >> Another thing... >> My car takes 6 WATTS of power when it is *turned off.* No it isn't a [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] >half hour to give the GEM module time to go to sleep? > Bob NEW reading ( GEM module sleeping soundly ) 200 milliamperes. 2.72 Watts. OK. I can live with it. Lg >>> Another thing... >>> My car takes 6 WATTS of power when it is *turned off.* No it isn't a [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > 200 milliamperes. That's still too high > 2.72 Watts. > > OK. I can live with it. As long as it doesn't sit unused for a week or two.... if it does you'll have a dead battery. Bob > Lg >>>> Another thing... >>>> My car takes 6 WATTS of power when it is *turned off.* No it isn't a [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > >That's still too high OK, I was using the clamp meter. Now I am going to have to disconnect the chassis ground and put the amp meter in series with the wire to chassis to get a more exact reading. Gimme a few minutes to suit up and get my *stuff* together and I'll come back with a more accurate reading. Lg >> 2.72 Watts. >> [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >> Lg >> NEW reading ( GEM module sleeping soundly ) >> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >have a dead battery. > Bob I don't have a meter that will read that low with any degree of accuracy. This test will have to wait for another day. >>> NEW reading ( GEM module sleeping soundly ) >>> [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > I don't have a meter that will read that low with any degree of > accuracy. This test will have to wait for another day. Almost any cheap meter will read that without a problem. Bob >>>> NEW reading ( GEM module sleeping soundly ) >>>> [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] >Almost any cheap meter will read that without a problem. > Bob I don't have *any cheap meter* around here. >>>>> NEW reading ( GEM module sleeping soundly ) >>>>> [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > I don't have *any cheap meter* around here. Well, if you bought an expensive one that won't measure it you got screwed. Bob >>>>>> NEW reading ( GEM module sleeping soundly ) >>>>>> [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >Well, if you bought an expensive one that won't measure it you got screwed. > Bob My clamp meter reads up to 600 amperes AC/DC. It does well with those high currents. It does a rotten job with very low currents. It is the Craftsman Model 82014 Did I get *screwed* Bob? >>>>>>> NEW reading ( GEM module sleeping soundly ) >>>>>>> [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > > Did I get *screwed* Bob? Not at all Larry, just a case of using the wrong tool for the job. A mistake easily made by amateurs. Much like measuring parasitic draw in watts. Not your fault......you just don't know any better. Bob >>>>>>>> NEW reading ( GEM module sleeping soundly ) >>>>>>>> [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] >your fault......you just don't know any better. > Bob I just don't know any better. "not my fault" So, you agree that using a tape measure for measuring feet is appropriate, but not for measuring thousandths of an inch. A micrometer would be more appropriate and accurate for measuring the samaller values. Therefore, two different intrstruments are required to satisfy accuracy demands in measuring both magnitudes: meters, and thousands and ten thousandths of meters. And so it is with electronic instruments. I bought the instrument I needed to measure the larger values, by choice and forethought. Your calling it a fault of mine because I *don't know any better* proves beyond a shodow of a doubt your immense and incurable brain damage. Lg >>>>>>>> NEW reading ( GEM module sleeping soundly ) >>>>>>>> [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] >your fault......you just don't know any better. > Bob What book are you reading from, that says parasitic draws MUST be specified in terms of electrical current? Cite Book, Chapter, and Verse. I measure any f.cking way I want, that is meaningful to me. I can measure in penis lengths, if I am measuring farm acreage, as this is most convenient for me, one penis length equalling roughly 1 meter in length. Someone like you might prefer to use a toothpick for more accuracy, being able to resolve units to the fractions of an inch, although the amount of measurements needed will induce an error into each measurement so you're probably not gaining much in the way of an advantage by having a smaller wee wee. I measure things in Watts, because I WANT TO! Not because I read it in a comic book while I was in auto shop class in elementary school. Lg > >Not at all Larry, just a case of using the wrong tool for the job. A mistake > >easily made by amateurs. Much like measuring parasitic draw in watts. Not [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > specified in terms of electrical current? Cite Book, Chapter, and > Verse. Here is what GM has to say about it, and trust me, Ford and Chrysler measure the same way (an electrical system is an electrical system, a battery is a battery, for the sake of this discussion.) The GM article explains why parasitic draw is only meaningful when measured with an ammeter. (you can skip right to page three (3) of the document for the meat and potatoes) http://www.gmtechlink.com/images/issues/arcv_pdf/4_02_e.pdf > I measure any f.cking way I want, that is meaningful to me. What watt specification does the battery manufacturer list for the battery part number installed in your car? (an important part of determining whether a problem actually exists) > I can > measure in penis lengths, if I am measuring farm acreage, as this is > most convenient for me, one penis length equalling roughly 1 meter in > length. Is that an accepted standard at the county clerks office where this farm land is located? > Someone like you might prefer to use a toothpick for more accuracy, > being able to resolve units to the fractions of an inch, although the > amount of measurements needed will induce an error into each > measurement so you're probably not gaining much in the way of an > advantage by having a smaller wee wee. Fascination with genitalia aside, when trying to ascertain a parasitic battery drain, accuracy -is- important. So is proper procedure, which can and often does require allowing certain modules to go to sleep, and/or installing a mechanical switch in parallel with the ammeter being used in order to avoid blowing fuses in the meter being used. > I measure things in Watts, because I WANT TO! That's nice, problem is, no one here is going to discuss it with you in those terms, so the point of posting as such is meaningless to everyone except electrons and bandwidth you waste. IOWs, you'll get just as far talking to yourself, alone, locked in your bunker. > Not because I read it > in a comic book while I was in auto shop class in elementary school. You are the retired electronics technician, so I find your position quite surprising. And, given your claims WRT the meter you have available am also surprised that you haven't just chosen another route to measure milli-amperes, perhaps a voltage drop across a known resistor (my favorite elementary school lesson). >> >Not at all Larry, just a case of using the wrong tool for the job. A mistake >> >easily made by amateurs. Much like measuring parasitic draw in watts. Not [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >meat and potatoes) >http://www.gmtechlink.com/images/issues/arcv_pdf/4_02_e.pdf The recommendation for maximum parasitic drain is around 30 mA (0.030 amps). A typical drain today actually falls into the 7 12 mA range, even though some vehicles do approach the maximum. Multiply the drain (in amps) by the time (in hours) the battery sits without being recharged. The result is the amount of AH consumed by the parasitic drain. The actual drain may be small, but over time the battery grows steadily weaker. >> I measure any f.cking way I want, that is meaningful to me. > [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] >parallel with the ammeter being used in order to avoid blowing >fuses in the meter being used. How long after turning off the ignition etc and removing the key does it take for the GEM module to *go to sleep*? >> I measure things in Watts, because I WANT TO! > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >IOWs, you'll get just as far talking to yourself, alone, locked >in your bunker. Watts is a derived value. The amperes/milliamperes are what is measured to begin with (raw data). >> Not because I read it >> in a comic book while I was in auto shop class in elementary school. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >another route to measure milli-amperes, perhaps a voltage drop >across a known resistor (my favorite elementary school lesson). I could measure the current this way if I wanted to. I don't have any *spare* resistors hanging around anyhow. When I get a few bucks I'll get a meter that can read low currents. Lg > >Here is what GM has to say about it, and trust me, Ford and > >Chrysler measure the same way (an electrical system is an [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > drain. The actual drain may be small, but over > time the battery grows steadily weaker. You got it. > >Fascination with genitalia aside, when trying to ascertain a > >parasitic battery drain, accuracy -is- important. So is proper [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > How long after turning off the ignition etc and removing the key does > it take for the GEM module to *go to sleep*? It varies from a few seconds, too a few minutes to IIRC in some applications, close to an hour. > >That's nice, problem is, no one here is going to discuss it with > >you in those terms, so the point of posting as such is [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Watts is a derived value. The amperes/milliamperes are what is > measured to begin with (raw data). But the milli-amperes is not revealed. > >You are the retired electronics technician, so I find your > >position quite surprising. And, given your claims WRT the meter [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > *spare* resistors hanging around anyhow. When I get a few bucks I'll > get a meter that can read low currents. IIRC, you said that you had a clamp on style ammeter, in that case, its resolution can be increased by building a X10 multiplier. Wind some primary wire around a soda can or similar ten times, tape it up nice and neat, attach some alligator clips to the ends of the wire, connect the X10 in series between the battery negative post and the negative terminal, clamp your amp clamp around the wound wire, meter readings now show up as X10, i.e., a 2 amp meter reading equals 200 milli-amps. Yeah, it's the Crescent wrench of electrical diagnostics but for your purposes, may well suffice, and it's cheap enough. > What book are you reading from, that says parasitic draws MUST be > specified in terms of electrical current? Cite Book, Chapter, and [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Lg Jesus Larry, you sound like a six year old kid having a tantrum. Bob >> What book are you reading from, that says parasitic draws MUST be >> specified in terms of electrical current? Cite Book, Chapter, and [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] >Jesus Larry, you sound like a six year old kid having a tantrum. > Bob You drive me nuts. You should be proud of yourself because not too many people can do that! I went looking for a suitable meter for measuring low currents today. I found a few candidates, but have to wait for the first of the Next Month to roll around before I can go buy something. In the meantime, there isn't anything I can _DO_ about a parasitic drain on my battery, whatever it is. I know there aren't any lights illuminated when they shouldn't be, for example, so whatever the on-board electronics require is what they're taking from the battery. This topic entered the n/g when I happened to suggest that people who do a lot of short trips around town check their batteries to see if they need a charge. I hadn't charged mine in a long time and it took a WHOPPER of a charge. It must have been almost 50% depleted. My idea, and it is only a guess, is that the starter motor takes away more than the alternator can give back in the short trips I make. Lg >In the meantime, there isn't anything I can _DO_ about a parasitic >drain on my battery, whatever it is. I know there aren't any lights >illuminated when they shouldn't be, for example, so whatever the >on-board electronics require is what they're taking from the battery. Yes, there is. You can watch the ammeter, and start removing fuses. When the circuit with the problem load is found, the meter will drop precipitously. If you don't have an ammeter, make a resistive shunt and put a voltmeter across it. For the job of finding the circuit with the problem, you don't need any quantitative value, you just need to be able to see when the needle drops. >This topic entered the n/g when I happened to suggest that people who >do a lot of short trips around town check their batteries to see if [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >My idea, and it is only a guess, is that the starter motor takes away >more than the alternator can give back in the short trips I make. If this is the case, you have an alternator problem. --scott  Signature"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." >>In the meantime, there isn't anything I can _DO_ about a parasitic >>drain on my battery, whatever it is. I know there aren't any lights [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >When the circuit with the problem load is found, the meter will drop >precipitously. I want to start "The Test" with the GEM Module and all other modules _asleep_. That means, I have to let the car sit for 3 hours to be certain that these things are turned OFF. Then, I will put a nice milliamp meter in series with the chassis ground coming from the battery, and read Real Numbers, instead of guessing, which is all I can do at the moment. >If you don't have an ammeter, make a resistive shunt and put a voltmeter >across it. For the job of finding the circuit with the problem, you >don't need any quantitative value, you just need to be able to see >when the needle drops. Yes, I can do this, but 10 days isn't a big deal. It isn't like I'm not going to catch this gremlin sooner or later. I'm on the hunt, and when I get the good equipment then I will have an idea if the parasitic load is NORMAL. If it is NORMAL, then there is NOTHING TO DO ABOUT IT. If it is abnormal, THEN I go on the witch hunt. But before I even know if the parasitic load is normal or not, it is a waste of time to start yanking stuff IMHO, because it proves nothing. Yes I can disconnect EVERYTHING from the battery and have NO parasitic load. That isn't solving anything at all. I have to start by knowing if my parasitic load is normal or not before I begin this little adventure. >>This topic entered the n/g when I happened to suggest that people who >>do a lot of short trips around town check their batteries to see if [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >If this is the case, you have an alternator problem. Alternator is putting out 14.4 volts DC at idle ( 750 rpm ). That I could measure. So, anything higher will *cook* the battery. That is to say, 15.0 volts DC coming from an alternator is *High.* It is abnormal. 14.0 volts DC is *normal.* So...my alternator is normal. The serpentine belt is not slipping ( I know this, because if it was, I would have trouble with my power steering and etcetera ). My belt tensioner is working fine ( I now have a tool for wrestling with that little bugger ). But =something= is sucking down my car battery, that is the fact of the matter. I had to put such a charge on the battery the other day I was amazed. It was like I was charging a dead battery. Something is amiss, and I have to find it, but I am short of spare change just at the moment. In 10 days, I'll have my monthly retirement wired into my bank and I can get a _good_ quality meter. I have one picked out already, and hope it is still available in 10 days. Right now it is on Sale for 30% off retail. Lg >--scott >>>In the meantime, there isn't anything I can _DO_ about a parasitic >>>drain on my battery, whatever it is. I know there aren't any lights [quoted text clipped - 43 lines] > Alternator is putting out 14.4 volts DC at idle ( 750 rpm ). That I > could measure. So, anything higher will *cook* the battery. But how many watts is it putting out? Sorry Larry.... I couldn't help myself. Bob >>>>In the meantime, there isn't anything I can _DO_ about a parasitic >>>>drain on my battery, whatever it is. I know there aren't any lights [quoted text clipped - 48 lines] >Sorry Larry.... I couldn't help myself. > Bob Actually, that is a good question! I can measure -that- with my clamp meter, in amperes, and then do the infamous conversion ;-) Yes, there *appears* to be a problem under the hood. When I can get proper measuring equipment I can begin working on it for real. Something isn't right. The battery is no good? It checks out OK with my 300 Ampere Load Test. The alternator isn't putting out enough current? GOOD QUESTION. The parasitic load is above what is considered *normal*? I don't know yet but will find out soon enough. My serpentine belt is in *good* shape, I have no reason to believe it is slipping. So, this is a mystery just for another 10 days at least. I can give *artificial life support* with my battery charger in the meantime until I can nail this thing down. Something is amiss. Lg > The battery is no good? It checks out OK with my 300 Ampere Load > Test. Please elaborate... Exactly what are you using for this load test and how is it being performed? >> The battery is no good? It checks out OK with my 300 Ampere Load >> Test. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >Exactly what are you using for this load test and how is it being >performed? Zirconium resistive wire Actron Battery Load Tester model CP7614 6/12 Volt 130 Amp Place across batt terminals, hit load switch for 10 to 15 seconds, watch volt meter to see where it falls to. 10.4 or less is considered weak. 10.4 to 12.4 is considered good. That is =without= engine on. For testing WITH engine ON, 12.4 to 13.5 = low 13.5 to 15 VDC is OK That's for the 12 volt testings. The only one I'm concerned about. My battery never goes below 10.4 volts with the engine off, no matter how many times I do this *test* I have NOT tried it with the engine running to see what the charging system is up to. Lg >>> The battery is no good? It checks out OK with my 300 Ampere Load >>> Test. [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > Lg So how do you do a 300amp load test with a 130amp load tester? Bob >>>> The battery is no good? It checks out OK with my 300 Ampere Load >>>> Test. [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] >So how do you do a 300amp load test with a 130amp load tester? > Bob Run the 130 ampere test 2.307692308 times in sequence. See, Bob....ah nevermind. >My 2000 Echo check engine light keeps coming on. The first time a >mechanic found nothing and the light went off. (Gas cap?) The light [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >intemittant O2 sensor that resets itself when put on the computer? >Should I ignore it? All I know about cars is what I read on this board. If it was my car, I would pull the O2 sensor and bench test it. The procedure isn't all that complicated and is in one of my repair manuals. Lg >My 2000 Echo check engine light keeps coming on. The first time a >mechanic found nothing and the light went off. (Gas cap?) The light [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >intemittant O2 sensor that resets itself when put on the computer? >Should I ignore it? All I know about cars is what I read on this board. If it was my car, I would pull the O2 sensor and bench test it. The procedure isn't all that complicated and is in one of my repair manuals. Lg ================================================================= FORGOT to include a useful URL for ya. Let me know how it goes, hey? http://home.flash.net/~lorint/lorin/fuel/oxybench.htm It's a ez to do. Just don't burn yerself. Lg You have an air or vacuum leak setting the code. We have this problem all the time. With Chevy and Ford with our fleet vehicles. Can be an intake leak, a vacuum hose, PCV hose or grommet. With engine running spray carb cleaner around top end of engine and listen for engine speed to change to a higher rpm. That is were the leak will be. Don't forget to also check the brake booster if you have vacuum assited power brakes. |
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