Recently, about 2 months ago, my 1996 Ford F250 started bucking when
going up a long grade. At about that time, I noticed my mileage was
getting worse. It went from a steady 13-15 mpg to about 6-8 mpg. I've
driven this truck since new, so I know it very well. The best way I can
describe it is it feels like I'm towing a huge mobile home even on
straightaways. So far I've changed the front fuel pump (it was noisy)
along with the fuel filter. No change. I curently have 215,000 on the
original 5.8l V8. Never any engine issues, oil changed faithfully every
4000 miles. Could this *possibly* be a plugged up converter? Any help
on this would be great! Thanks~ The Doctor
Imknotright - 03 Nov 2005 01:31 GMT
200K I'd say you got your moneys worth out of that converter. Definately
can't hurt to replace it.
plainoldmechanic - 03 Nov 2005 02:58 GMT
> 200K I'd say you got your moneys worth out of that converter. Definately
> can't hurt to replace it. since you didn't mention any noticable power loss when not in gear, i wonder if perhaps there may be something actually "holding" you back ? your comment about feeling as though you were towing something huge made me think of a situation i had encountered once where the emergency brake was applied and the brake light inside was burnt out and since my friend "never used" his emergency brake, he never thought to check it. same symtoms, same problem description, drive your truck and see if front wheel centers are getting too hot which could implicate a caliper sticking, just a wild shot but i know for a fact that this is possible..
The Doctor - 03 Nov 2005 03:44 GMT
Already checked the brakes to see if they were stuck or hung up...no on
either one ...all four wheels spin freely when truck is lifted....The
Doctor
lugnut - 03 Nov 2005 04:04 GMT
>200K I'd say you got your moneys worth out of that converter. Definately
>can't hurt to replace it.
If it doesn't need it, it will eat a $400 hole in your
pocket for nothing - that's what it'll hurt. The idea is to
diagnose the damn thing - not rebuild it just to be sure the
bases are covered.
Luignut
Ad absurdum per aspera - 03 Nov 2005 18:31 GMT
>> 200K I'd say you got your moneys worth out of that converter. Definately
>> can't hurt to replace it.
>If it doesn't need it, it will eat a $400 hole in your pocket for nothing
...potentially again and again! My theory is that converters
sometimes just die but more usually get killed by something upstream.
>diagnose
Absolutely. A fellow can throw parts at something like this for a long
time without hitting the right one. Whoever suggested sticking a
trouble code scanner into the On-Board Diagnostics II connector had the
right idea -- combined with a good read of the shop manual. And it's a
device that will be of ongoing usefulness.
Cheers,
--Joe
The Doctor - 03 Nov 2005 20:41 GMT
I'm getting it scanned Friday ...the check engine light does come on
every so often (usually when doing 70 mph straight for more than 3
minutes) but does not stay on. Again, its only under certain
conditions. I will check the brakes again, but I'm fairly certain
that's not it...I will certainly post results after I have the codes
read on Fri! The Doctor
Bob - 04 Nov 2005 01:46 GMT
> I'm getting it scanned Friday ...the check engine light does come on
> every so often (usually when doing 70 mph straight for more than 3
> minutes) but does not stay on. Again, its only under certain
> conditions. I will check the brakes again, but I'm fairly certain
> that's not it...I will certainly post results after I have the codes
> read on Fri! The Doctor
It's not your brakes, if they were dragging that bad you'd have major smoke
after 3 minutes of 70 mph.
Bob
lugnut - 03 Nov 2005 04:21 GMT
>Recently, about 2 months ago, my 1996 Ford F250 started bucking when
>going up a long grade. At about that time, I noticed my mileage was
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>4000 miles. Could this *possibly* be a plugged up converter? Any help
>on this would be great! Thanks~ The Doctor
You '96 should have OBD-II on it. Have it scanned for fault
codes which may provide a clue especially if it is
misfiring. Many parts stores will do this free on the
chance you will buy repair parts from them. If you do this,
write down the exact code and description. Just because it
may provide a particular code does not mean that part is the
defect. It must be interpreted along with other symptoms if
any.
As far as check outs to start, use a residue free electrical
cleaner and clean the MAF sensor in the air intake. You may
be able to get at it thru the intake tube. If not, it can
be removed with a tamper resistant torx bit. You can buy a
set of these at many parts store for under $10. Check
inside your vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator for
fuel. If there is fuel, the regulator is shot causing
excess pressure. It still may be bad,s o a fuel pressure
check is probably a good idea. The test guage kit is about
$40. I am assuming you have kept the plugs, wires, cap and
rotor maintained. If not, a good basic tuneup is in order.
After you clean the MAF, you should disconnect the battery
for 10-15 minutes to clear the ECM. Restart the engine
without touching anything. Let it idle for a few minutes
and then move the selector thru all the positions for a few
seconds each to allow the engine to relearn it's idle.
Drive it around for a few miles to let it relearn it's
operating parameters and see how it does.
A plugged fuel filter or weak pump can cause a loss of power
but, they rarely cause a drastic drop in fuel mileage
because the fuel pressure is reduced resulting in less fuel
delivered.
As far as the converter is concerned, yes, it can cause a
drop in power and fuel mileage. Usually a plugged converter
will result in an unusual exhaust sound like the engine is
is turning into a vacumm cleaner instead of having a normal
engine exhaust sound. A good muffler shop can remove the O2
sensor and install a test guage to check for excessive
backpressure. If you need a converter and intend to keep
the trck for a long while, make sure they install a name
brand converter or the OEM converter. Walker and Arvin are
OEM suppliers with good products. The best route is the OEM
if you are not sure of the product. MAny generic fitzall
converters that use a single unit to replace 2 or 3
converters do not usually last very long if you must pass
emissions inspection as we do here.
Theer are other things to be done before you spend megabucks
on a converter that won't cost much to check out first.
Good luck
Lugnut
Mike Walsh - 03 Nov 2005 04:37 GMT
A plugged up catalytic converter will cause loss of power, and overheating in warm weather. It will always make the exhaust system very hot.
> Recently, about 2 months ago, my 1996 Ford F250 started bucking when
> going up a long grade. At about that time, I noticed my mileage was
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> 4000 miles. Could this *possibly* be a plugged up converter? Any help
> on this would be great! Thanks~ The Doctor

Signature
Mike Walsh
West Palm Beach, Florida, U.S.A.
Matt - 04 Nov 2005 17:37 GMT
> Recently, about 2 months ago, my 1996 Ford F250 started bucking when
> going up a long grade. At about that time, I noticed my mileage was
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> 4000 miles. Could this *possibly* be a plugged up converter? Any help
> on this would be great! Thanks~ The Doctor
How many miles since you changed your spark plugs and other ignition
parts?
The Doctor - 05 Nov 2005 00:24 GMT
Spark plugs & wires were changed this past summer, no other ignition
parts were changed with that tune-up. The Doctor
Matt - 05 Nov 2005 00:39 GMT
> Spark plugs & wires were changed this past summer, no other ignition
> parts were changed with that tune-up. The Doctor
Maybe now is the most common time of year for ignition problems. I
remember replacing plugs, wires, cap, and coil on my '88 Sable one
Halloween night. That fixed the won't-start problem. I would suspect
the coil.