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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / November 2005installing an intake manifold 95 grand am
does anyone how how to install a intake manifold on a 95 grand am with a 3.1L engine? also does anyone know how difficuit it is? > also does anyone know how difficuit it is? Upper and lower, hrm, I'd give it a 6/10 on the DIY difficulty scale and maybe a 3/10 on the experienced scale. There is some patience required, at least a Haynes manual, more parts to replace than just the intake gaskets and a special tool or two may be required. Steve > does anyone how how to install a intake manifold on a 95 grand am with > a 3.1L engine? I do. I can name a few other people on this group that can as well, but I'll let them answer for themselves. Steve Any experience at all doing this and why? > does anyone how how to install a intake manifold on a 95 grand am with > a 3.1L engine? > does anyone how how to install a intake manifold on a 95 grand am with > a 3.1L engine? I take it you mean intake manifold GASKET. If your car has a missing intake manifold, it has serious problems. Changing the gasket is easily done on a Saturday afternoon in your driveway. Keep track of the intake and exhaust pushrods - they are different lengths. Torque to specs. That's about it. > > does anyone how how to install a intake manifold on a 95 grand am with > > a 3.1L engine? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Keep track of the intake and exhaust pushrods - they are different lengths. > Torque to specs. That's about it. You shouldn't even have to touch the pushrods. >> I take it you mean intake manifold GASKET. >> If your car has a missing intake manifold, it has serious problems. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > You shouldn't even have to touch the pushrods. If you can figure out how to change an intake gasket on a 3100 engine from that year without touching the pushrods, please let me know! It will make the job so much easier! Ian > > You shouldn't even have to touch the pushrods. > > If you can figure out how to change an intake gasket on > a 3100 engine from that year without touching the pushrods, > please let me know! It will make the job so much easier! Well I'll be a monkey's uncle. I didn't think it was any different than the 3.1, but now I see it is. Steve Does anybody know if this is the GM 60 degree V6 engine? > Does anybody know if this is the GM 60 degree V6 engine? Yes. It is a 60 degree V6 engine. > > Does anybody know if this is the GM 60 degree V6 engine? > > Yes. It is a 60 degree V6 engine. If it's the same as my GM v6, the pushrods DO NOT go through the intake manifold. Why would Pontiac have made that mod?  Signatureremove MYSHOES to email > > > Does anybody know if this is the GM 60 degree V6 engine? > > > > Yes. It is a 60 degree V6 engine. > > If it's the same as my GM v6, the pushrods DO NOT go through > the intake manifold. Why would Pontiac have made that mod? What VIN engine do you have? > > > Does anybody know if this is the GM 60 degree V6 engine? > > > > Yes. It is a 60 degree V6 engine. > > If it's the same as my GM v6, the pushrods DO NOT go through > the intake manifold. Why would Pontiac have made that mod? From what I have just figured out, they don't go THROUGH the intake manifold, they go between the lower intake manifold and the head. More specifically, they are between the gasket and the lower manifold. To remove the gasket you need to remove the pushrods. Not the same as the previous 3.1/2.8 as I thought. I'm right in the middle of replacing some bad lifters in my 2.8L 60 degree V6. It's GM's first metric engine. The distributor is in the rear of the engine and it is a 15mm bolt. You must take the distributor off to get the intake manifold off. If you don't have room to get a regular wrench back there, then you have to get a 15mm distributor wrench. That wrench is usually not at auto parts stores; you have to order it like I did. ($10 online http://cgi.ebay.com/Distributor-Clamp-Wrench-13mm-15mm_W0QQitemZ7721983764QQcate goryZ20774QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem ) The following link is the best 411 on this engine that I have found: http://4x4wire.com/tech/60degreeV6/index.htm It mainly shows how to improve the performance of a 2.8L version of this engine, however the pictures and data is great! Cool closeups! Hope this helps. > I'm right in the middle of replacing some bad lifters in my 2.8L 60 > degree V6. It's GM's first metric engine. The distributor is in the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > wrench. That wrench is usually not at auto parts stores; you have to > order it like I did. ($10 online Or make you own in about 5 minutes like I did. > From what I have just figured out, they don't go THROUGH the intake > manifold, they go between the lower intake manifold and the head. More > specifically, they are between the gasket and the lower manifold. To > remove the gasket you need to remove the pushrods. Not the same as > the previous > 3.1/2.8 as I thought. Even on the old original engines, the pushrods (only the intakes or exhausts, can't remember which) did go between the pushrods and the intake manifold....."but"....the gasket had tabbed sections that could be cut out so that when you installed the new gasket, you didn't have to fool with the pushrods. The next generation had the plastic gaskets which you couldn't cut, so you had to remove half the pushrods...then the final generation had the intake gasket under all the pushrods (pushrod guides are basically built right into the gasket) and you need to remove all the pushrods. For those who do a lot of these intake gaskets, I use an 11mm line wrench to lift the rocker arms and simply extract the push rod that way. You may need to rotate the engine slightly to get clearance on a few of the pushrods. This saves a lot of time, especially since it's not necessary to remove the rear valve cover when replacing an intake manifold gasket on the newer generation of these engines. Ian > For those who do a lot of these intake gaskets, I use an 11mm > line wrench to lift the rocker arms and simply extract the push [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Ian Thanks Ian, I hadn't thought of that but it's a damn good shortcut! Thanks again... Bob > Thanks Ian, I hadn't thought of that but it's a damn good shortcut! > Thanks again... Bob, if by chance you haven't done a GM 3100/3400 intake by "not" removing the rear valve cover....let me know if you need any additional info. It's pretty straightforward and I don't doubt that you can figure it out on your own. It sure saves time on the Venture vans...you do not have to fool around with the alternator or the coil pack bracket. I use an 8mm "gearwrench" to undo the two valve cover bolts that need to be loosened off. You can also get the ps pump out of the way by simply loosening the pressure line at the pump and pulling the lines out of the plastic clip down at the front right side of the block. Remove fuel injectors before the pump, and re-install the injectors "after" the pump is re-installed. If you work on very new engines, the cam sensor is wired differently. You must remove the injectors, but you can't disconnect the cam sensor until the ps pump is removed. Even then, it's easier to unbolt the sensor from the block, then attempt to remove the connector...plus...the sensor interferes with the intake and "can" get broken. Best to just remove it completely and re-install it "after" the intake is back in place. For some reason, the newer manifolds also seem to interfere slightly with the left rocker arms and the thermostat housing when you go to install it. Just slightly loosen the thermostat housing bolts (gasket is a rubber seal...no problem there) and it will slide in place. Good luck...and may you beat the flat rate every time! Ian > you do not have to fool > around with the alternator or the coil pack bracket. I use > an 8mm "gearwrench" to undo the two valve cover bolts > that need to be loosened off. Firstly, thanks for all the great advice, Ian. Secondly, if you haven't tried the flex head GearWrenches yet, get them. They are awesome. You can find them individually for about $12 - $20 at various online tool stores. The kits offer a large discount if you want to get seven at once. Craftsmen has metric and standard kits (same product as KD brand) for the best price I've seen. The Matco version is a better made, more expensive version. I have both Matco US made and KD imports and the KDs have given no problems. Toyota MDT in MO > Firstly, thanks for all the great advice, Ian. Secondly, if you > haven't tried the flex head GearWrenches yet, get them. They are > awesome. You can find them individually for about $12 - $20 at > various online tool stores. Yes, I plan to get some more GearWrenches. I will give the flex head ones a try. I use these wrenches all the time. I've seen some of the "sets", but they often seem to leave out one size that I need, so I've just bought the wrenches individually up till now. Ian > You shouldn't even have to touch the pushrods. Unless you want to remove the intake lower manifold... 6 pushrods are in the way and the exaust pushrods are slightly longer than the intakes. These are things to be very aware of on reassembly. Toyota MDT in MO > > does anyone how how to install a intake manifold on a 95 grand am with > > a 3.1L engine? [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Changing the gasket is easily done on a Saturday afternoon in your driveway. > Keep track of the intake and exhaust pushrods - they are different lengths. And why is that? The pushrods travel through the intake manifold ?!?!? Signatureremove MYSHOES to email > does anyone how how to install a intake manifold on a 95 grand am with > a 3.1L engine? http://www.apa.ca/template.asp?DocID=23#General%20Motors 3.1L and 3.4L engines: check for oil and coolant leaks at the intake manifold gasket after 80,000 km. Please visit the Investigations section of our site if you experienced this problem. Investigations section: http://www.apa.ca/template.asp?DocID=115 Also: http://forums.vmag.com/mvmontana1199/messages/99.html Signatureremove MYSHOES to email |
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