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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / November 2005

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golf clutch fault... slave or master ???

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jr2 - 28 Nov 2005 19:44 GMT
Hi there,

Volkswagen Golf  P Reg. TDI

The clutch pedal is getting closer to the floor making a gear shift
difficult / noisy.

I can however pull it back to nomal position... but it will slowly over
weeks go back down again.

Is It liable to be the master or slave cylinder that's at fault.

Probably both should be done ... but the master cylinder is pricey and
difficult to fit,
in comparison to the slave...

                                                               ...any
ideas ???
fweddybear - 28 Nov 2005 20:32 GMT
> Hi there,
>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>                                                                ...any
> ideas ???

   Well, you don't mention how many miles you have on it, or when the last
time you changed fluid was, or even if it is low, but if it isn't slipping,
then it probably isn't the clutch.  The master cylinder is for your brakes
and the slave cylinder is for your clutch, so if you find it hard shifting,
you may want to flush out the fluid out of both and replace with new fluid
and also make sure the slave cylinder has enough pressure in it.  I had a
similar problem with one of my vehicles where it was hard to shift... the
pedal seemed worked fine and all, but once in a while the shift lever was
hard to take out of and put in gear.  My mechanic did just as I am
mentioning here... and all has been fine since...

good Luck

Fwed
Misterbeets - 28 Nov 2005 22:14 GMT
I know of no way to test them individually, so you should replace the
slave.
jr2 - 29 Nov 2005 09:30 GMT
I already agree with you Misterbeets  because it's the cheaper/easier
option...

BUT...  significantly the symptoms ...whereby the pedal edges it's way
to the floor
are indicative of a tired return spring in the master cylinder...

so...I'll bite the bullet and do the master first.

FACT : 1. Hugo... There is no rust around the slave. I agree this would
have been important.
(and obviously none on the master.)

FACT : 2. Be careful what you read on the "net"...  fweddy bear reckons
the master clutch cylinder is for your brakes.   tut tut...

FACT : 3.    screwballtarius97 ....    and    98,    and   99, .......
Hugo Schmeisser - 29 Nov 2005 12:31 GMT
> I already agree with you Misterbeets  because it's the cheaper/easier
> option...
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> FACT : 1. Hugo... There is no rust around the slave.

The rust is INSIDE. You can't see it until you disassemble the clyinder
and look down the bore.
jr2 - 29 Nov 2005 12:46 GMT
OK buddie I've changed tack its gotta be the slave...as specially as a
volks specialist who I priced the parts (for the 5th. time) has said
that the slave will mormally go first...
fweddybear - 29 Nov 2005 18:45 GMT
> OK buddie I've changed tack its gotta be the slave...as specially as a
> volks specialist who I priced the parts (for the 5th. time) has said
> that the slave will mormally go first...

   That was initially my diagnosis too....how bout that sports vans???? lol

Fwed
Mike Romain - 29 Nov 2005 19:49 GMT
> > OK buddie I've changed tack its gotta be the slave...as specially as a
> > volks specialist who I priced the parts (for the 5th. time) has said
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Fwed

Fewd, the slave cylinder is down at the transmission, the clutch master
cylinder is up beside the brake master cylinder some place.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:  Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
fweddybear - 29 Nov 2005 23:37 GMT
>> > OK buddie I've changed tack its gotta be the slave...as specially as a
>> > volks specialist who I priced the parts (for the 5th. time) has said
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

   Yikes.... what a place  for that!!

Fwed
Mike Romain - 29 Nov 2005 19:55 GMT
Let me get this right....

You can physically reach down and pull the pedal up and it will be fine
for a while????

I would be under the strong opinion you are missing a spring on the top
of the pedal inside the cab.  

That would mean the weight of the pedal is bouncing on the small piston
spring inside the master and holding on the masters piston's seal for a
while.  Eventually the fluid is getting past the seal so the pedal only
travels a short distance and the clutch will start to grind and not want
to go into gear.

I think this might mean you need a new master 'someday', but only a top
pedal spring today.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:  Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

> I already agree with you Misterbeets  because it's the cheaper/easier
> option...
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> FACT : 3.    screwballtarius97 ....    and    98,    and   99, .......
jr2 - 29 Nov 2005 21:57 GMT
Mike ...the theory about the pedal spring in the cab ...someone else
suggested that to me tonight ... all will be revealed tomorrow night
when I get the car to look at.
Mike Romain - 29 Nov 2005 23:20 GMT
I would be interested in hearing.

Mike

> Mike ...the theory about the pedal spring in the cab ...someone else
> suggested that to me tonight ... all will be revealed tomorrow night
> when I get the car to look at.
Hugo Schmeisser - 30 Nov 2005 01:13 GMT
> Let me get this right....
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> I would be under the strong opinion you are missing a spring on the
> top of the pedal inside the cab.

I had the clutch pedal return spring on my Honda break once (made a
sort of a "doink" noise when it snapped).

The pedal worked fine without it except it exhibited very little
resistance to foot pressure. Really threw my clutch/accelerator timing
off. I did not expect that the pedal spring would have had that much
effect on pedal pressure, but it did.

It cost $3 and took all of fifteen (fiddly) minutes to replace.
jr2 - 30 Nov 2005 18:13 GMT
Let me get this right....

You can physically reach down and pull the pedal up and it will be fine

for a while????

I would be under the strong opinion you are missing a spring on the top

of the pedal inside the cab.

That would mean the weight of the pedal is bouncing on the small piston

spring inside the master and holding on the masters piston's seal for a

while.  Eventually the fluid is getting past the seal so the pedal only

travels a short distance and the clutch will start to grind and not
want
to go into gear.

I think this might mean you need a new master 'someday', but only a top

pedal spring today.

NO simple explanation yet...

But It's ironic that you suspected a missing spring from the top of the
pedal because that's almost the situation I've found...

I say almost because there is a return spring fitted which is very
strong looking and lubricated and seems to be working ok...

But at the top of the strange shaped pedal there is a linkage type
connection which has nothing to it , maybe it's not always used. But
the pedal is definitely under spring pressure.

I'm gonna leave well alone and see if we get the decent weather before
it goes wrong again ... we have ice and snow outside now and my garage
is too cluttered to get in with the car.
Hugo Schmeisser - 29 Nov 2005 00:13 GMT
> Hi there,
>
>  Volkswagen Golf  P Reg. TDI

This must be P-Reg second time round for it. The first P-Regs had a
clutch cable that was notorious for pulling through the bulkhead.

> The clutch pedal is getting closer to the floor making a gear shift
> difficult / noisy.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> difficult to fit,
> in comparison to the slave...

Does no harm to pull the slave off and peek inside. Is there corrosion?

Could easily be either, really.
screwballtarius97 - 29 Nov 2005 02:47 GMT
Hi last week my ford tarus start injected fluid everywhere so I pulled over had it tow and so called repaired  being told it was a $19.00 connection part that caused the problem.  Later in the week my car wouldn't go over 20 mph without rev up to 4,000 rpm. I was then told by mechicanic to pay 1,330.00 for rebuilt trans or $4,000 for a new one. I ask him was he crazy that all the car is probably worth.  After going to another trans place I was then told I only need 2 sensors and pay $75.oo for labor and this could sovle the problem but since they fix it my car is had to steer in reverse what now

--
screwballtarius97
John S. - 29 Nov 2005 19:41 GMT
> Hi there,
>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>                                                                 ...any
> ideas ???

The slave usually goes first because it is the most exposed to road
dirt, salt and moisture.
 
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