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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / December 2005Price of DIY synthetic oil change
YEOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Let me start off by saying, simply...OUCH! Now, nobody is forcing me to do this, nevertheless: 5 quarts 5W20 Mobil 1 @ 5.49/quart 1 bottle STP fuel system cleaner at 7.99 Mobil 1 oil filter M1-209 @ 10.99 ( dollars! ) 1 Chiltons on CD-ROM for my Sable 19.99 Tax @ 5.15 ____________________________________________ $71.57 This is without question, the MOST EXPENSIVE OIL CHANGE I'VE EVER DONE IN MY LIFE! I am 60 years old. I don't intend to change the oil until next SPRING after I do this ! Purchased at Pepboys, 12/01/2005 Jiffy lube anybody? nahhhhhhhh! Lg > YEOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > Lg I'm averaging about $45 an oil change for the 944, which uses 7 quarts. I just use Wix or Purolator filters depending on which parts store I'm convenient to. Shell Rotella T Syn. 5W40 oil this time around and it seems to like that viscosity (Mobil 1 15W50 was too thick but Mobil 1 0W40 was a little on the thin side...) nate >> YEOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >> [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >> >> Lg ========================================================= >I'm averaging about $45 an oil change for the 944, which uses 7 quarts. > I just use Wix or Purolator filters depending on which parts store I'm [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >nate This gets a little *freaky* Nate. The bottle says: "Mobil 1 0w-20 Fully Sythetic Performance for 5W-20 Applications Recommended for Ford & Honda 5W-20 Service" So what is it really? I just opened a bottle and it looks a little bit like ICED TEA ;-\ I don't know. Really...never used synthetic before ever. I wish I had a bottle of Valvoline 5W-20 to compare it to, but that's out in the garage at 0 degrees Farenheit at the moment ;-\ I looked at all the *blends* of dino/synthetic and some other kinds, but have the data sheet on Mobil 1 and it _specifically_ says it is designed for FORD 5W-20 applications, first thing, right at the top of the bottle, so...that's why. We shall see. My ^&%$ are still a little painful when I sit down after going through the cash register. BTW, how OFTEN do you change your *synthetic*? How often do you change the oil, and How often do you change the filter? Lg > >> YEOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > >> [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] > bit like ICED TEA ;-\ I don't know. Really...never used synthetic > before ever. It's real thin when it's cold (good) but meets 20 weight specs when hot (what Ford specifies) so you should be good to go. > I wish I had a bottle of Valvoline 5W-20 to compare it to, but that's > out in the garage at 0 degrees Farenheit at the moment ;-\ It will be a *lot* thinner than the Valvoline then... that's a good thing. less wear and tear on your starter and better lubrication quicker on a cold start. Even a 0Wxx oil still thins out when hot; the two numbers are not directly comparable. It just thins out *LESS* than a 5Wxx or 10Wxx; the viscosity remains more stable over its range of operating temperatures, which is pretty wide if you think about it - whatever your lowest ambient temp. is to maybe 230F or higher if you drive hard. > I looked at all the *blends* of dino/synthetic and some other kinds, > but have the data sheet on Mobil 1 and it _specifically_ says it is > designed for FORD 5W-20 applications, first thing, right at the top of > the bottle, so...that's why. It's probably just fine. Mobil 1 makes some fine products; the reason I'm not using it is that a) Porsche specs a 20W40 or 20W50 oil b) the Mobil 1 15W50 really does seem to tax the starter motor in cold weather, and I can tell that it's still opening the OPRV when it's hot at anything off idle, and I'm working off the thin oil = better flow = happier engine theory c) the Mobil 1 0W40 is reputed to be a fairly thin 40 weight when hot and finally d) I've been completely unable to find the Mobil 1 5W40 "Truck and SUV" formulation for sale anywhere, which is supposedly an excellent oil, or the Delvac 1 5W40 which is the "fleet" synthetic oil (Mobil's equivalent of the Rotella that I'm using.) None of which is really relevant to your vehicle. > We shall see. My ^&%$ are still a little painful when I sit down > after going through the cash register. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > and > How often do you change the filter? Porsche says 7500 miles (and this is in an owner's manual printed in 1988, no less) but I've been changing them both closer to 5000 just because I can't be arsed to do a UOA, and I suspect that the rod bearings are not in the greatest shape (there's a known issue with them, and when hot, I can see a little tiny deflection in the oil pressure gauge between throttle-on and throttle-off. Actually this is why I didn't use the 0W40 this time around, the deflection was much more pronounced with that oil, but it did seem noticeably happier on cold mornings.) If you really want to get obessed with oil-geekery, check out bobistheoilguy.com... nate > $71.57 > > This is without question, the MOST EXPENSIVE OIL CHANGE I'VE EVER DONE > IN MY LIFE! I am 60 years old. Were you expecting an old age allowance? :-) I don't intend to change the oil > until next SPRING after I do this ! 60 years old and you are starting to live on the wild side? Are you sure this is wise at your age? Huw >> $71.57 >> >> This is without question, the MOST EXPENSIVE OIL CHANGE I'VE EVER DONE >> IN MY LIFE! I am 60 years old. > >Were you expecting an old age allowance? :-) I already get $1 off a Happy Meal at McDonald's. What else can a man ask for? > I don't intend to change the oil >> until next SPRING after I do this ! > >60 years old and you are starting to live on the wild side? Are you sure >this is wise at your age? I'll monitor my pulse and respiration as soon as I start the engine on the new synthetic. I am anticipating High Spiritual Arousal, of the Nirvanic Kind, knowing that this Gift from God is circulating in my oil galleries. Considering I am going to have an Epiphany, a Moment of Enlightenment and therefore will be one step closer to the Almighty, I might fasten my seat belt BEFORE I start the engine, rather than after. Lg >Huw >>> $71.57 >>> [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > Lg Good move. Wear a parachute too. Huw > YEOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > Lg Wal-Mart sells 5-quart bottles of Mobil 1 for $20. Not sure why you're using the fuel system cleaner for an oil change, or why you're counting a Chilton's CD in the price of an oil change, but...... OK :) >> YEOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >> [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > using the fuel system cleaner for an oil change, or why you're counting a > Chilton's CD in the price of an oil change, but...... OK :) That's just how Larry does things. He can't add a quart of washer fluid without somehow making a big deal out of it. >>> YEOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >>> [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] >That's just how Larry does things. He can't add a quart of washer fluid >without somehow making a big deal out of it. And that's just how Bob does things. I can't make a post without him jumping on my a.s for it. Is this a Fatal Attraction you have for me Bob? Do you dream about me at night and wake up in the morning with a stiff willie in your hand? Lg >> YEOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >> [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] >using the fuel system cleaner for an oil change, or why you're counting >a Chilton's CD in the price of an oil change, but...... OK :) Well OK subtract $20 from the 71.57 and we're down to a comfortable 51 something ;-) I guess I didn't know about the Wal-Mart thing. Last I checked Wal-Mart I did not see _my_ viscosity oil in a Mobil 1 container. I had to go to Pepboys to find the 5W-20 my engine calls for. So, I spent a couple extra bucks to put the right stuff in, instead of saving $5 and putting the wrong stuff in. This oil isn't all that common in my area. It is just beginning to show up on store shelves now, in the 5W-20 viscosity. Before then, Mobil 1 was available for years, but in grades I couldn't use. Lg > YEOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Jiffy lube anybody? Well my last visit to Quick lube (stripped my oil drain plug) cost me new oil plus additional $2.49 oversized oil drain plug $7.00 tap for new oil drain plug As for OIL .... It was suggested to me on one of these groups that straight up synthetic is not really neccessary unless you are running high performance and that a blend would give almost the same great protection with lower cost and if one did use full synthetic with good filter one could go longer between changes ?? guess need to do a group search ?? So you could reduce cost by going with Mobil Synthetic Blend ~$2.89 Qt or make your own blend 2Qt Mobil 1 + 3 Qt Mobil 5000 I use 1 Qt Mobil 1 + 3 Qt Mobil 5000 with (Mobil One Filter or Purulator Pure One Filter) every 5K miles and i have 197K with no big oil problem or engine probs (so far) HTH robb >> YEOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >> [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] >$2.49 oversized oil drain plug >$7.00 tap for new oil drain plug I would have thought whomever stripped the threads would be responsible for paying for the damages. >As for OIL .... > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >did use full synthetic with good filter one could go longer between changes >?? guess need to do a group search ?? I've been reading -about- synthetics for a long time. I just thought it was time to do something besides thinking about it. I am tempted to say we could all go longer between changes. The Europeans certainly do, from what I read in the n/g's. >So you could reduce cost by going with Mobil Synthetic Blend ~$2.89 Qt or >make your own blend 2Qt Mobil 1 + 3 Qt Mobil 5000 Interesting idea. >I use 1 Qt Mobil 1 + 3 Qt Mobil 5000 with (Mobil One Filter or Purulator >Pure One Filter) every 5K miles and i have 197K with no big oil problem or >engine probs (so far) > >HTH >robb IIRC, 5K is about a *normal service interval* for even my automobile. I've been overdoing things with my 3K changes, no doubt. Now I'm probably going to go for 7,500 miles before changing this stuff, which isn't a blend, but pure synthetic. As to how often to change the filter? I'll guess maybe once every 4 months, as I have no way to measure it's remaining capacity. With that filter goes 1 quart of oil. Since I hardly do any highway driving, it is going to take a _long_time_ to put 7,500 miles on the odometer. Maybe 6 months. Lg >IIRC, 5K is about a *normal service interval* for even my automobile. >I've been overdoing things with my 3K changes, no doubt. Now I'm [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >measure it's remaining capacity. With that filter goes 1 quart of >oil. I tend to use synthetic and change every 3,000 miles. This is overkill, you may argue. But I got 480,000 miles on my last car without ever having to take even the valve covers off the engine. I'm up to 220,000 miles on the current car. I figure I might be doing something right. >Since I hardly do any highway driving, it is going to take a >_long_time_ to put 7,500 miles on the odometer. Maybe 6 months. Problem is that I get that in about two weeks. On the other hand, I never need to replace my muffler! --scott  Signature"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." > I tend to use synthetic and change every 3,000 miles. This is overkill, > you may argue. But I got 480,000 miles on my last car without ever having > to take even the valve covers off the engine. I'm up to 220,000 miles > on the current car. Yeah, I'd argue that. My parents do 5k oil changes with the cheapest properly-rated oil, and they're at 300k or so right now on a 1984 VW. Have had to take the valve cover off, but that's because it has mechanical valves that need adjustment every 50k or so. > Problem is that I get that in about two weeks. On the other hand, I > never need to replace my muffler! That's probably why you get so many miles out. You're doing lots of highway miles. Highway miles are easy on oil and engines. Do 5k changes at least - you'll nearly halve your cost of oil changes and I would be absolutely shocked if you didn't get the same service out of your engine. -Keith Keith Jewell <implode@gmail.com> wrote in article <1133538978.095077.250230@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>... > That's probably why you get so many miles out. You're doing lots of > highway miles. Highway miles are easy on oil and engines. That's not totally accurate...... Inner-city taxicabs, ansd delivery vehicles - that hardly ever get over 40 m.p.h. - also have long-term engine life... The fact is that a car that is started, fully warmed up - or "normalized" - then driven long enough in the warmed-up state to burn off condensation and contaminants - which form sludge and acids in the oil - will last for a long period of time. The killer is the car that is started, driven 5-10 miles to work, then driven the same distance home - highway or inner-city. The engine never gets the chance to burn off the condensation and contaminants which kill the oil's lubricating properties. Most cars that are driven on the highway, are usually driven long-enough periods of time to fully normalize, and burn off contaminants. Inner-city driving, on the other hand, usually involves much shorter trips in which the engine temperature never normalizes. BUT......it is the amount of TIME that an engine is run - not the city/highway driving conditions - that makes the difference. That is also the major contributor to exhaust system life - the amount of TIME that an exhaust system is "hot" - burning off the condensation that rusts the system out from the inside. > >> YEOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > >> [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > I would have thought whomever stripped the threads would be > responsible for paying for the damages. well they are resposible but all they wanted to do is blame me because they could not possibly have done that , then only offered a free oil change (haha) for my trouble , but mostly because I was bringing to much attention from customers [snip other stuff] robb You wasted the money on the STP fuel system cleaner. It is virtually worthless and is certainly not needed if you have been using decent gas. The CD-ROM should not have been needed for an oil change. And you'd been at least as well off with the proper Motorcraft oil filter for $3. Plus the Mobil 1 would have been cheaper at Sam's Club or Wal*Mart. 6 Quarts for $30 or so ($5 a quart). It seems to me your actual cost should have been closer to $30, which is less than half of what you spent. > You wasted the money on the STP fuel system cleaner. It is virtually > worthless and is certainly not needed if you have been using decent [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > actual cost should have been closer to $30, which is less than half of > what you spent. Well, there's reasons not to patronize Sam's or Wal-Mart, so I can respect that... nate (somewhat sad that I *did* buy my oil there, as they tend to have a better selection than any of my FLAPS.) >You wasted the money on the STP fuel system cleaner. It is virtually >worthless Duh? I just read a post here withing the last week saying it was *good stuff* to paraphrase. "Virtually worthless?" That sounds a bit harsh. > and is certainly not needed if you have been using decent >gas. 87 Octane, up to 10% methanol. That isn't *good gas.* Speedway generic stuff. > The CD-ROM should not have been needed for an oil change. I've been looking up things having to do with the fuel system that my Haynes Manual didn't have. Not needed for the oil change, but it is *nice* to be able to type in a word/phrase and find EVERY instance of it in Acrobat Reader at the push of a button. The photos are very helpful also. > And >you'd been at least as well off with the proper Motorcraft oil filter >for $3. Really! Now that IS a surprise, as I have 3 filters NIB sitting on the table here, all Motorcraft FL-400S > Plus the Mobil 1 would have been cheaper at Sam's Club or >Wal*Mart. 6 Quarts for $30 or so ($5 a quart). It seems to me your >actual cost should have been closer to $30, which is less than half of >what you spent. I'll keep that in mind. I thought I _had_ to go with a Mobil 1 filter if I was going to switch to Mobil 1 synthetic. Believe me, NOBODY at this Pepboys store was going to tell me what you just did ! Lg > >You wasted the money on the STP fuel system cleaner. It is virtually > >worthless [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > if I was going to switch to Mobil 1 synthetic. Believe me, NOBODY at > this Pepboys store was going to tell me what you just did ! Pepboys ! I have had poor experiences with them as well Advance will sell you a Oil drain plug washer for $0.37 (cents) They were out so i visit Pepboys Pepboys will happily only suggest and sell me a new drain plug with washer for $4.59 even though they have a package of assorted oil drain plug washers for half that price two hooks down. (jerks) there is a web site that has good review and comparison of oil filters that shows how alot of branded oil filters are MFG by same company and re-labeled for re sale under brand , do not think Mobil 1 was one of those (when i find link i will post) robb "Rob B" <RobB@where.on.net> wrote in message news:lj1kf.8231$N4 > there is a web site that has good review and comparison of oil filters that > shows how alot of branded oil filters are MFG by same company and re-labeled > for re sale under brand , do not think Mobil 1 was one of those (when i find > link i will post) http://dyeager535.topcities.com/oilfilterstudy1.html#mobil1 > "Rob B" <RobB@where.on.net> wrote in message news:lj1kf.8231$N4 > > there is a web site that has good review and comparison of oil filters [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > http://dyeager535.topcities.com/oilfilterstudy1.html#mobil1 Thats the one , now i can add back to favorites thx >> "Rob B" <RobB@where.on.net> wrote in message news:lj1kf.8231$N4 >> > there is a web site that has good review and comparison of oil filters [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > >thx The message that website contradicts the information on the Mobil 1 oil filter box: to wit: website: ============================================================== I have received many reports of these filters failing at high pressures. It seems that the seam where the backplate crimps to the case can split. ============================================================== shipping carton: ============================================================== Mobil 1 filters are designed to withstand five time the normal system operating pressure. ============================================================== So, which is it? Who is telling the truth and who is lying? Lg > >> "Rob B" <RobB@where.on.net> wrote in message news:lj1kf.8231$N4 > >> > there is a web site that has good review and comparison of oil filters [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > Lg well on the website he says the can seems to be of heavier construction than other filters and has no direct experience with failures , only that other have reported them Too bad he didn't run some other tests like burst pressure tests to see if claims could be supported with real evidence they have not failed in my car, and i wonder what sort of high pressure these reported failures occured ? somebody try to filter the high side of a back-hoe hydraulic cylinder robb >> >> "Rob B" <RobB@where.on.net> wrote in message news:lj1kf.8231$N4 >> >> > there is a web site that has good review and comparison of oil [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] > >robb I'm going to check google groups and do a web search for failed Mobil 1 filters. Lg >> >> "Rob B" <RobB@where.on.net> wrote in message news:lj1kf.8231$N4 >> >> > there is a web site that has good review and comparison of oil [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] > >robb I'm going to check google groups and do a web search for failed Mobil 1 filters. ======================================================== There is this: "Mobil 1 ML209 (& M1-301 oversized) Mobil 1 oil and oil filters have long had an outstanding reputation. The filters have a synthetic element media and the strongest shell on the market. The outside shell is .0195" thick on the large ML-301 or .0170" thick on the smaller ML209. Mobil 1 is maybe the most forthcoming with information since for a long time they have been the 100-year-old scotch of quality oil filters. They are proud of their "Hydrostatic Burst" values which are three times the SAE standard. Their "Pressure Impulse Cycles to Failure" values which are the highest, and only ones I have found; which mean the guts of the filter are made like a tank. The whole filter is an engineering exercise in loving design excess. Is it the best oil filter made or has anyone come up with a better design while Mobil 1 has rested on it's reputation? Lacking extensive and expensive laboratory tests I can only say Mobil Oil filters are somewhere in the top three, in a class of outstanding over achievers. Like all top shelf oil filters the going rate seems to be about $10 off the shelf or $9 if you can cheese a jobber price. http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lubrication-oilpart5.htm ====================================================== So far, I haven't come across a single *failure* report regarding a Mobil 1 oil filter. Anybody? Lg >> >> "Rob B" <RobB@where.on.net> wrote in message news:lj1kf.8231$N4 >> >> > there is a web site that has good review and comparison of oil [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] > >robb I'm going to check google groups and do a web search for failed Mobil 1 filters. ======================================================== There is this: "Mobil 1 ML209 (& M1-301 oversized) Mobil 1 oil and oil filters have long had an outstanding reputation. The filters have a synthetic element media and the strongest shell on the market. The outside shell is .0195" thick on the large ML-301 or .0170" thick on the smaller ML209. Mobil 1 is maybe the most forthcoming with information since for a long time they have been the 100-year-old scotch of quality oil filters. They are proud of their "Hydrostatic Burst" values which are three times the SAE standard. Their "Pressure Impulse Cycles to Failure" values which are the highest, and only ones I have found; which mean the guts of the filter are made like a tank. The whole filter is an engineering exercise in loving design excess. Is it the best oil filter made or has anyone come up with a better design while Mobil 1 has rested on it's reputation? Lacking extensive and expensive laboratory tests I can only say Mobil Oil filters are somewhere in the top three, in a class of outstanding over achievers. Like all top shelf oil filters the going rate seems to be about $10 off the shelf or $9 if you can cheese a jobber price. http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lubrication-oilpart5.htm ====================================================== So far, I haven't come across a single *failure* report regarding a Mobil 1 oil filter. Anybody? Lg so...here is my *new* oil maintenance schedule ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ M1's great for cold starts as it's pumpability at lower viscosities is excellent. I don't even hear any valve clatter after a routine oil/filter change. Oil life is dependent on lots of factors - driving style, environment, filter change frequency, etc. A Mobil rep ( & John Lingenfelter ) gave me this tip to save some money & still ensure lubrication protection: Change oil & filter; drive 5k & change just the filter; go another 5k ( total of 10k on the oil ) then start all over with a fresh oil & filter change. I've torn down a few engines with over 100k mileage on them while utilizing this maintenance schedule & found NO unusual wear on the rings, pushrods, cylinder walls or any of the rotating equipment - plus no buildup of sludge in the valve covers. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-22801.html Research Research Research Lg "Lawrence Glickman" <Lawrence_Glickman@comcast.net> wrote in message > So far, I haven't come across a single *failure* report regarding a > Mobil 1 oil filter. > > Anybody? > > Lg Ive never heard of an oil filter of ANY manufacturer bursting. It could have happened but must be a very rare event. You have to be very careful of the urban legendry of oil filters. There is a lot of opinion about, but very little statistically significant information. Cutting open a filter and making assumptions about its ability to do a certain job borders on foolish. >"Lawrence Glickman" <Lawrence_Glickman@comcast.net> wrote in message >> [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >a lot of opinion about, but very little statistically significant >information. It appears that Mobil is more than willing to share THEIR statistically significant information with the general public. I don't see anyone else doing that. >Cutting open a filter and making assumptions about its ability to do a >certain job borders on foolish. I did it once. Doesn't prove much. I thing the hydrostatic and pulse pressure tests are the measure by which the physical integrity of the container should be measured. Then there is the media. How much of it is there. The more media, the more contaminants that can be trapped before the bypass valve opens. Then there is the nature of the media. Is it cheap newspaper that is going to end up cycling through the bypass valve and end up in the engine? What about the anti-drain-back valve? What about the sealing gasket? What about? What about? What about? Where are the numbers? It seems to me that Mobil is the only one coming forth with the numbers. Everybody else is selling hyperbole. Lg > What about? What about? What about? Where are the numbers? It > seems to me that Mobil is the only one coming forth with the numbers. > Everybody else is selling hyperbole. > > Lg Fully agree. Show me the numbers. A lot of the filter manufacturers ( relabelers in many cases) make broad claims but offer no rigid data. Filtration is not the simple phenomenon many take it to be either. >> What about? What about? What about? Where are the numbers? It >> seems to me that Mobil is the only one coming forth with the numbers. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > >Filtration is not the simple phenomenon many take it to be either. There are a lot of *claims* by both the consuming public/users and the manufacturers. I'm having a difficult time tracking down hard data. For example, 1 guy *claims* that Mobil 1 filters can come apart at the crimp where the baseplate is attached to the cannister. Bullocks. It is the EXACT same crimp used on EVERY oil filter I have ever seen. I want names and numbers. This same guy reports more *claims* of leaks at the gasket/engine block seal. AGAIN, bull$hit, without data to back it up. I know this thing is laboratory tested and rated for hydrostatic pressure that exceed the SAE standard by 5 TIMES. In fact, the filter says on the box, it needs to be tightened 3/4 to 1 turn after the gasket makes contact with the sealing surface of the engine. You can't DO THAT without a filter wrench. I know you can't do that without a filter wrench. In fact, it is hard to do =with= a filter wrench. In conclusion, IF there are leaks, it is because the filter isn't be rotated on the ballscrew _enough_. This oil/oil-filter rhetoric is LOADED with allegations, but in a Court of Law ( MY "court of law ) I need to see the evidence to back up the assertions. Innocent until proven guilty. IOW, libelous slander, without FACTS, which seem hard to come by unless I do the experiments _myself_. Lg "Lawrence Glickman" <Lawrence_Glickman@comcast.net> wrote in message > In fact, the filter says on the box, it needs to be tightened 3/4 to 1 > turn after the gasket makes contact with the sealing surface of the > engine. You can't DO THAT without a filter wrench. I know you can't > do that without a filter wrench. In fact, it is hard to do =with= a > filter wrench. Well, actually, I CAN do it, Larry, but I am a tough old far+ >"Lawrence Glickman" <Lawrence_Glickman@comcast.net> wrote in message >> In fact, the filter says on the box, it needs to be tightened 3/4 to 1 [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > >Well, actually, I CAN do it, Larry, but I am a tough old far+ If you can get both hands on it, maybe. If you can't, and can only use one hand as in my case, I doubt it. The oil filter canister is too slippery, or I can only get at it from an odd angle my reaching under my exhaust manifold. Furthermore, there is a difference in the hardness of the rubber gasket on a Mobil 1 filter compared with other brands. In respect to its' compressibility/ elasticity. The Mobil 1 filter gasket is a very HARD rubber, in comparison with *other brands.* If you can get 3/4 of a turn out of it after contact with the engine block, without ripping the canister apart, you're performing Magic. Lg > "Lawrence Glickman" <Lawrence_Glickman@comcast.net> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > have > happened but must be a very rare event. I have heard tell of Frams bursting; usually involves people running heavy-weight oils and not letting the vehicle warm up before hitting high RPMs. Most of the stories involve watercooled 4-cyl. VWs for some reason, possibly because they do tend to develop fairly high oil pressures when cold, and are also popular for autocrossing and amateur road racing. I don't have any personal experience with this happening; but neither do I feel particularly motivated to take my chances. nate Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel Well, burdening the oil change with $20 for a whole-car repair manual and $8 for an irrelevant product isn't really fair, don't you think? Still, with tax that leaves a $40 oil change. You bought one of the more spendy synthetics and filters; I typically would put in Shell Rotella T 5W40 at $13 a gallon and a Purolator PureOne at five or six bucks and call that a more than decent synthetic oil change at $20. Of course, none of my cars require 5W20, which seems to be a newish product with a limited selection and therefore perhaps costs more. As for the lube'n'leave places, I'm sure some of them are just fine, depending a lot on the hiring and training and QA standards of the local franchise manager. Me, I tote it up this way... "Top-drawer name-brand synthetic oil change at off-sale prices: $40. Good synthetic oil change with well-worked angles: $20. Driving away with confidence that the mechanic put the cork back in the bottom and tightened it properly, put enough oil in the top, and hand tightened filter 1/2 to 1 turn after base contact and then checked for leaks rather than either romping on it with a strap wrench or forgetting to tighten it at all: priceless!" > I don't intend to change the oil until next SPRING > after I do this ! Having winterized the cars, I wouldn't change my oil until spring anyway, unless for some reason I did a lot of driving and it got real dirty. Brrr! Anyway, if you have a newish and clean running engine, you should be able to pull an extended change interval out of good synthetic and a quality filter... Cheers, --Joe >Well, burdening the oil change with $20 for a whole-car repair manual >and $8 for an irrelevant product isn't really fair, don't you think? I agree about the repair manual on CD, but not the fuel injector/system cleaner. IIRC it has been suggest HERE in the n/g that using fuel system cleaner twice a year is -not- overdoing things. And I didn't see anybody challenge that. So this is 6 months from the last time I added this...that is, *every-other oil change.* >Still, with tax that leaves a $40 oil change. You bought one of the >more spendy synthetics and filters; I typically would put in Shell >Rotella T 5W40 at $13 a gallon and a Purolator PureOne at five or six >bucks and call that a more than decent synthetic oil change at $20. >Of course, none of my cars require 5W20, which seems to be a newish >product with a limited selection and therefore perhaps costs more. Outside of the Valvoline 5W-20 which is beginning to show up regularly on store shelves, this Mobil 1 equivalent is the first time I've seen this. I wish I could send you a digital photo of the *oil shelves* at this Pepboys. They should have a menu so you can find what you are looking for in a hurry. There are 20 different oils up there on the shelves. >As for the lube'n'leave places, I'm sure some of them are just fine, >depending a lot on the hiring and training and QA standards of the >local franchise manager. You're kidding! They just dump Penzoil dino into the block, put on a cheap-a.s oil filter, and say "$26.99 Please" > Me, I tote it up this way... > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >leaks rather than either romping on it with a strap wrench or >forgetting to tighten it at all: priceless!" You have more confidence in these pit jockies than I do. >> I don't intend to change the oil until next SPRING >> after I do this ! [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >you should be able to pull an extended change interval out of good >synthetic and a quality filter... What I bought, because like you say: "BRRR!" >Cheers, >--Joe Cheers, Lg > >Well, burdening the oil change with $20 for a whole-car repair manual > >and $8 for an irrelevant product isn't really fair, don't you think? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > And I didn't see anybody challenge that. So this is 6 months from the > last time I added this...that is, *every-other oil change.* I think the implication was that you should use a GOOD FI cleaner like Chevron Techron. I know Pat Goss is always hawking BG products, but I have never tried the 44K. Speaking of which, does anyone have any personal experience with Pat Goss? his shop is like 2 miles from my house, and I've about given up with the local Porsche specialist which is far less convenient to me. nate > >Well, burdening the oil change with $20 for a whole-car repair manual > >and $8 for an irrelevant product isn't really fair, don't you think? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > And I didn't see anybody challenge that. So this is 6 months from the > last time I added this...that is, *every-other oil change.* Almost forgot... my standard practice is to use the FI cleaner *before* I do an oil change, just on the off chance that it will loosen a lot of crap that might possibly work its way past the rings and into the oil. A slim chance, admittedly, but it's just my habit. nate >> >Well, burdening the oil change with $20 for a whole-car repair manual >> >and $8 for an irrelevant product isn't really fair, don't you think? [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > >nate I was just thinking...( "danger Will Robinson!" )...that I rarely put in a full tank of gas. Maybe have 1/4 in now, so I could add just 1/4 of the FI cleaner bottle. Says on the bottle works with "up to" 21 gallons. Doesn't say what the minimum amount of fuel you can use with it is. Funny, yeah? Lg "Lawrence Glickman" <Lawrence_Glickman@comcast.net> wrote in message > I was just thinking...( "danger Will Robinson!" )...that I rarely put > in a full tank of gas. Maybe have 1/4 in now, so I could add just 1/4 [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Lg The use of a good FI cleaner once or twice a year doesnt hurt anything. If it doubles as a fuel conditioner (water dispersant, et) so much the better. I still use dino oil, and will continue to do so, just like I continue to change ever 3000 miles. You definitely dont have to use a Mobil 1 filter with Mobil 1 lubricant. Not at all. I use Wix right now, but have used Fram in the past with never a problem. (I know, I know....;>) When I lived in Norway, I used dino oil in my Buick (which was running fine as it neared 200,000 miles), and synthetic in my Passat (because that was what was specified by VW). The dino worked fine. The synthetic 'seeped' at the gaskets a little bit from day one on the new Passat. Luckily, it wasnt enough to throw me into EU noncompliance. My cars always turned over easily and started with no problem. Temperature is probably not as extreme there as what you are describing. It CAN get to -40 or so on occasion, but usually is freezing or somewhat below during winter. > I agree about the repair manual on CD, but not the fuel > injector/system cleaner. Ah, but if you choose to put a particular product into a different system at the opposite end of the car, and it happens that you time this mnemonically with your oil change, does that make it part of the oil change? My point is that the price of a "DIY synthetic oil change," per the subject line, and "the total cost of everything I did to my car this weekend" are two different things (even though the latter is what you feel in the wallet). Or if you insist on pairing them in the accounting, be sure to add that same $8 to the cost of any oil change, be it synthetic or dinosaur, DIY or hired-out. That way you aren't making the DIY option look artificially bad. I'm not from the Fair Accounting Standards Board and don't even play one on TV, but I think that out of your $71 sacrifice to the gods of internal combustion, the oil change represents only a much more reasonable $40. Cheers, --Joe > YEOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > Lg Half of that list isn't an oil change. If the cost of synthetic is too high for your budget just switch back to whatever you were using before. Problem solved. >> YEOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >> [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] >high for your budget just switch back to whatever you were using >before. Problem solved. I decided to give up eating to pay for this. I think it is more important to have good oil in my engine than good blood in my body. It was a tough decision, but I had to draw the line somewhere. Lg > >> YEOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > >> [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > > Lg OK, then this wasn't a serious question. |
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