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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / December 2005Command Start Problem - Help!!
I bought a 95 grand prix a few months ago and only recently started trying out the remote start. It had been previously installed so I have no idea what all went into it other than the fact that it's Command Start brand. I also have no idea if it ever worked in the first place. The key for the ignition has a resistor pellet in it, and I've heard that it would then require a bypass to work, but I'm not sure if one had been installed or how to find out. Anyway, when I try to start the car from the remote, all that I get is a continuous clicking from the second starter relay until I stop pressing the button. Does anyone know what the problem might be? Could this be related to the possibility of not having the bypass? I know this doesn't give a lot of information, but any help would be greatly appreciated. 407 > I bought a 95 grand prix a few months ago and only recently started > trying out the remote start. It had been previously installed so I have [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > 407 You should have gotten two remotes with the car. Does it happen with both? > > I bought a 95 grand prix a few months ago and only recently started > > trying out the remote start. It had been previously installed so I have [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > You should have gotten two remotes with the car. Does it happen with > both? I was actually only given one command start remote (separate from factory lock/trunk remote) when I bought the car, sot that's all I can test with. I'd assume it's not a problem with the remote since it is activating the relay, but anything past that I'm not sure about. Any other ideas? > > You should have gotten two remotes with the car. Does it happen with > > both? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > activating the relay, but anything past that I'm not sure about. Any > other ideas? Well, since you are able to start the car with the key that pretty much eliminates the starter and relay. I would think that if a bypass were required to use remote start that it would not send any signal to the receiving unit until the bypass was in place. You have I think two places to look for a problem: A bad key on the remote; The receiving unit and the wiring leading from the receiver to the starter system. If everything in the system was working properly, would the relay be clicking away the way that it is now though? Also, can you explain how a bad key on the remote could cause the problem if the relay is getting the signal? 407 > If everything in the system was working properly, would the relay be > clicking away the way that it is now though? Also, can you explain how > a bad key on the remote could cause the problem if the relay is getting > the signal? > > 407 If this is a remote control that allows you to press a button from the warmth of your house and start the engine, then the switch could very well be dirty or a connection could be bad. Either could send an intermittent signal. Have you replaced the battery in the remote? I really appreciate your help in this, please bare with me as I try to get it figured out. As for the battery, I haven't changed it. I assumed it would be fine if the signal was making it to the car and the piezoelectric speaker was making noise, but I will change the battery anyway, I'd hate to waste my time if that's all the problem is. As for dirty connection, I cleaned the remote's connections a few days ago to ensure that all connections were clean, but I'll change the battery and let you know if that makes a difference. And thanks again. 407 > I really appreciate your help in this, please bare with me as I try to > get it figured out. As for the battery, I haven't changed it. I assumed [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > 407 I think changing the battery in the remote would be a waste of time. You are getting a response from the system. Something is not wired up correctly in the remote start system. The relay you are hearing click may be bad or something "downstream" from that is not hooked up or has come loose... > I really appreciate your help in this, please bare with me as I try to > get it figured out. As for the battery, I haven't changed it. I assumed [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > 407 Good luck and post the results. It's hard to come up with a correct guess by the internet. If you really want to get it fixed consider taking it to a good shop. To be perfectly honest, if it were me I would probably have the thing turned off permanently. I would never use it and I would always be worried it would be tripped when I had a hand near a drive belt or similar. > > I bought a 95 grand prix a few months ago and only recently started > > trying out the remote start. It had been previously installed so I have [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > You should have gotten two remotes with the car. Does it happen with > both? In article <1133977225.773914.163540@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>, > I bought a 95 grand prix a few months ago and only recently started > trying out the remote start. It had been previously installed so I have [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > second starter relay until I stop pressing the button. Does anyone know > what the problem might be? These things are more bother than they're worth. > Could this be related to the possibility of > not having the bypass? Yes, possibly. Some GM VATS systems just disable the fuel command to the PCM, others disable the starter relay also. > I know this doesn't give a lot of information, > but any help would be greatly appreciated. If it's the VATS system that is keeping it from starting because of a missing bypass, there should be a VATS related trouble code stored in the PCM, also, if it's because of a missing bypass, you'd merely need to place the ignition key (w/resistor) into the ignition lock cylinder and then try activating the remote. In article <nonelson-1C3EA0.15261907122005@newsclstr02.news.prodigy.com>, > In article > <1133977225.773914.163540@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>, [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > you'd merely need to place the ignition key (w/resistor) into the > ignition lock cylinder and then try activating the remote. I also should have mentioned that there -should- be some sort of safety switch underhood that disables the remote start if the hood is open for service (so guys like me don't get hurt). You may want to verify that that safety switch is intact and working as it should. I installed a new battery in the remote, no change, and tried it with the key in the ignition, no change. However, I had noticed awhile back that there is a switch under the hood. It has two wires run to it, obviously since it's a switch, but one wire just has a loop crimp connector on it and isn't connected to anything. If this is indeed for the remote start unit, should it be connected to +12V? I guess I can probe the other side to see if it's above ground potential at either position of the switch, otherwise I'd assume it should have a voltage applied. Or does anyone know if it could be a factory switch for the car? When facing the front of the car, it's at the top right under the hood, above the driverside front wheelwell. Ok, sorry, I made a mistake, the switch underhood is actually connected. When the hood's closed, the output from the switch is ~3V, open it's ~ 9V. OK, terribly sorry, the switch is actually connected, it outputs ~3V when the hood is open and ~9V when it's closed. > OK, terribly sorry, the switch is actually connected, it outputs ~3V > when the hood is open and ~9V when it's closed. The hood switch contact to ground has high resistance. Remove the switch and push the plunger all the way in. Find the switch contact area and clean it with a small piece of sandpaper. Considering that some sort of relay is clicking when you attempt autostart, this probably won't fix your problem, but it is a possibility. Your three volt reading should have been near zero with the hood open. Look near and around the ignition cylinder wire harnass for Scotchlock connectors (little blue clamshell doodads that are designed to tie into a wire and subsequently fail) that have fallen off or cut through their host wire. Toyota MDT in MO Ok, sorry, I made a mistake, the switch underhood is actually connected. When the hood's closed, the output from the switch is ~3V, open it's ~ 9V. And yes, to a lot of people it would be more trouble than it's worth, but it's hitting about -30 degrees celsius here now and will get colder, so it's quite a nice thing to have. There should be a on off switch for the autocommand. If you turn the switch off and push and release the red button on the auto command it should flash a code count the flashes and that is the code. You can also check the hood pin with the hood lifted it sends a ground signal to the remote so if you temporarily disconnect it and it still doesn,t start its probably not the hood pin. If you get any codes out post them and i,ll try to help you further. There should be a on off switch for the autocommand. If you turn the switch off and push and release the red button on the auto command it should flash a code count the flashes and that is the code. You can also check the hood pin with the hood lifted it sends a ground signal to the remote so if you temporarily disconnect it and it still doesn,t start its probably not the hood pin. If you get any codes out post them and i,ll try to help you further. Well in an attempt to check the code flashing, I had to remove the panel from under the steering wheel and I realized my stupidity. I hadn't checked the fuses. Upon inspection, one of the 30A fuses was blown. I changed it and everything seems to work great. Sorry to send everyone on a wild goose chase, I appreciate all the suggestions. 407 |
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