Brass punch, if used, to unscrewwpump module retainer ring. Well vented work
area, do not drop a trouble lite and break the bulb, blow out gas fumes fom
tank as you work.

happy new yerar old wolf, i,m really wondering which type of fuel pump
sits atop the tank, (i assume you mean inside the tank and you gain
access through the top) but anyhoo---as long as you don't do anything
stupid like smoke a cigarette (left or right-handed types), or go under
there at dusk with the old fashioned type drop-light,(can you beleive
they actually still make those things?) you will be o.k.  i personally
prefer to do this in a well ventilated area and i strongly recommend
that you do too. are you cleaning the tank because of rust? if so, you
should put some marbles or stainless steel ball bearings or something
of that nature in the tank along with some denatured alcohol
(availiable at your local hardware store) and shake that up in the tank
real good. the denatured will also evaporate out of the tank quite
rapidly when you are finished and will displace any water that may be
present. note: after purchasing denatured alcohol you may be followed
home by a couple of guys with sunglasses, goatees, ball caps and one
earring, but don't sweat 'em it's more than likely your local drug task
force looking to make a big meth bust as you just purchased a large
amount of one of it's key ingredients.  so make sure you aren't
drinkin' a cold beer..............

Ground yourself and the tank at all times.
To be really safe, dump in about 2 pounds of dry ice and wait
about 10 minutes.

I'd definitely wear safety goggles, when you remove the tank, drain it and
let it sit for a while, maybe put a fan on it to vent the fumes.  Once it's
dry and the fumes have dissapated, you're explosion proof.  Make sure you
drain the fuel into an approved gas can.  Why are you cleaning the tank?  Is
there something in it that you're trying to get out?

How aggressive do you plan to be in cleaning it?

The last time I did a fuel tank, the first thing I did after draining it
and removing it from the car was fill it with soapy water and flush like
crazy. When  you dry the water out it STILL will have enough gas fumes
to be something of a risk, but much less. To clean the interior, I threw
about two jar-fulls of old nuts and bolts in it, added some water, hung
it from a tree limb and shook it. I rotated it so that each surface was
on the "bottom" for a while to get the action of the nuts and bolts.
Then I dumped all the hardware out, flushed out the rust residue with
water, and then blew the OUTLET from my shop-vac through the tank (into
the filler neck, and out the hole where the pickup/sending unit went)
for about an hour to dry out the last of the water (DO NOT suck air out
of the tank with a shop vac, as this air will pass through the vac's
motor and if it has gasoline vapors in the right concentration....).

That tank is still on my '69, never had another problem with it.

And yes, while removing it using caution against static (a strap, work
on a humid day, etc.) is a good idea.