Loosened lines out of MC.Shouldnt brake fluid shoot out like crazy?

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pinfun - 19 Jan 2006 23:36 GMT

I was having trouble bleeding the rear brakes but nothing came out and
just a small dribble
on one side with the bleeder screws completly removed.I loosened the
lines coming out of
the master cylinder and started it up and pushed the pedal with some
fluid coming out.

1 Shouldnt the brake fluid come spraying out like crazy?( when
pushing pedal?)
2.Does this show seal wear or plugged up master cylinder

thank you for the help1

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sdlomi2 - 20 Jan 2006 00:18 GMT

>I was having trouble bleeding the rear brakes but nothing came out and
> just a small dribble
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> thank you for the help1

Close all openings/lines. Pump pedal several times and HOLD IT FIRMLY.
Start with farthest wheel cylinder from the mc--as the lines run. Crack a
bleeder screw, & some air/fluid will exit. Tighten screw. Pump again &
HOLD FIRM. Crack screw again, & continue until nothing but fluid comes out.
Proceed working with next farthest wc & continue until closest wc has been
bled. Keep mc topped off as you work along.
**Since you've opened a line @ the mc, you must bleed it *FIRST*. Do
it similarly to above, except crack the fluid line to bleed the mc while the
pedal has been pumped & is being held tight.
HTH, s

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pinfun - 20 Jan 2006 04:10 GMT

This is not a air problem.I think the MC isnt pushing fluid/air
anything through!If the lines are left open,I should be able to pump
fluid out.

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Brian - 23 Jan 2006 13:15 GMT

This is SO not the best way to bleed brakes...

Steady, slow pumping will not generate air in the lines from cavitation,
which the "press firmly and crack the fitting" method will do. But
absolutely right, you do need to make sure that the master cylinder is bled
first.

Brian

> Close all openings/lines. Pump pedal several times and HOLD IT FIRMLY.
> Start with farthest wheel cylinder from the mc--as the lines run. Crack a
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> the pedal has been pumped & is being held tight.
> HTH, s

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Steve - 23 Jan 2006 16:18 GMT

> Steady, slow pumping will not generate air in the lines from cavitation,
> which the "press firmly and crack the fitting" method will do.

The above is nonsense. The whole idea of maintining positive pressure
while cracking the bleeder open is to AVOID allowing air into the brake
lines (you can't "generate" air by cavitation). "Slow steady pumping"
will allow air to be repeatedly drawn back in through the bleeder,
unless you have a helper. The very best way to bleed brakes other than a
pressure-bleeder tool is to have two people: #1 working the pedal and #2
working the bleeder.

#1 puts foot on pedal
#2 opens bleeder
#1 tells #2 when pedal reaches bottom of travel
#2 closes bleeder
#1 releases pedal forcing the MC to draw fluid in from its reservoir,
not back through the bleeder.

Repeat until fluid runs clear, then move to next wheel. Always keep the
reservoir filled during this process.

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John S. - 23 Jan 2006 13:43 GMT

> I was having trouble bleeding the rear brakes but nothing came out and
> just a small dribble
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> thank you for the help1

Be wary of pumping your brakes to bleed the system. If there is
corrosion at the far end of the master cylinder that could damage the
seals on the piston.

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