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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / February 2006

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How Do I Determine if Coolant is in Engine Oil?

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KC - 30 Jan 2006 20:19 GMT
I think coolant is contaminating my van's engine oil.

The oil on the dipstick looks black as it should, the oil on the bottom
of the filler cap was more brown than black, but not milky. The engine
slowly loses coolant over a period of 30 - 45 days. The temp gauge
never climbs, but I know the coolant level has dropped because the
heater starts blowing cold air when the engine as at idle. You only get
warm air if the car is being driven. I never see any leaks, or find any
coolant on the ground. The cooling system was pressure tested. The
mechanic said it held the pressure fine. The vehicle is a 1998 Ford
Windstar with the 3.8L engine, 140,000 miles.

My questions:

1. Is the oil on the bottom of the filler cap telling me the coolant is
in the oil?

2. Would I have to send an oil sample to be analyzed to be absolutely
sure the oil is getting contaminated?

3, If the mechanic determines that coolant has been contaminating the
engine oil for the past few months, would I be tossing money away to
get the van fixed due to damage the coolant may have done to the
engine?

Thanks in advance for any advice
Al Bundy - 30 Jan 2006 23:57 GMT
> I think coolant is contaminating my van's engine oil.
>
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice

You don't say how much coolant you are losing, but presumably it's a
lot. It doesn't sound like you have coolant in the oil because of the
color and amount. It could be a head gasket and not show in the oil,
but the pressure test should have revealed that. You say there are no
leaks. So everybody is suspect here. Start over.
Maybe you have a leak in the coolant reservoir that would not show up
the pressure test at the radiator, but the rest of the system would
hold water.  Keep looking for leaks and maybe take it somewhere else. A
water pump could leak a tiny bit and not be noticed and in some cases
could pass a static pressure test. Check that extra closely.
John S. - 31 Jan 2006 01:42 GMT
> > I think coolant is contaminating my van's engine oil.
> >
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
> water pump could leak a tiny bit and not be noticed and in some cases
> could pass a static pressure test. Check that extra closely.

Assuming the radiator hoses are ok and you are not getting an unusual
fogging of thge interior windows I would check the following:

1. The reservoir is a very good place to start.  I had one develop
microscopic cracks that would open up only when the engine was good and
hot, otherwise they were invisible and closed.

2.  Check closely around the thermostat and hose connections for any
sign of dried coolant.

3.  If the radiator has a plastic tank, check the return pipe for
cracks.

4.  Check all heater and bypass hoses and connectors for leaks.  Some
of them will be hard to see completely, but persist.

5.  Check the pipes on the heater core for cracking.  They are likely
made of plastic these days.
Steve - 31 Jan 2006 15:57 GMT
>>I think coolant is contaminating my van's engine oil.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
> water pump could leak a tiny bit and not be noticed and in some cases
> could pass a static pressure test. Check that extra closely.

Don't forget that a weak radiator pressure cap can cause a slow loss of
coolant with no visible trace. The coolant is lost as vapor instead of
liquid because the cap doesn't hold enough pressure to prevent it from
slowly boiling away.
KC - 31 Jan 2006 16:38 GMT
Thanks everyone. I'll try the easy stuff such as radiator cap and a
closer inspection of the some of the suggested areas.

I was hoping that the leak would become worse and therefore visually
obvious after a couple of months, but no such luck.  The engine is
prone to head gasket failures, so that is why I asked the question
about coolant in the oil, since I have yet to find any external
leak(s). If I still come up blank, I will give the local repair shop
that specializes in radiators a crack at it.

Thanks again for the ideas.
Lawrence Glickman - 31 Jan 2006 18:39 GMT
>Thanks everyone. I'll try the easy stuff such as radiator cap and a
>closer inspection of the some of the suggested areas.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
>Thanks again for the ideas.

There is a trick, but as always, it is going to cost you money.

I think there is ultraviolet die you can put in your antifreeze.
Then, at some later time, in the dark, you use an ultraviolet light to
find the leak.  Anywhere there was antifreeze with dye in it, will
glow under the ultraviolet light.

How much?  One thing...you can now buy an ultraviolet LED light.  So
say, $30 to $40 for that.

The dye?  No idea.  Check auto store or the WWW.

Lg
Scott Dorsey - 31 Jan 2006 18:53 GMT
>I think there is ultraviolet die you can put in your antifreeze.
>Then, at some later time, in the dark, you use an ultraviolet light to
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
>The dye?  No idea.  Check auto store or the WWW.

The antifreeze already has a fluorescent dye in it.  That's why it's
that bizarre day-glo green color.  Any handheld UV light will make
leaks show up.

The problem, though, is that as soon as water gets into the oil, it boils
right off.  Same happens to the glycol.  And when it boils, it will take
a lot of the dye with it.  You have to have a pretty major leak into the
oil for any to show up.

I urge the original poster just not to worry about it.  Keep all fluids
topped up.  Either the problem will get worse or it won't.
--scott

Signature

"C'est un Nagra.  C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

KC - 02 Feb 2006 23:13 GMT
A local radiator shop said they use the dye method to locate leaks, so
I may let them take a crack at it because the price is reasonable -
under $15. If that doesn't turn up a leak then they start checking for
an internal leak.

Our regular mechanic put some leak sealer in the cooling system, so I
will see what that does. He had mentioned that option, but I forgot to
tell him not to use it. I'd rather figure out the problem rather than
use a band-aid approach like a sealer. Even if it works, how much can I
trust it to hold.
Don Bruder - 31 Jan 2006 01:55 GMT
> I think coolant is contaminating my van's engine oil.
>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> 1. Is the oil on the bottom of the filler cap telling me the coolant is
> in the oil?

It's not telling you that the *COOLANT* is in the oil, but that *SOME
WATER* is. From the description, sounds like typical condensation (As in
"basically normal") from short runs.  

> 2. Would I have to send an oil sample to be analyzed to be absolutely
> sure the oil is getting contaminated?

To be absolutely certain, yes. To get a quick idea, just taste it. Yeah,
yeah, I know... *GAG!*... Not really. We're not talking "drink a cup or
two" - A drop or two on the tongue is all it takes for this "test", and
at that kind of quantity, the worst possible ill effect is a semi-nasty
taste in your mouth for a few minutes after if you don't have a soda
handy to "swish-and-spit". If your oil tastes sweet, then you've almost
certainly got coolant getting into it somehow, and you need to start
trying to pin down the leak - Head gasket would be my first guess in
that case. If it isn't sweet, then either you've got a dead tongue, or
the leak is so small as to be irrelevant.

> 3, If the mechanic determines that coolant has been contaminating the
> engine oil for the past few months, would I be tossing money away to
> get the van fixed due to damage the coolant may have done to the
> engine?

Impossible to say without knowing the extent of (if any) damage. Part of
it is going to depend on how much has been getting in, and for how long.
Based on your description, it sounds like the amount is "very little, if
any".

FYI: I had a similar situation with my Mazda a while back - It'd "bleed
out" over the course of about 3-6 weeks, with no other symptoms to be
seen other than lack of heat when it dropped down to about 3/4 full.
Like yours, a quick pressure check showed diddly. In the end, it turned
out to be a hairline crack in the top tank (plastic... grumble) of the
radiator, located between the grille and the tank, so it couldn't be
spotted during an in-situ visual inspection. Once it got enough worse to
become apparent, it turned into an easy to spot "oozing", and swapping
in a new (well, OK, new-from-the-junkyard) radiator cured things.

Signature

Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist,
or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow"
somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my
ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info

Ken Hilson - 31 Jan 2006 06:50 GMT
my son had a 97 mustang with the 3.8. We never saw a leak  and the reservoir
stayed ok but eventually the motor overheated and was destroyed. The ford
dealer replaced the motor for free because the front cover had leaked and
Ford had an extended warranty for that defect.
> I think coolant is contaminating my van's engine oil.
>
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice
 
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