it seems there's been a slight problem with getting power to get my car
started in the morning.
Tuesday Morning I noticed I left the driver's door slightly open all
night leaving the light on, along with the cigarrette plug for the cell
phone charger insert and unfortunately, I couldn't get enough power to
turn the engine on to start.
I didn't really need to go anywhere with my car so I turned everything
off . . . . though at the time I didn't think about the cell phone
charger (because I didn't have my phone connected to it)
Wednesday Morning I get a jump start from my neighbor and let the car
run for awhile, . . . thinking I had plenty of juice still.
Thursday morning (yesterday morning) battery is too dead to get the
engine to start again and consider the cigarette lighter plug could be
the reason
. . so I call triple AAA and the fellow puts his little quick gadget
to test and tells me the battery is okay just low charged,
but I need to take it to a service center to have it recharged because
the "surface charge" of just running the car isn't sufficient to charge
it on its own.
I wonder though if I were to drive it long enough for hours without
stopping it, if that's really true, especially if I were to drive a
good 120 miles with less than 1 stop on the freeway.
So like the convenient cheap a.s that I am,
I went to the nearest battery testing place which is
Bridgestone/Firestone service center (after all they got good deals on
general service like oil changes and what-not with their credit card
package)
nevermind Firestone tire manufacturers had a lawsuit and a recall
awhile back in 2001 because of faulty tires
'http://www.firestone-tire-recall.com/pages/overview.html'
(http://www.firestone-tire-recall.com/pages/overview.html)
afterall what does the service repair department have to do with the
tire manufacturer's 5 years ago?''
(http://www.firestone-tire-recall.com/pages/overview.html)
Anyways, Firestone down the road charges me $19.99 to tell me
the alternator needs replaced . . . "The alternator drains the battery
too fast"
- "LOW OUTPUT & OPEN DIODES"
- along with the battery (BTW it's a 6 year battery, that's 5 years old
. . which should be still under warranty, though I didn't buy the
battery nor have a receipt on it)
NEEDLESS to say . . . I have little trust in these places. . .
a new alternator (price $252.50) + labor ($56.00) is $308.50 from THEM
. .
there's better bargains elsewhere . . . I'm sure of it.
Advice about getting the best deal on an alternator would be much
appreciated. If memory service NAPA may still sell remanufactured
alternators for a lot less than $252.50.
Advice about how much longer I can run my car without replacing the
alternator would be needed, considering yesterday after I got the
triple A jump and let the car run for awhile, driving it for awhile, I
HAD NO PROBLEM starting and stopping and driving the car SEVERAL TIMES
yesterday. So is there a chance this is an auto repair scam or not?

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dwitejdriver
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Mike Romain - 03 Feb 2006 20:38 GMT
Yes, there is a really good chance they read things wrong. The
alternator will not be running stable when it is still trying to get a
deep charge into that battery. Once the battery is fully charged, then
the test may be valid.
If you put a multimeter (cheap ones are ok) on the battery terminals
when it is running, you can get a good idea of the state of things. It
should read somewhere around 13.8 to 14.5 volts. I would do this before
spending money...
Our local auto parts stores sell alternator rebuild kits also. The kits
are in the $20.00 range for most of them. There are throw away
alternators out there too.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> it seems there's been a slight problem with getting power to get my car
> started in the morning.
[quoted text clipped - 77 lines]
>
> http://www.automotiveforums.com
William R. Watt - 03 Feb 2006 21:10 GMT
I paid $75 for an alternator from a wrecker a few years ago. It's still
running fine. An auto electronics shop will rebuild my old one for less
than that if I ever need it.
sdlomi2 - 03 Feb 2006 22:14 GMT
> it seems there's been a slight problem with getting power to get my car
> started in the morning.
[quoted text clipped - 69 lines]
> HAD NO PROBLEM starting and stopping and driving the car SEVERAL TIMES
> yesterday. So is there a chance this is an auto repair scam or not?
I'd forget about scam & dwell on the important answer/news : with your
description of events, there's a good chance both your alternator and
battery are ok for a while yet. No need to change the baby's dry diaper
just because it hasn't been wet for 4 hours! s
HLS@nospam.nix - 03 Feb 2006 23:04 GMT
> it seems there's been a slight problem with getting power to get my car
> started in the morning.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> phone charger insert and unfortunately, I couldn't get enough power to
> turn the engine on to start.
The light was what deteriorated your battery, not the cell phone.
There are a number of things you need to keep in mind:
(1) A low battery does not charge immediately when you get the car started.
It needs
to charge over a longer road trip, or be brought to full charge with a
charger.
(2) Your cables and battery terminals must be cleaned regularly... Dirty
terminals equals
walking to work. Battery cables have TWO ends.
(3) Check your battery for electrolyte (water) level. Even most 'sealed'
batteries can be
topped up with distilled water or electrolyte if needed.
(4) If you have V-belts, they can become polished and slip. Be sure the
belts are good
and tensioned properly. Cogged serpentine belts are usually immune to this,
but the
tensioner must be working properly.
(5) Take the battery test with a grain of salt. Crappo batteries are often
deemed good
by crappo tests.
(6) Some cars have more alternator problems than others. GM is particularly
shitteaux.
Some remanufactured alternators are even more shitteaux than the
manufacturer ever
intended.
(7) A light which is burning without your knowledge can make you question
all logic.
Trunk lights, map compartment lights, courtesy lights, and a host of other
parasitic
current demands can make you question your sanity and lose your religion.
dwitejdriver - 04 Feb 2006 06:11 GMT
Thank you all for your advice:
> > it seems there's been a slight problem with getting power to get my
> car
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> The light was what deteriorated your battery, not the cell phone.
> There are a number of things you need to keep in mind:
> (1) A low battery does not charge immediately when you get the car
> started.
> It needs
> to charge over a longer road trip, or be brought to full charge with a
> charger.}
How long of a road trip would it take for a 12 volt battery brought to
life by a jump start to be fully charged?
Does driving fast or slow make a difference?
or rather is it high RPM's that make the difference?
Let's assume standard clear freeway driving of 65 to 70 mph, how long
would it take for it to get full charge in that scenario?
[quoteYour cables and battery terminals must be cleaned regularly... Dirty
terminals equals
walking to work. Battery cables have TWO ends.
A high school shop instructor a long time ago recommended scrubbing good
with a copper brush with baking soda and then putting petroleum jelly on
them with a little baking soda left on to neutralize any corrosive acid .
. those felt terminals help too, So I've been told . . .
the trippleA dude was all "yuck", because I had some old petroleum jelly
& baking soda goo left on since 2002, which I had to wipe off . . . . ,
I would think any corrosion was a result of the previous owner, even
though I am guilty as charged these were "dirty" in terms of not exactly
being "bare mineral metal"
(3) Check your battery for electrolyte (water) level. Even most
'sealed'
batteries can be topped up with distilled water or electrolyte if
needed.
(4) If you have V-belts, they can become polished and slip. Be sure
the
belts are good
and tensioned properly. Cogged serpentine belts are usually immune to
this,
but the
tensioner must be working properly.
(5) Take the battery test with a grain of salt. Crappo batteries are
often
deemed good
by crappo tests.
^ & crappo testers too one would think . . .
I hate shady mechanics. There almost as bad as shady Doctors. A person
with good trustworthy advice about transportation efficiency is best
friend . . .
A person without such trust is my worst enemy.
(6) Some cars have more alternator problems than others. GM is
particularly
shitteaux.
Some remanufactured alternators are even more shitteaux than the
manufacturer ever
intended.
My rig is not GM
its a Subaru
(7) A light which is burning without your knowledge can make you
question all logic.
Trunk lights, map compartment lights, courtesy lights, and a host of
other
parasitic
current demands can make you question your sanity and lose your
religion.
You got a point there.
I somehow wonder if someone slim jimmed my car and it left in on, there's
been a rash of car break in's in my neighborhood according to neighbors
. . but then again I've been known to leave the door slightly open from
the seatbelt's metal end getting stuck in the doorway . . . ., especially
when its still day light ('cause the door slightly open releases a switch
that turns the internal light on)
This mistake is especially likely when I'm tired and unalert, like I was
monday late afternoon, with enough daylight that I didn't notice it) 16
or 17 hours with the light on like that and nothing missing like my
stereo, gives me a good idea that it was my fatigue alone and hopefully
not sanity.

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dwitejdriver - 04 Feb 2006 23:33 GMT
Today about 48 hours after a last shut all the power off to my car I
started the engine and took it for a 10 mile spin down the expressway
and my car ran good.
There was no idiot light with the little red battery icon going on, nor
was it on after I got the jump from a neighbor and the triple A dude
last week.
I stopped the car after 10 miles did some shopping for 20 minutes,
drove another 5 miles bought a little cheap Chinese volt/ohm meter
battery tester for $10 and the little red & green felt washers for
$0.49 . . . drove about another 1/2 of a mile down the road to visit
some friends for 45 minutes then tested the battery and alternator
12 volts with engine ON
and
at least 14 volts with engine ON!
According to the instructions on the meter, this should mean GOOD
alternator and GOOD battery!!!! NO further charging is needed by some
other device!!!
Like someone else said:
> If you put a multimeter (cheap ones are ok) on the battery terminals
> when it is running, you can get a good idea of the state of things. It
> should read somewhere around 13.8 to 14.5 volts. I would do this
> before
> spending money...
SO I can't help but thinking WTF? is it with the Firestone people
telling me the alternator is a POS?
Ever the cynic I am . . .

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Lawrence Glickman - 04 Feb 2006 23:50 GMT
>Today about 48 hours after a last shut all the power off to my car I
>started the engine and took it for a 10 mile spin down the expressway
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
>
>Ever the cynic I am . . .
I can't trust anyone who has a motive to take more of my money than
they need to. That is why I do all the work I can by and for myself.
Believe 1/2 of what you see, and none of what you hear.
Do your own testing. Come to your own conclusions.
Lg
dwitejdriver - 05 Feb 2006 01:40 GMT
Lawrence Glickman Wrote:
> .
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Lg
A little advice from friends, peer review, and consumer advocacy with
the internet never hurts too. Thank you all.

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