How to pull the brake rotors off a 97 Honda Accord?

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B.B. - 03 Apr 2006 05:26 GMT

During the timing belt adventure I noted my front left rotor has some
respectable grooves in it. At 128k miles I figure I've gotten enough
life out of them and have decided to replace the pair, along with new
shoes and pads.
Anyway, the rotors are bolted to the back side of the hubs. I've
pulled a half shaft (passenger side) before on this car, and even after
popping the shaft out of the hub the assembly didn't fall off or shift.
So, what was holding it together? The rotor's bolts?
Also, go ahead and do wheel bearings while I'm there, or let 'em
alone if they're not rough or noisy?

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B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net

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Alan - 03 Apr 2006 05:58 GMT

> During the timing belt adventure I noted my front left rotor has some
> respectable grooves in it. At 128k miles I figure I've gotten enough
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> Also, go ahead and do wheel bearings while I'm there, or let 'em
> alone if they're not rough or noisy?

The ball joints and the tie rods must have kept the hub from moving.

I wouldn't worry about the bearings.

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Burt - 04 Apr 2006 12:50 GMT

> The ball joints and the tie rods must have kept the hub from moving.

Actually, in order to remove the half-shaft the ball joints and the tie rods
has to come loose. It only requires 8-bolts and the knuckle assembly will
crumble. The hub unit and the bearing are pretty much stuck together
like super glue.

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Burt - 04 Apr 2006 12:50 GMT

>During the timing belt adventure I noted my front left rotor has some
> respectable grooves in it. At 128k miles I figure I've gotten enough
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> popping the shaft out of the hub the assembly didn't fall off or shift.
> So, what was holding it together? The rotor's bolts?

A Honda of these generations require that you remove the whole knuckle
and then unbolt the brake disk (rotor.) From the looks of it, the 4 bolts
are pretty tight, probably worth 200-ft lbs each to break loose. You might
require a large vise grips or three large guys or gals to hold knuckle then
unbolt them. A little luck and strategy might help because you're dealing with
17-high tension/stress bolts.

I almost had to deal with this mess when I needed to replace a stud that
broke on the hub. Bad engineering from Honda. I've heard of places that
turn rotors in-car. This is an easy way out.

> Also, go ahead and do wheel bearings while I'm there, or let 'em
> alone if they're not rough or noisy?

You need a 2-ton press. These things are precision fit and last long.

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B.B. - 05 Apr 2006 17:19 GMT

>>During the timing belt adventure I noted my front left rotor has some
>> respectable grooves in it. At 128k miles I figure I've gotten enough
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>broke on the hub. Bad engineering from Honda. I've heard of places that
>turn rotors in-car. This is an easy way out.

I haven't measured, but the grooves seem deep enough that turning
wouldn't save the driver side rotor. Oddly, the passenger side is just
hunky-dory. Rather than mess with turning it and then trying to balance
the pair, I'll just change the rotors out with new ones.
My strategy is to wait for payday and buy the parts, pull the front
wheels, wedge the brake pedal down, pop loose the spindle nuts, pop
loose the rotor bolts, take the knuckle off, ????, put everything back
together.
So after getting out the rotor bolts, and pulling the knuckle off,
then what? Are there some more bolts hiding on the back side, or will I
just need to pry the hub loose? Any snap rings tucked anywhere?

>> Also, go ahead and do wheel bearings while I'm there, or let 'em
>> alone if they're not rough or noisy?
>
>You need a 2-ton press. These things are precision fit and last long.

Cool, I can take all of the parts to work on my bike and press the
bearings there.

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B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net

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Burt - 06 Apr 2006 08:48 GMT

> I haven't measured, but the grooves seem deep enough that turning
> wouldn't save the driver side rotor. Oddly, the passenger side is just
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> then what? Are there some more bolts hiding on the back side, or will I
> just need to pry the hub loose? Any snap rings tucked anywhere?

Okay, the correcto order goes like this:

pop loose the spindle nut (80 lb-ft)

pop loose the caliper mounting bolts (80 lb-ft)

pop loose the rotor bolts (40 lb-ft)

pop loose three or two ball joints, your choice. (40 lb-ft)(33 lb-ft)

pop loose more bolts

take the knuckle off

pop loose the bolts hiding on the back side of the knuckle (33 lb-ft)

pop new rotor in and assemble, take care to observe the lb-ft
or they'll come loose. The number I gave you are basic to these types
of system.

> >> Also, go ahead and do wheel bearings while I'm there, or let 'em
> >> alone if they're not rough or noisy?
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Cool, I can take all of the parts to work on my bike and press the
> bearings there.

Good idea, save on gas and parts.

Related images below are for the 97 Accord.

http://www.slhondaparts.com/images/PCI/13SV40/011/7.jpg

http://www.slhondaparts.com/images/PCI/13SV40/013/1.jpg

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B.B. - 07 Apr 2006 14:45 GMT

[...]

>Okay, the correcto order goes like this:

[...]

Whoo hoo! Thanks a million.

>Related images below are for the 97 Accord.
>
>http://www.slhondaparts.com/images/PCI/13SV40/011/7.jpg
>
>http://www.slhondaparts.com/images/PCI/13SV40/013/1.jpg

Extremely helpful. Thank you very much.

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B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net

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