I have to remove the two bolts that hold the crossover pipe to the
exhaust manifold in order to remove the oil pan to replace the gasket.
The bolts go through the flange and thread into the manifold. There
are no nuts on the end.
The car is a '93 Eldo 4.9 and the pipe has never been removed.
I plan to heat the manifold where the bolts come through, apply PB
Blaster several times over a couple of days, slightly tighten to try
to break it loose, then loosen. Any other technique I might try? I'm
looking to avoid snapping the bolts. If one of the bolts does snap, is
there an easy way such as a "cheater" clamp to replace the bolts to
avoid having to drill out the broken bolt ?
TIA
NS
Marsh Monster - 29 Apr 2006 17:20 GMT
> I have to remove the two bolts that hold the crossover pipe to the
> exhaust manifold in order to remove the oil pan to replace the gasket.
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> TIA
> NS
============
============
Sounds like you have a good understanding of getting the bolts out.
The only thing I would add as a sugestion, would be to "knock the hell"
out of the head of the bolt a couple times before you go giving it a
twist.
The technique you've posted is exactly how I take them out. I stick my
socket and extension on them, then knock the hell out of the extension
a couple times with a 5lb sledge to dislodge the rusted threads a bit.
I don't have the luxuary in the shop of the "soak for a few days"
bit,
but that's only going to help you, not hurt you.
Be sure not to overheat the manifold, where as the bolts themselves
are weakened by the heat and shear off. Other than that, go with your
plan.
as to a repair.........
if you're not up to drilling and tapping, there IS a repair clamp but
the cost
is around $30 to $40 best I remember. I HAVE used them several times
in the past, but I found out over the years that it's just a time/cost
thing,
so now I drill and tap.
The clamps resemble a small c-clamp with pointed contacts instead of
pads.
Call NAPA if it gets to that point.
let us know how it turns out
~:~
Marsh
~:~
Steve W. - 29 Apr 2006 18:15 GMT
> > I have to remove the two bolts that hold the crossover pipe to the
> > exhaust manifold in order to remove the oil pan to replace the gasket.
[quoted text clipped - 44 lines]
> Marsh
> ~:~
If you can get to the other end of the bolts with a wire brush or cut
them off it makes them a bit less likely to break off from the rust
built up on the threads. Usually you get them loose and after a turn or
two the rust jams them and they break. Other than that and what your
already planning, it comes down to luck. If they do break Drill/Tap is
the better and usually easier solution.

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Steve W.
Life is not like a box of chocolates
it's more like a jar of jalapenos-
what you do today could burn your a.s tomorrow!
Daniel - 30 Apr 2006 14:05 GMT
I don't touch bolts like that without a applying a rust penetrant first
and have had good results with Kroil.
http://www.kanolabs.com/
NickySantoro - 30 Apr 2006 18:33 GMT
>I have to remove the two bolts.....
Thanks for the responses. I wire brushed the exposed threads, soaked
them with PB Blaster, then worked them back and forth a bit. Soaked
them again and let it sit overnight. Wire brushed again, soaked again,
worked back and forth until loose then removed. I think it was the
overnight soak that did the trick.
Again, many thanks for the responses.
NS
N8N - 30 Apr 2006 22:11 GMT
> >I have to remove the two bolts.....
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Again, many thanks for the responses.
> NS
Bet you'll use anti-seize when you put it back together! Brass nuts
help prevent future issues as well, and if worse comes to worse you can
burn them off with a torch.
nate
NickySantoro - 01 May 2006 01:26 GMT
>> >I have to remove the two bolts.....
>>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
>nate
You bet I used anti-seize. Cleaned up the threads with the wire wheel
on the bench grinder, too. No place for nuts on this one as the
manifold itself is threaded.
Nate Nagel - 01 May 2006 01:37 GMT
>>>>I have to remove the two bolts.....
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> on the bench grinder, too. No place for nuts on this one as the
> manifold itself is threaded.
ah, I see...
I probably would have done one of two things... either replaced the
bolts with studs, and used the brass nuts, or else taken the bolts to my
local boat store and bought some similar sized bolts in stainless. But
then again, we're not talking about one of my project cars here...
On the 50-ish year old cars I work on, a bolt like that would have been
so "necked" down from corrosion I would have had to replace it anyway,
so the stainless idea isn't as frivolous as it sounds. Besides, it's a
sheer joy to work on a car that's already been taken apart by someone
like me; the bolts practically leap out of their holes as soon as they
see a wrench.
nate

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