Best style stud extractor

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swimdad16 - 07 May 2006 23:39 GMT

OK.... in the ongoing saga of my water pump replacement I found out the
Sears Hardware no longer sells stud extractors (or at least the one close by
to me doesn't sell them).

Searched online and found 3 alternatives.... the old fashioned offset cam,
one that looks like a deep well socket and the ones they advertise on TV
that look like black sockets with a fairly sharp, and aggressive, "blade"
that's suppose to bite into the stud/bolt...

Which one is "best"?

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Mike Romain - 07 May 2006 23:51 GMT

I have normally used a whole mess of good penetrating oil first in
several applications, then if it fits a plumber's pipe wrench. It grabs
harder as you pull harder unlike vise grips that lock.

I have never needed or had much use for the 'fancy' extractors. If the
part is rusty/rotted, they bottom out usually so just skin it thinner.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
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> OK.... in the ongoing saga of my water pump replacement I found out the
> Sears Hardware no longer sells stud extractors (or at least the one close by
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Which one is "best"?

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Peter Griffin - 08 May 2006 11:45 GMT

left handed drill bits...they really work great mac man should have them

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HLS@nospam.nix - 13 May 2006 23:02 GMT

> OK.... in the ongoing saga of my water pump replacement I found out the
> Sears Hardware no longer sells stud extractors (or at least the one close by
> to me doesn't sell them).

I'm sorry to hear about that. There seems to be a lot they dont sell
anymore.

I use a small pipewrench when I have enough of the broken bolt showing that
I can get on it securely. I have used the type where you drill a hole and
thread
in the easyout...if you break one of those in the hole, you have doubled
your
work in trying to get that crap straightened out.

I just saw in a Popular Mechanics magazine a new design of removal tools.
I threw the book away after I read it, but -of course - they were saying
what
a step forward this tool is. Might be worth a look.

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Tim S - 13 May 2006 23:11 GMT

>> OK.... in the ongoing saga of my water pump replacement I found out the
>> Sears Hardware no longer sells stud extractors (or at least the one close
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> what
> a step forward this tool is. Might be worth a look.

Stud extractors, been there, done that, snapped it off in the bolt. Bloody
hell, are those things hard...

I remember seeing, a long time ago in England, an alternative extractor
tool. It was basically a high-speed metal drill bit, but "reversed" - ie it
drilled counter clockwise, providing you had a reversible drill handy.

I think the theory was that the heat from dilling and the anti-clockwise
torque would loosen and unscrew the stud. Never tried one - but does it
ring any bells?

Cheers

Tim (in the UK)

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swimdad16 - 15 May 2006 03:18 GMT

Thanks to everyone for the advice. Just thought I'd close this out by
saying that between Kroil and heat the broken bolt came right out.

I did buy a new pipe wrench per Mike R's recommendation but the bolt came
out really easily with Vise grips (I'm keeping the new pipe wrench though
since I always like new tools and I actually have an alibi this time!)

If anyone searches this in the future, the right answer was DEFINITELY to
remove the timing chain cover. Trying to drill through to remove the bolt
would have cause a lot more damage.

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