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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / May 2006How could lug nuts break on a car?
My brother came home last night, claiming he can't drive his car anymore because two of the lug nuts broke and two are missing (all on the same tire). How could this happen? I've never heard of them breaking before, and two falling off? Is it most likely due to something he did and just isn't fessing up to it? > My brother came home last night, claiming he can't drive his car > anymore because two of the lug nuts broke and two are missing (all on > the same tire). How could this happen? I've never heard of them > breaking before, and two falling off? Is it most likely due to > something he did and just isn't fessing up to it? They break because somebody was jumping on the lug wrench to tighten them.  SignatureTeGGeR® Do you mean the lug NUTS broke, or the lug nuts fell off, or the lug BOLTS (actually, on almost all cars, studs, but never mind that) got sheared off? Lug nuts fall off because somebody dodn't torque them and they gradually unscrew themselves. BTDT and had that done to me. If you're really lucky, all five can go, at which point one corner of the car gets all low and loud and sparky a la "America's Wildest Police Chases." The various means by which the lug bolt could shear off include massive overtorque (e.g., the "get the stand on the handle until it squeaks" school of torque estimation) or simply trying to bust something really tight using the L shaped lug wrench thoughtfully provided by most car makers. Between its shape and the wretched body position involved in changing a tire, it's a marvelous tool for applying axial bending moment as well as torque to the lug bolt, especially for the inexperienced. They're not really made to bend -- they snap before too awfully much of such mistreatment. Never saw anybody actually break a lug nut, though I suppose enough torque (or a hidden flaw) could do the trick. --Joe >My brother came home last night, claiming he can't drive his car >anymore because two of the lug nuts broke and two are missing (all on >the same tire). How could this happen? I've never heard of them >breaking before, and two falling off? Is it most likely due to >something he did and just isn't fessing up to it? Normally this happens when they are overtightened, although it's more likely that the lugs themselves break off. Some guy cranks down on all the lugs as hard as possible, then six months later notices that a bunch of them have sheared right off. --scott Signature"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." lug nuts seize, rust binds them to the stud, the use of air wrenches can "twist" them off, a very common happening. missing lug nuts?? could have worked loose, off. or even stolen. >mho >ve > "drive less - is this trip neseccary" > ? ? ? > My brother came home last night, claiming he can't drive his car > anymore because two of the lug nuts broke and two are missing (all on > the same tire). How could this happen? I've never heard of them > breaking before, and two falling off? Is it most likely due to > something he did and just isn't fessing up to it? Actually, some one left them too loose. Can't say if it was your brother or maybe some thief that was interrupted during an attempt to steel the wheels. Who knows SignatureKevin Mouton Automotive Technology Instructor "If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy" Red Green When you replace the studs and lug nuts make sure you put a small amount of anti-seize compound on the threads to keep this from happening again. Many times the nuts will rust to the stud, and then when a tire shop or whatever goes to remove them with air tools the stud shears off. If it doesn't shear off, then when they go and hammer the lugs back on it basically welds the nut to the stud, and it will break off sooner or later but no later than the next time you try to take it off to change a flat...... Been down that road before myself, not a big or expensive deal to fix. Most auto parts places will have what you need on the shelf to get the car repaired. Chris Anti-seize should not be used on wheel studs, only use a small amount of light oil. > When you replace the studs and lug nuts make sure you put a small > amount of anti-seize compound on the threads to keep this from [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Chris is an anti-seize application recommended for lug nuts? >mho >ve >D r i v e / E a t L e s s - $ a v e M o n e y That's the best way to snap off the new ones that I know of... You are not supposed to lube lug nuts, the studs can stretch and snap. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > When you replace the studs and lug nuts make sure you put a small > amount of anti-seize compound on the threads to keep this from [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Chris > That's the best way to snap off the new ones that I know of... You are > not supposed to lube lug nuts, the studs can stretch and snap. [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >> >> Chris Dang it Mike we have been through this before. Anti sieze is not a lube per say. We have used it for 20 years now with NO ill effects on wheel studs, nuts, or tightening procedures. Ford recomened it 20 years ago and I have not seen a reason not to use it since. We use it on every type of wheel from garden carts to Simi tractor and trailers. Not one lost nut or other problem from using it in all that time. If you have problems it is not from the anti sieze unless your using it completly wrong. (IE slathering it on maby??) I realize some winny engineers say otherwise, but 20 years of industry wide experence says they are wrong. KB SignatureThunder Snake #9 "Protect" your rights or "lose" them. > > That's the best way to snap off the new ones that I know of... You are > > not supposed to lube lug nuts, the studs can stretch and snap. [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > Thunder Snake #9 > "Protect" your rights or "lose" them. And as I probably said before, I live in the rust belt and worked in garages for a lot of years and we were 'always' taught to 'never' use any lube on lug nuts. Anti-seize is considered lubrication when it comes to torque specs! There is a wet and a dry torque. There 'is' a reason for this. It isn't just made up by 'winny' engineers.... Most people use a cross bar tire wrench that has no torque settings. Maybe I am just too big, but I can snap off a dry lug, let alone a lubed up one... Same for head bolts. Some are supposed to be lubed, some aren't. I have seen lots of snapped off well greased ones.... Mike >> > That's the best way to snap off the new ones that I know of... You >> > are not supposed to lube lug nuts, the studs can stretch and snap. [quoted text clipped - 53 lines] > > Mike I also live in the rust belt and since 1980 was told to use anti sieze and have, and every place I have worked at has used it and it has NEVER been a problem. I don`t know the caliber of the places you have worked but I have always worked at top shops, and experience and the experts have always proven this out. You try to remove a simi trailer lug that has been on the road for a year with out anti sieze and it is not a fruitfull experence. With it it is a breeze. I have never had a problem with overtightening any bolts but it could just be experience and feel is different. Also most people do not use a hand lug to tighten wheels unless it is a flat. Do it yourselfers may but they are a small minoriy compaired to the population as a whole. As I said I have done thousands over the years and never had a single problem, or heard of one, that wasn`t caused by another error. It is indesdensible in a rust belt shop. KB SignatureThunder Snake #9 "Protect" your rights or "lose" them. > >> > That's the best way to snap off the new ones that I know of... You > >> > are not supposed to lube lug nuts, the studs can stretch and snap. [quoted text clipped - 72 lines] > Thunder Snake #9 > "Protect" your rights or "lose" them. So you are saying that 'You' are personally responsible for some of the tires that keep falling off the Semi Tractor Trailers?????!!!! People are getting killed that way sir! I guess I 'really' don't need to say any more about the dangers of anti-seize on lug nuts in this thread do I? Wow. I will always post the counter and correct way do do lugs when some other person says to use a lubricant or anti-seize just for this reason. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >> >> > That's the best way to snap off the new ones that I know of... >> >> > You are not supposed to lube lug nuts, the studs can stretch and [quoted text clipped - 97 lines] > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) if you can`t admit your wrong its your problem not mine. I stated that out of thousands of lugs done with anti sieze, NONE have had a problem. That includes all the simi trailer ones, all trackable by the way, have not had one come loose or off when torqued to spec. The ones you see comming off are bud wheels or improply torqued other ones. So save your I am better than you even though the facts prove other wise, for some one that believes you have super intelect far above your experence. When the factory, the makers of anti sieze, and shop owners, (get it, liable persons) all agree it is a good idea, for some reason I am not going to put much stock in your OPINION KB SignatureThunder Snake #9 "Protect" your rights or "lose" them. > >> >> > That's the best way to snap off the new ones that I know of... > >> >> > You are not supposed to lube lug nuts, the studs can stretch and [quoted text clipped - 108 lines] > persons) all agree it is a good idea, for some reason I am not going to put > much stock in your OPINION KB Almost hate to put my dog in this fight, but for what it's worth, in my 40 years of wrenching I have always advocated using anti seize (not lubricant) on lug bolts along with proper tightening. It sure has made life easier and never caused a problem for me. Can't say I ever did a double blind scientific study though, so I might be wrong. I have read manufacturer recomendations that advise against it, but then they also recomend only changing your oil every 7,500 miles. <grin> Please, no flames! Just my opinion. SignatureKevin Mouton Automotive Technology Instructor "If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy" Red Green It seems that there is more pros than cons for the use of an anti-seize agent on lug nuts. I had thought of the use oil on the studs, but knew it was a no no, anti-seize I had never thought of, but would not be afraid to use it - in a moderate sense. Here is a google search on the subject. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=anti+seize+for+lug+nuts I think I will get a jug of it to just keep on hand, and to use on my corn flakes.:--) >mho >ve >D r i v e / E a t L e s s - $ a v e M o n e y Why guess and go out and kill yourself or someone else? Just check with the maker of your vehicle and see what they recommend. These so called 'pro's' on this group are saying the 'winny' (sic) engineers don't know what they are talking about when they say to mount wheel lug nuts dry. These 'pros' say 'experience' says different than the engineers and there is just no way it's 'their' anti-seized tires falling off the trucks.... Mike > It seems that there is more pros than cons for the use of an anti-seize > agent on lug nuts. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > >D r i v e / E a t L e s s - $ a v e M o n e y > Why guess and go out and kill yourself or someone else? > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > engineers don't know what they are talking about when they say to mount > wheel lug nuts dry. Well, here is the problem: If a manufacturer or a engineer recommend a lubricant on wheel studs then some idiot is going to come along and overtighten and cause a dangerous situation which could be blamed on the company. On the other hand rust and corrosion on lug bolts/nuts causes many more dangerous situations but rust is not the fault or responsibility of the manufacturer and therefore they have no interest in addressing that problem. They no they won't get sued if the wheels rust on or even fall off due to rust Personally, I've been using marine grease on lug-nuts for 40 years and never had one that I tightened come loose or break. I learned that trick from an old mechanic who had been doing it for probably 50 years before that. You by contrast, have no (as in nada, zip, none) personal experience or evidence to back up the claims you are making about the dangers of using lubricants on wheel fastener threads. The only thing you have said is that if you were to use it you would be twisting off the lugnuts when tightening. This is probably true. I strongly advise you do not use any substance on wheel fasteners. Better yet, get someone else to tighten your lugnuts for you. > These 'pros' say 'experience' says different than the engineers and > there is just no way it's 'their' anti-seized tires falling off the > trucks.... I've seen many stripped, sheared and occasionally missing wheel fasteners. Absolutely none of these had anti-seize applied and that was not ever the cause. In almost all cases rust was the root cause. Should I conclude that the failure to use anti-seize is what caused these dangerous occurrences? -jim > > Why guess and go out and kill yourself or someone else? > > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > in addressing that problem. They no they won't get sued if the wheels > rust on or even fall off due to rust I haven't run into that problem since my vehicles started using cap nuts that keep the water out on the wheels. I also don't see anything wrong with coating the exposed threads with grease 'after' the nut is on.... > Personally, I've been using marine grease on lug-nuts for 40 years and > never had one that I tightened come loose or break. I learned that trick > from an old mechanic who had been doing it for probably 50 years before > that. You by contrast, have no (as in nada, zip, none) personal > experience or evidence to back up the claims you are making about the > dangers of using lubricants on wheel fastener threads. My first job changing tires in a garage shop was in 1968. My last job in a garage shop was in 1996. I have worked in shops coast to coast and have 'never' seen lube recommended for tire lugs. The only thing > you have said is that if you were to use it you would be twisting off > the lugnuts when tightening. This is probably true. I strongly advise > you do not use any substance on wheel fasteners. Better yet, get someone > else to tighten your lugnuts for you. 'I' personally have used a torque wrench for years. > > These 'pros' say 'experience' says different than the engineers and > > there is just no way it's 'their' anti-seized tires falling off the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > I conclude that the failure to use anti-seize is what caused these > dangerous occurrences? Lack of maintenance more likely, but rust is just plain nasty and is the cause for lots of part replacements and premature failures. Doing something dangerous because you don't want to have to upkeep the vehicle isn't really smart in my mind. Like I have said to others, when in doubt about a life threatening issue. Phone up your vehicle maker and ask. Lawrence just posted Ford's take. Dry lugs! Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > Lack of maintenance more likely, but rust is just plain nasty and is the > cause for lots of part replacements and premature failures. Doing > something dangerous because you don't want to have to upkeep the vehicle > isn't really smart in my mind. You keep calling it dangerous. You have no evidence of this. That's being dishonest. The fact is spinning the rusted lugnuts off rusted studs does compromise the integrity of the threads. Doing this repeatedly over many years with a small loss of metal each time can lead to a dangerous situation where the wheel fasteners no longer perform as well as they should. But if a 1000 wheels fall off due to the effects of rust the manufactures are not terribly concerned - they are not the ones spreading salt on the roads its not their fault. Even if they were concerned their is nothing they can do. If they would recommend using a substance on the lugnuts and only 1 wheel fell off instead of a 1000 they would have opened themselves up to a lawsuit. Your claims that the manufacturers recommendations are based on what is dangerous and what is not is based on assumptions and supposition. > Like I have said to others, when in doubt about a life threatening > issue. Phone up your vehicle maker and ask. Follow the manufacturers recommendations. -jim > Lawrence just posted Ford's take. Dry lugs! > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) only car I remember having that EVEr had lug snapping or stripping problems, was my dad's 1976 Dodge Aspen wagon he got it with 7,300 miles in 1977, and the first time I rotated the tires, (probably 7,500 miles), one of the left front lug nuts stripped, and the lugnut "freewheeled" on the stud. had to take a hammer and chisel to it to get the nut off. then we had several studs break on the right side of the car.... usually when we were getting new tires, and usually at Firestone. car was totalled in 1985, with 53,000 miles on it. front hub never had to come off, so left front stud was still stripped, and 4 nuts on that wheel.... and probably 5 or 6 of the right side studs had to be replaced over the life of the car. > Almost hate to put my dog in this fight, but for what it's worth, in my 40 > years of wrenching I have always advocated using anti seize (not lubricant) [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Please, no flames! Just my opinion. what torque do you use then? If GM calls for 100 foot pounds for my wife's Beretta's lugnuts, I've always assumed that's dry. I _like_ the idea of antiseize... > > Almost hate to put my dog in this fight, but for what it's worth, in my 40 > > years of wrenching I have always advocated using anti seize (not lubricant) [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > wife's Beretta's lugnuts, I've always assumed that's dry. I _like_ the > idea of antiseize... Because of the extremes of opinion on this group with the free advise, (you get what you paid for) I would highly recommend you simply phone up GM and ask them. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >>> Almost hate to put my dog in this fight, but for what it's worth, in my 40 >>> years of wrenching I have always advocated using anti seize (not lubricant) [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > (you get what you paid for) I would highly recommend you simply phone up > GM and ask them. I responded to Kevin because of his credentials. But before I used anything but factory torque specs I'd do extra research... :) >>>> Almost hate to put my dog in this fight, but for what it's worth, >>>> in my 40 years of wrenching I have always advocated using anti [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > But before I used anything but factory torque specs I'd do extra > research... :) I have stuck to the recomended torque specs. testing on my own did not show enough difference to be that important. Never warped a rotor or any other problems associated with overtightening at factory specs. KB SignatureThunder Snake #9 "Protect" your rights or "lose" them. > > Almost hate to put my dog in this fight, but for what it's worth, in my 40 > > years of wrenching I have always advocated using anti seize (not lubricant) [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > wife's Beretta's lugnuts, I've always assumed that's dry. I _like_ the > idea of antiseize... Instead of getting many different opinions just call the local Chevy dealer and ask them how to avoid busting yer nuts (lug nuts). > > Almost hate to put my dog in this fight, but for what it's worth, in my 40 > > years of wrenching I have always advocated using anti seize (not lubricant) [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > wife's Beretta's lugnuts, I've always assumed that's dry. I _like_ the > idea of antiseize... I have had good success with using the factory recommended torque. No stripped threads or broken lugs so far. I might add that the factory specs pertain to the wheels that came on the car from the factory and some aftermarket wheels require different torque, maybe even retorquing after 500 miles driving. The truth is, many years back I never torqued the wheels on, but back then everything was a lot beefier and you didn't have the problem of warped rotors like you do now days. Probably since about 1885, I always use a torque wrench and the factory torque specs where possible, even with never seize. On vehicles and trailers with no available torque spec I use my better judgment and a torque wrench. Usually go 80' lbs for 7/16' lugs and 100' lbs for 1/2" lugs. For 9/16" I use 125 - 140'lbs. Now here's the kicker.... I teach automotive technology at a State technical college, and I do not let my students use never seize on lug bolts. I am required to teach them to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. They must properly clean and torque the nuts with no lubrication unless otherwise recommended by the manufacturer. My knowledge and experience tells me one thing, but my job requires another. The only lugs I use never seize on are on my own vehicles, or on vehicles who's owner agrees to the benefit. When I ran a service department, I would not let the techs put never seize unless the customer requested it. Truth is, you can't go wrong torquing them on clean and dry. The bitch is later when you have to get them off the rusted lugs. I guess the only way to satisfy everyone would be to torque them on clean and dry, then remove, clean, and retorque them at least once per year to prevent them from rusting on solid. <grin> SignatureKevin Mouton Automotive Technology Instructor "If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy" Red Green >>what torque do you use then? If GM calls for 100 foot pounds for my >>wife's Beretta's lugnuts, I've always assumed that's dry. I _like_ the [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > and dry, then remove, clean, and retorque them at least once per year to > prevent them from rusting on solid. <grin> sounds good to me. I'm just a diy'er - was thinking of being a mechanic, but the computer stuff pays better and it's a lot nicer at -40 being at a desk job... I never used to torque my wheels on either until I had my old (26 year old) Buick start to randomly lose wheel studs... and then the one time I didn't use a torque wrench on my Jimmy I had the wheel come loose... so I always torque them on because I'm obviously NOT capable of being close enough to 100 just by feel. I usually have the wheels off once a year to do some other maintenance or check the brakes or something, so if the lugs are clean I don't worry about it and just put them on dry. I don't know if the nuts are different on newer cars, but they don't seem to rust like my old cars did. Ray 90-100 pounds, seems to be the recommend torque pressure, I go for 90, getting them too tight might warp the rotors. and if you are caught out in the hot sun with a flat tire with only a "L" lug nut(jack handle) wrench, it ain't fun to have to remove *seized* nuts. that might be the time - anti-seize - comes in handy. >mho >ve >D r i v e / E a t L e s s - $ a v e M o n e y > My brother came home last night, claiming he can't drive his car > anymore because two of the lug nuts broke and two are missing (all on > the same tire). How could this happen? I've never heard of them > breaking before, and two falling off? Is it most likely due to > something he did and just isn't fessing up to it? How does he know they broke...were there pieces on the ground? If he didn't see any pieces of lug nut then one of two things happened: 1. They were not tightened properly and literally fell off the wheel. 2. Somebody was trying to steal a wheel. Difficult to do if the car isn't jacked up though, so my vote would be for number 1. The last time that happened to us the garage forgot to tighten up the wheel after fixing a flat. The nuts worked loose and several fell off, then the last two couldn't take it anymore and snapped. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > My brother came home last night, claiming he can't drive his car > anymore because two of the lug nuts broke and two are missing (all on > the same tire). How could this happen? I've never heard of them > breaking before, and two falling off? Is it most likely due to > something he did and just isn't fessing up to it? > My brother came home last night, claiming he can't drive his car > anymore because two of the lug nuts broke and two are missing (all on > the same tire). How could this happen? I've never heard of them > breaking before, and two falling off? Is it most likely due to > something he did and just isn't fessing up to it? been there, had that. overtightened... snap... or undertightened... and when the wheel starts to wobble, it'll snap the stud off. aluminum wheels sometimes need to be retorqued... or if it's an old 60's Dodge they used left hand thread... and someone snapped them trying to steal the wheels. Usually about $1 per stud to replace if you do it at home. Fairly cheap if you pay a mechanic. You can still drive - slowly - to the garage, just make sure the remaining nuts are tight. > My brother came home last night, claiming he can't drive his car > anymore because two of the lug nuts broke and two are missing (all on > the same tire). How could this happen? I've never heard of them > breaking before, and two falling off? Is it most likely due to > something he did and just isn't fessing up to it? I assume your car has wheel studs and lug nuts. Some cars use lug bolts instead (lug bolts screw into threaded holes in the hub), but I don't think this is true in your case. Over the years I've had the wheel studs fail for a several reasons. I've also had lug nuts come loose. Possible causes: - Lug nuts improperly tightened. I was driving my Jensen Healey on an expressway when I noticed something fly off the front left of the car. A minute or so later, I noticed it again. I pulled off the road and found that two (of four) lug nuts had come off the left front wheel. I borrowed one lug nut from the rear wheel to put on the front (now had two wheels with three of four) and limped home. This car had strange aluminum lug nuts. I had recently bought new tires. I assume the shop was overly cautious when tightening the nuts. From then on I always checked the lug nuts with a torque wrench whenever a wheel was removed. - Wheel stud twisted off because someone over tightened the lug nut. Idiots in shops with big air guns can do this. - Wheel stud twisted off because lug nuts were cross threaded. My SO had this problem. A shop cross threaded two of five lug nuts on one wheel. They jammed and were not actually tighten all the way either. When this was noticed, we tried to remove the nuts and twisted the wheel studs off in the process of removing the jammed nuts. - Lug nuts rusted to wheel studs. I have twisted off more than one wheel stud because the lug nuts were severely rusted in place. - Wheel stud fatigue failure. Over the years I have had a couple of wheel studs fail for no obvious reason. One day everything looks fine, the next day the nut is gone and the wheel stud is sheared off at the wheel interface. I assume that this as a corrosion induced fatigue failure. Wheels studs are not difficult to replace. You bang out the old stud and insert a new one in its place. Any tire store can handle this job. Ed "brebers" wrote: My brother came home last night can't drive his car because two of the lug nuts broke and two are missing (all on the same tire). How could this happen? ____________________________________________ Possible cause: Lug nuts improperly tightened. Idiots in shops with big air guns can do this. Now I always check the lug nuts with a torque wrench whenever a wheel is removed. ____________________________________________ Five (of eight) studs snapped on a rear wheel of my motor home 200 miles after new tires were installed by Sears in Fairfield, California. The installer had bragged that lug nuts were torqued at the proper 125 ft-lb while using her clicking torque wrench. I had seen the installer run the lug nuts on with an air gun, then apply a torque wrench until it clicked. But I remembered that the lug nuts had never moved under the torque wrench. Then I realized that the installer had been too lazy to take the time to make the final tightening with the torque wrench. Instead, she had blasted on the lug nuts to some unknown excess torque and had applied the torque wrench afterward just for show. Now I always check the lug nuts with a torque wrench whenever a wheel is removed, and I try to watch technicians installing my tires, and I haven't shopped at Sears in fifteen years. Rodan. I was taught to use anti-seize on tire lugs. Been using it since I was a little boy hanging around Dad's shop. Dad has had the shop since 1959 and has always used anti-seize. There are lots of ways of doing things, this is how I was taught. Gm would probably say to not use it, but I know a few of the techs at Reichert Cheverlolet and they use it. |
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