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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / May 2006Water Pump Bolts
Once I get the broken water pump bolt removed from my 93 F150 5.0 liter... the next question is what do I use for a replacement? I'm assuming it's a Grade 5 type bolt - is that correct? Do I need to go to a dealer or will any Grade 5 bolt (of the right size obviously_) work? > Once I get the broken water pump bolt removed from my 93 F150 5.0 liter... > the next question is what do I use for a replacement? > > I'm assuming it's a Grade 5 type bolt - is that correct? Probably. If it isn't, it won't hurt to use a hardened bolt. > Do I need to go to a dealer or will any Grade 5 bolt (of the right size > obviously_) work? Unless it appears special (locating shoulder or similar) any bolt should work. The trick is getting the exact correct length as I assume it's a blind hole that it's threading into. Is there another bolt that you've removed that you can match up? i.e. are all the water pump mounting bolts the same length? good luck nate well, I don't know about you, but I would take one of the other bolts as a model, and match it up, that is if you didn't have to tap new threads. If you did use a tap, match the tap size with a grade five stud. grade 5 is a fine thread and is available at auto part supply houses. one mistake made by shade-tree mechanics is that they exercise more brawn than brain when it comes to tightening bolt, nuts. In lieu of a torque tool, run the bolt up to where you can't loosen it with the fingers, and then a .25 turn or less should be sufficient. when using a gasket you might check later for a bit of tightening, if a leak develops. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN. when using a liquid gasket - don't tighten until the liquid has dried sufficiently, let it body up a bit for a good seal. >mho >ve >D r i v e / E a t L e s s - $ a v e M o n e y <snip> > In lieu of a torque tool, run the bolt up to where you can't loosen it > with the fingers, and then a .25 turn or less should be sufficient. <snip> >>mho >>vƒe > >>D r i v e / E a t L e s s - $ a v e M o n e y Wow! That is GREAT ADVICE!!! *IF* you want your car to fall to pieces as it rolls down the road. 1/4 turn on an oil filter is good. 1/4 turn on a waterpump pulley, harmonic balancer, headbolt, brake caliper bolt, Valve cover, lugnut...Damn near anything on a car, 'aint gonna get it. I have two words for ya - Torque Wrench. Then, after a few years of successful practice in a professional setting (I.E. every day use), you may be able to judge by feel how tight you need to go. For the weekender, under the shade tree, a torque wrench and a factory service manual are your best friends. (Mumbles while shaking head) 1/4 turn!!! sheesh! > well, I don't know about you, but I would take one of the other bolts as > a model, and match it up, that is if you didn't have to tap new threads. > > If you did use a tap, match the tap size with a grade five stud. > > grade 5 is a fine thread and is available at auto part supply houses. Nope, thread pitch has nothing to do with "grade." SAE bolts come in Grade 2, Grade 5, and Grade 8, which have to do with the strength of the metal and how it is treated after the threads are rolled. This can be determined by looking at the heads; Grade 2 = no marks, grade 5 = three marks, grade 8 = six marks. They also come in UNC (coarse) and UNF (fine) which determine the thread pitch. Metric bolts commonly come in 8.8 (roughly equivalent to Grade 5) and 10.9 (roughly equivalent to Grade 8) in various thread pitches. I would ASSume that a F*rd 302 would use SAE hardware being an older design, but I have no experience with them, and it could have been metrified over the years. Best to check and make sure. > one mistake made by shade-tree mechanics is that they exercise more > brawn than brain when it comes to tightening bolt, nuts. true... > In lieu of a torque tool, run the bolt up to where you can't loosen it > with the fingers, and then a .25 turn or less should be sufficient. huhwha? > when using a gasket you might check later for a bit of tightening, if a > leak develops. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN. > > when using a liquid gasket - don't tighten until the liquid has dried > sufficiently, let it body up a bit for a good seal. just use a torque wrench if you're not sure... no sense screwing around. nate  Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel > well, I don't know about you, but I would take one of the other bolts as > a model, and match it up, that is if you didn't have to tap new threads. > > If you did use a tap, match the tap size with a grade five stud. You've obviously never had the timing chain cover off of a 5 liter Ford. he can't use a stud in place of the bolt, he'll never get the timing cover back on without munging the pan gasket. > grade 5 is a fine thread and is available at auto part supply houses. Thread pitch has nothing to do with bolt grade. > one mistake made by shade-tree mechanics is that they exercise more > brawn than brain when it comes to tightening bolt, nuts. > > In lieu of a torque tool, run the bolt up to where you can't loosen it > with the fingers, and then a .25 turn or less should be sufficient. Better advice would be to use thread sealer on the bolt threads so coolant doesn't wick down the bolt causing the exact problem that he's been battling, but you'd have said so if you had ever actually worked on one of these engines. As for "in lieu of a torque tool;" if you don't have the proper tools to do the job and you're not willing to procure them, you don't have any business attempting the job to begin with. > when using a gasket you might check later for a bit of tightening, if a > leak develops. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN. Not an issue if the proper procedures are followed. > when using a liquid gasket - don't tighten until the liquid has dried > sufficiently, let it body up a bit for a good seal. Not an issue if proper procedures are followed. Thanks. I do have a Torque Wrench so properly tightening everything shouldn't be a problem. I do have the other bolts that I can use to match up the new one. > > well, I don't know about you, but I would take one of the other bolts as > > a model, and match it up, that is if you didn't have to tap new threads. [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > Not an issue if proper procedures are followed. > I do have the other bolts that I can use to match up the new one. I have a picture here that I think I got from www.napaonline.com I labelled it "Balkamp water pump stud kit". It shows 2 bolts; one silvery "normal" bolt, the other is one of Ford's black double-ended things with the hex part-way down and different threads on each end. Item#: BK 6051340 Attributes: Water pump stud kit Additional Contents: 2 Studs Length: 5" & 5.375" Thread size: 5/16"-18 Type of packaging: Carded Hmm, I will have to check that out, that might be the ticket for an alternator strap mount on a Studebaker (or could be cut down to work for same) this is why I pay attention to discussions involving cars other than my own! nate > > I do have the other bolts that I can use to match up the new one. > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > Thread size: 5/16"-18 > Type of packaging: Carded > Hmm, I will have to check that out, that might be the ticket for an > alternator strap mount on a Studebaker (or could be cut down to work > for same) this is why I pay attention to discussions involving cars > other than my own! Um, has anyone even bothered to check the dealer price on a replacement bolt? It could be cheaper than getting a bolt kit and you would have the correct one. Ted "Ted Mittelstaedt" <tedm@toybox.placo.com> wrote in message > Um, has anyone even bothered to check the dealer price on a replacement > bolt? It could be cheaper than getting a bolt kit and you would have the > correct one. > > Ted Price is not usually a big issue on bolts like this. Most good parts stores (like our local NAPA store) have bins with every sort of bolt, stud, thread, and grade. You can usually match them up easily. Trying to deal with a dealership on ANY issue can drive you nuts. The fiveiron@webtv.net entity posted thusly: >grade 5 is a fine thread and is available at auto part supply houses. Hmm? Grade denotes strength, not thread. fiveiron@webtv.net wrote in article <8724-44626967-50@storefull-3312.bay.webtv.net>... >>> grade 5 is a fine thread and is available at auto part supply houses. Yet another fine bit of technical mis-information from the man who is unencumbered by the thought process...... Grade 5 is available in coarse and fine threads. >>> one mistake made by shade-tree mechanics is that they exercise more brawn than brain when it comes to tightening bolt, nuts. I think the BIGGEST mistake any could make would be to take your advice seriously!!!! > well, I don't know about you, but I would take one of the other bolts as > a model, and match it up, that is if you didn't have to tap new threads. [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > >D r i v e / E a t L e s s - $ a v e M o n e y This is a response to all of your posts, not this one specifically... Do you even know where the ignition key goes in a car? Fun answer to follow..... Toyota MDT in MO |
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