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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / June 2006A/C Condenser R&R
Leaking A/C Condenser on my 97 Corolla. I can see where a damn rock hit it and started the slow leak over the past 2 years. Finally it won't hold a charge. I've removed the Condenser and Dryer according to Haynes. I'm waiting for delivery of new components. However, Haynes states "Fill New Condenser with 2-3 oz refrigerant oil, then reinstall all AC lines". I'm reading elsewhere that you should evac/vaccum test the system before adding anything. Furthermore, The A/C oil PAC 46 is sold both in low LP charge type cans, as well as in pourable liquid cans. Most say to evan/vac test first, then install oil & refrigerant, but Haynes says different. Who is correct? >Leaking A/C Condenser on my 97 Corolla. I can see where a damn rock hit > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >LP charge type cans, as well as in pourable liquid cans. Most say >to evan/vac test first, then install oil & refrigerant, Evacuate, repair, put under vaccum and finally recharge -- nothing else makes any sense at all.. If you want to pour the oil in before you put the system under vacuum that will be OK. Its unlikely much of it will be pulled out. Don www.donsautomotive.com > but Haynes says different. Who is correct? I always pour the oil in before evacuation. I suspect they say this so the condenser gets a fresh coat of oil on the first start-up. Make sure to pull a vacuum for a minimum of 30 min. Sometimes you have to let the system sit a few minutes, then evacuate it again to remove all the air. An extra step would be to charge the system with nitrogen after vacuuming, then vacuuming again. This is the best way to do it if the system has been open.  Signaturecorning_d3 http://www.automotiveforums.com I will just pour it in the condensor first. Thanks for your help. I was going to take it to a shop to evac/vacuum test, since I don't have the equipment. You sound as if you do this yourself. Could I rent a vacuum pump & gauges somewhere and just do it myself? I don't think a shop would charge alot just for evac & test. I was going to put in the R134a myself through low pressure..3 cans should do it. > I always pour the oil in before evacuation. I suspect they say this so > the condenser gets a fresh coat of oil on the first start-up. Make sure [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > http://www.automotiveforums.com > I will just pour it in the condensor first. Thanks for your help. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > shop would charge alot just for evac & test. I was going to put in the > R134a myself through low pressure..3 cans should do it. Around here several of the larger Auto Zone stores will "loan" a quality vacuum pump. They'll imprint your credit card for the entire value of the pump as a deposit, and tear it up when you return it. Great deal! Still, it might be easier to just have a shop do it. They can pull the vacuum and leave it ready for you to add the refrigerant. I have two strong recommendations: 1. Whether you evacuate the system yourself or have it done in a shop, buy or borrow a set of manifold guages so you can be sure what's going on in the system as you charge it. 2. Your statement that "3 cans should do it" is troubling. The proper way to charge the system is with the correct amount of R-134. Pressure readings on the guages will only give you a general idea of the charge, especially for those like us with limited experience. It's probably a lot less than 3 cans, but the only way to know is to get the factory spec (in ounces) for your exact vehicle. Call the parts or service desk at a dealer to find out. If you undercharge the system, it will cool poorly or not at all. If you overcharge it, it will cool poorly or not at all. See the problem? Wear safey glasses when handling the R-134!!! Good luck, Tom None of the Autozones around me have vacuum pumps for loan a tool. Lucky you. Renting a pump & buying manifold gauge would cost close to $100. Yes, I think I will just take it to a shop for evac & test & refill. Renting the pump and buying the manifold guage will cost about as much as having a shop do it so nothing gained there. I wasn't exact on the amount of R134 since I haven't gotten to that point yet, so I just briefly read it. > 1. Whether you evacuate the system yourself or have it done in a shop, > buy or borrow a set of manifold guages so you can be sure what's going [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > Good luck, > Tom > None of the Autozones around me have vacuum pumps for loan a tool. > Lucky you. Bummer. It's been a year or two since I used one so it's possible they quit the program. > Renting a pump & buying manifold gauge would cost close to $100. > > Yes, I think I will just take it to a shop for evac & test & refill. > Renting the pump and buying the manifold guage will cost about as much > as having a shop do it so nothing > gained there. Except that you have the guages for future use. (any excuse to buy a tool, right?) Nonetheless, for the dollars, it's safer and many fewer headaches to let the shop do it. I have the guages and experience with three or four successful evacuation/recharges and I'd probably still be willing to let a shop do it for $100 just because of the hassle. Good luck, Tom > I will just pour it in the condensor first. Thanks for your help. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > shop would charge alot just for evac & test. I was going to put in the > R134a myself through low pressure..3 cans should do it. Oh yeah... Take the opportunity to add some flourescent leak marker in the new charge. You can get R-134 cans with this already in it. As amatuers we are more likely to make a mistake during assembly that will lead to a leak. This could save you hours in troubleshooting if that happens. DAMHIKT!!!! Mike, Because you system has been out of freon for a while you need to vaccum the system before charging the system in order to be sure of the system is dry without moisture. > Leaking A/C Condenser on my 97 Corolla. I can see where a damn rock hit > [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > different. Who is correct? |
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