Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / Maintenance and Repair / June 2006

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

cable swaging?

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
david.margrave@gmail.com - 06 Jun 2006 23:45 GMT
I had a power window unit on my car go out.  When I opened it up it
turns out the worm drive had chewed up the cable that raises/lowers the
window.  Now, I'm thinking it's a shame to junk a part that just needs
a new steel cable, but of course only the entire assembly, motor and
all, is sold as a replacement part.

I'm wondering about what the fittings on the cables are called.  I
think the term is swaging, but anyhow the cables are terminated in
cylinder-shaped block whose longitudinal axes are oriented
perpendicularly to the cable's longitudinal axis, if that makes sense.
there is no loop in the cable end.   I have looked on line for cable
swaging tools but what I have found seems to be for putting loops in
the ends of cables and crimping the free end to the cable.

These swages or whatever they are called engage in circular-shaped
recesses in the worm gear and in the metal bracket that attaches to the
window.  Does anyone know what the proper term for these things is and
whether the tooling is something affordable to the amateur?

thanks,

dave
david.margrave@gmail.com - 07 Jun 2006 00:00 GMT
image uploaded to dropbox

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/cable_swage.jpg

thanks,
dave

> I had a power window unit on my car go out.  When I opened it up it
> turns out the worm drive had chewed up the cable that raises/lowers the
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> dave
Paul Hovnanian P.E. - 07 Jun 2006 03:50 GMT
> image uploaded to dropbox
>
> http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/cable_swage.jpg

That looks a lot like the ends on a bicycle brake or shift cable. A well
equipped cycle shop might have the swaging tools to make up odd length
cables.

Signature

Paul Hovnanian     mailto:Paul@Hovnanian.com
------------------------------------------------------------------
The ark was skippered by amateurs, the Titanic was skippered by
professionals.

Bart D. Hull - 10 Jun 2006 23:46 GMT
The end you are showing is not swaged. You could take the end that you
have and use a soldering iron to remove the old piece. (Sometimes the
piece is just pot metal and the whole thing melts.

A brass barrel with a hole drilled through it is put in the end of the
cable and dipped in a solder pot. Don't try to use a soldering iron or
normal solder, you won't get the part hot enough and normal solder is
too soft. High tin solder (80/20)is the right stuff. You could use a
ceramic bowl and heat the solder until it is well melted, you just need
the heat transfer capability of enough solder to fully engulf the
fitting. Use rosin flux to clean the barrel and cable, no acid flux or
it will break very soon.

I used to make up all sorts of cables at my parents motorcycle shop. I
don't know of any place in town that actually does it anymore. My
brother still has all the equipment and has me make cables occasionally.

My test for a hand brake cable was to try to smash the lever to the bar
with both hands. If it didn't pull the end off it was good. You could
pull the end off with soft solder. I figured in a panic some superhuman
strength would be trying to pull those brakes with all their might.
Never had a cable break.

Try this link for the parts you need. Flanders motorcycle parts has all
the cable making stuff you might need. >
http://www.flandersco.com/action.lasso?-search&-database=_Flan_Levers.fp5&-layou
t=Cables1&-Format=FlanCableResultsNP.html&-Error=FlanCableError.html&-Operator=C
ontains&Type=End&Catagory=CablePart


Bart

Bart D. Hull
bdhull-nospam@inficad.com
Tempe, Arizona

Check  http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/engine.html
for my Subaru Engine Conversion
Check  http://www.inficad.com/~bdhull/fuselage.html
for Tango II I'm building.

Remove -nospam to reply via email.

> image uploaded to dropbox
>
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>>
>> dave
Ernie Leimkuhler - 07 Jun 2006 00:18 GMT
> I had a power window unit on my car go out.  When I opened it up it
> turns out the worm drive had chewed up the cable that raises/lowers the
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> dave

The metal piece that gets swaged onto the cable can be a "stop-nut" or a
"sleeve".

A stop-nut is used when the cable goes through a hole and needs to be
prevented from pulling back out.
A sleeve is used to form an eye on the end of the cable, by swaging 2
cables side by side.
Normally you wrap the cable around a "thimble" before swaging the eye
shut.
The Thimble acts to hold the eye open, and distribute the load so the
cable can hold maximum load.

If the end fitting is threaded or is a small clevis then you will need
to get some marine hardware used on cable rigging for sailboats.

If there is a marine supply store in your area they should be able to
make up a cable for you.

By the way, if you have a choice of cables...
Finer wire strands means greater flexibility.
Coarser wire strands means greater wear resistance, and longevity.

Signature

Welding Instructor - South Seattle Comm. Coll.
                  - Divers Institute of Technology
CWI/CWE  
WABO Examiner

Tony - 07 Jun 2006 00:49 GMT
I would try brazing an end on for a simple application such as this.

Tony

> I had a power window unit on my car go out.  When I opened it up it
> turns out the worm drive had chewed up the cable that raises/lowers the
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> dave
Al Bundy - 07 Jun 2006 12:26 GMT
> I had a power window unit on my car go out.  When I opened it up it
> turns out the worm drive had chewed up the cable that raises/lowers the
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> dave
That end in your picture is exactly the same as a bike brake cable
available for under $2 at most stores. I have used them to make
accelerator cables. When I need to make my own special end, I usually
solder it on with stainless solder.
Ron Thompson - 08 Jun 2006 03:05 GMT
erm for these things is and
>> whether the tooling is something affordable to the amateur?
>>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> accelerator cables. When I need to make my own special end, I usually
> solder it on with stainless solder.

I have used regular solder to attach copper tubing like this. My cable was
galvanized, so regular solder was all that was needed.
Signature


Ron Thompson
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center, USA

http://www.plansandprojects.com
My hobby pages are here:
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is
to fill the world with fools.
--Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903

 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.