Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / General Car Topics / May 2004

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

coil ohm readings, LT and HT

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Lez Hammans - 18 May 2004 15:51 GMT
I'm not sure if this is the correct Newsgroup for this question but here
goes.

Could someone tell me how critical the manual-specified ohm ranges are for
the LT and HT resistances at the coil and would I be right in thinking that
the tolerances of the LT range is less because it is a smaller measurement?

On the existing coil that's fitted to my Fiat Tipo 1.4 the LT measurement
should be between 0.666 and 0.805 ohms (from memory!) but reads 1.3 whereas
the HT reading falls within the quoted higher range. The 'new' (breakers)
coil I'm thinking of fitting has a good LT reading but is higher on the HT
side.

The symptoms are: the ignition system stops delivering a spark within a few
miles (dies at the lights) but then returns to normal after 'a rest' -
presumably when the faulty component has had a chance to cool down - and the
car runs well till next time.

I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.

Lez
Mike Romain - 18 May 2004 20:18 GMT
Your LT reading is double, the coil is fried.

If the 'new' one is also out of spec, don't bother with it.  It will
give you the same grief shortly.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

> I'm not sure if this is the correct Newsgroup for this question but here
> goes.
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> Lez
Lez Hammans - 19 May 2004 12:57 GMT
Thanks a lot Mike. I've taken your advice and am going for a (real) new one.
Should've done that in the first place!

Thanks mate!

Lez

> Your LT reading is double, the coil is fried.
>
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
> >
> > Lez
Lez Hammans - 21 May 2004 04:47 GMT
Further to my original posting about coil resistances, this query results
from the fact that, though my old car (G-reg Fiat Tipo 1.4 DGT) would work
perfectly for most of the time, every now and again (sometimes 3 times
within 50 miles then perhaps not for 200 miles) it would run rough and
'peck' for a few yards as if trying to stall, and/or die at a roundabout or
set of lights. Sometimes it would key straight away after that, sometimes it
would need to 'rest' for a few minutes before it would start again. Bloody
inconvenient.

I'd replaced HT leads, distributor cap, rotor arm, spark plugs etc. hoping
to cure the fault but, when it continued, I'd assumed it was fuel
starvation - carb needed cleaning or a vapour lock or something - until I
broke down again last weekend. The recovery guy showed it to definitely be
an ignition fault (no spark for a while then it started sparking again and
fired up). He thought the fault might be in the ignition module on the side
of the distributor.

As a garage could end up charging me more than what the car's worth to find
the fault, I thought it would be cheaper to replace the unit - and, while
I'm at it, the coil - which would leave virtually everything on the ignition
side as new. Stupidly, not realising I didn't need to, I took the
distributor out (but I can sort out the timing later). Having made the
mistake I thought I might as well take it home and clean it up. I took off
the rotor arm and plastic protector and, when I looked inside, I found a
greasy bit of black metal spring-clip floating about! I can see it's snapped
off from an 'L-shaped' clip that is riveted to the top inner steel plate.
The loose bit should go down onto a short plastic (I think) stem that meets
the slotted plastic rod that comes in from the vacuum unit.

I can't really see the purpose of the clip - it doesn't look vital but it's
there - and it's obviously been broken for a while. Which means the car has
been starting and running okay with it broken off!

Not knowing much about distributors (apart from their purpose) could anybody
say, from reading this, whether the loose bit of clip could have been
creating an intermittent electrical short and causing the spark to fail?

I'd value your thoughts. Thanks -

Lez

> Thanks a lot Mike. I've taken your advice and am going for a (real) new one.
> Should've done that in the first place!
[quoted text clipped - 42 lines]
> > >
> > > Lez
Mike Romain - 22 May 2004 15:26 GMT
That sounds like something holding the vacuum advance in place.

This would be for high speed running and maybe idle depending on the
setup.

It shouldn't make it cut out.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

> Further to my original posting about coil resistances, this query results
> from the fact that, though my old car (G-reg Fiat Tipo 1.4 DGT) would work
[quoted text clipped - 88 lines]
> > > >
> > > > Lez
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.